Do you know if some websites offer Black Friday specials in auto parts ? I need some for my e90 and Mini.
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Do you know if some websites offer Black Friday specials in auto parts ? I need some for my e90 and Mini.
I think most usually do. Like ECST and bavAuto for example.
Going to be doing DrVanos soon.
Is there anything else that should be done in that area? Any sensors or anything?
I'm at 125k and driving 20k a year now.
I did Dr.vanos, vanos oil feed line, spark plugs, and valve cover gasket. Plus oil change.
Plugs were done 10k ago. VCG is on the list. Vanos feed line was done with my CCV.
Woot!
Anyone ever inspect and clean the cam sensor?Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Too early for pre-cat O2 sensors?
Done plugs? Clean MAF and DISA.
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I would say cam sensor is a no.
Are pre cat O2 sensors hiding behind the valve cover?
Yes on plugs.
DISA is less than a year old.
O2 sensors wires are snaked around the engine and you'll be moving the wires out of the way and you can't really get to them with the engine covers on. It is probably premature to do them though.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
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Ok. I think they're on my 150k to do list.
O2 sensors are technically a 100k item. Even if they don't throw codes, you could still get a fuel economy bump by replacing them.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
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Good to know. I have them on hand and plan to do soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
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Just as a side note, my BMW Master Tech friend recommended I only replace the pre-cat sensors because if I replace the post-cat ones it could potentially throw codes that the cats are badQuote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
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Which would be a good thing... not for our wallets though. :roflQuote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Mine are definitely on the verge of replacement.
Replacing only 2 instead of 4 is not good for our wallets? Am I missing something? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by alexandre
2......4...... it doesn't matter. Those O2 sendors are pricy
Last year I swapped out all 4 at once....Quote:
Originally Posted by cakM3
Needing to replace the cats to pass inspection is ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
What part of the VANOS makes the rattle?
Bearing spacersQuote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
For $250, this seems to be a good deal. Does anybody know the wheel size (16", 17", 18") ?
http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/4816376201.html
Those are 18x8 and 8.5 rears
It's an E92 wheel
http://www.bmwstylewheels.com/bmw/197
Thanks, I appreciate the info.
So I'm 100 miles away from home and my belts just grenaded. Car is parked. Very surprising given the fact that everything was replaced a little under 2 years ago.
What happens when a water pump or power steering pump goes bad ? Do they completely seize ? I noticed a pulley hissing noise that amplified before the failure. I wonder if it's because a component has gone bad or if it was simply from the bad belts.
Doubt it would seize. I'm betting very bad pulley or bad belt that was defective?Quote:
Originally Posted by alexandre
Have you ever changed the idler or tensioner pulleys? Those can spin in excess of 10k RPMs and can seize up
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...t-doityourselfQuote:
Originally Posted by Avetiso
I have a feeling the catastrophic option is what happened. My WP has 65k on it (was planning to replace in the spring)
Everything in the belt drive was new (< 2 years old) except the crankshaft, alternator and PS pulleys. WP has 65k but has a new pulley on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by terraphantm
Final plan of action is to have the car towed to my place and assess the damage down the line. Registered for a CAA (same as AAA) competitor that offers 5x 150 mi tows per year on top of the usual roadside assist benefits for ~$80 USD.
Is there a good resource for learning about fast-blinking turn signals (hyperflash?) caused by LED retrofits? I'm specifically interested in adding resistors in parallel with the LEDs somewhere. I've read bits and pieces from other uses here that hint at a way most people do the fix.
If your temperature gauge didn't indicate any WP failure, then your Idler or Tensioner pulley seized and burned the belt. Saw first hand how a seized AC compressor will destroy a belt (98 Dodge 1500). And that's how we found out that the compressor had failed after putting the new one on and turning it over. Hell of a noise and sparks.Quote:
Originally Posted by alexandre
Hope you get it squared away. Give all your components an inspection and see where your sticky wicket is.
No red zone, but it was 5 degrees F so it probably didn't get the time to go there. My temp gauge is recalibrated (red starts at 105-110C instead of 125.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
Just went to the car and removed the trashed belt to at least move the car to a safe location (it was cold and I drove 2 mins tops). Everything seemed fine, including the water pump - no coolant residue anywhere and it seemed to turn straight by hand. Other pulleys were turning fine with the expected resistance. PS pulley seemed a bit loose - could that be the culprit? I don't recall losing PS though.
I'm seriously startled by this.
I'm glad you and the car are ok Alex.
Anyone know what this is?
Attachment 17258
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The black piece? That is the piece they used to separate the ground wire from the harness and ground it properly. This was their fix for the taillight recall.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Here is the service bulletin.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs...1v438-4559.pdf
If it isn't what you are asking, then forget I said anything. :)
1.) How do you remove the hood emblem?
2.) are the grommets in there generally ok to reuse?
Use something soft and gentle to pry under it. And if you got an emblem kit it comes with new grommets. Otherwise I would get new ones.
Ok.
My dad had an extra emblem lying around, no grommets though. Thx
I've replaced the hood emblem on two different cars. The dealer recommended to use a plastic box strap (like this one) and it works nicely.
Just slide it under the hood emblem, one side at a time while pulling up. For the grommets, I reused the old ones without issues. GL.
Attachment 17266
Yes, thanks, sorry I should have been more descriptive (or pointed)! So these appear to have had the recall done (I bought the RYR rears separate). Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo
I thought you'd gotten a new chair!Quote:
Originally Posted by fredo
Easiest way I've foundQuote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Easiest way I've found is to use fishing line or the plastic strapping sometimes used when I receive shipped items.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
"No flamesuit required"
My dealer "performed the fix" for me and doesn't look like that at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo
I originally had the fix done by the PO the day I bought the car from him, well before any Service Bulletin came out for it. All he did was take out the ground wire, splice a connector on the end, and connect it to the "tab" in our tail light bulb carrier. When I went to the dealer to have the "fix" done, they had the car for an hour and said it was done. I checked it and it was pretty much untouched. I never received any new connectors (even though there was a hole burned through the ground pin on the harness connector) and the same cheapo fix is still in place today...
Since I already had the "fix" in place, they didn't do anything to it despite it still looking like a cheap repair. It's kind of annoying that I now have a burned hole through the harness connector and it will never be fixed by them since I already had something in place.
SES upon start at the train station this evening. Code P0302 misfire on cylinder 2. It was 19* out. Not sure if ambient temp has an effect or not.
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