Well shit, you have me convinced I'm doing it wrong now. I should try that next time.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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Well shit, you have me convinced I'm doing it wrong now. I should try that next time.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
That escalated quickly...
I did this in between light rain. Everything started off fine, unscrewing easily.
Me: Great! this will take 10 minutes, tops.
Car: O RLy??
Apparently this rubber gasket got caught in the threads making it a pain in the ass to unscrew by hand. I got a little creative.
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Pic of spring and said rubber gasket:
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Not much of a difference for cold start rattle, maybe a little bit more quiet? Meh. The biggest benefit is getting rid of that gasket and replacing it with a crush washer.
First attempt at trying to update the DME failed gloriously...but I didn't brick it so I can live to fight again...next weekend.
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Just for giggles, I've spent about $3400 in parts, not including tires, so far. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel! Once I do the suspension and body work, she will be sorted.
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The largest costs were replacing all the window regulators and the GAS CCV system. I'm sure I could've cheaped out, but that really isn't a good feeling for me.
Yup, no need to cheap out if you don't need to
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Got this puppy during one of the eBay sales!
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The M56 CCV seems to work well, unfortunately, I will have to delete it because of the GAS CCV system.
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I'll get to the wheels, eventually...
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Problem #1. I am going to contact GAS to see if I can get another one of these machined down to the ID of the M56.
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Wait why are you changing to the M56 valve cover with the GAS ccv kit?
For even moar CCVness!!
But seriously, I prefer the aluminum valve cover over the plastic one. It goes with my goal of making the car bulletproof. Even if I don't keep her forever, I hope the next owner will appreciate it.
Plus, my old valve cover is chipped in some places and needs to be replaced anyway. It would be nice if I can get this to work though.
Why not take it to a local machine shop and have it turned down? That would only take a few minutes on a lathe...
I mean if you're already going with an M56 valve cover then you'd probably be better off cleaning out the CCV on the M56 cover and selling the G.A.S. kit. Really no reason to have both.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
I can't use both. I already contacted G.A.S. about it previously and they said one system had to be defeated.
I personally like the design and enginerding of the G.A.S. system. I'd much rather keep it as expensive engine bay bling.
That said, I'm going to defeat the M56 CCV and use it as a standard aluminum valve cover...Plus this:
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A brushed aluminum look should be nice, at least in my head, without being too over the top like a full polish. I like the industrial look.
If you're going to brush that, I'd like to see the finished product... the only thing that has stopped me form getting that valve cover it's not very pretty...
Truth! There's really no hiding its uglyness if you want to use a strut tower bar too. The M56 beauty cover is a monster that will fit under no bars that I've found. Whatevs. I don't go to meets and open my hood for all the shawties to see my billet dipstick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
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Nice short throw dipstick brah.
I'm thinking a nice little carbon fiber/kevlar cover for the coils and the injectors should be enough to clean up the wires.
Anyway, heard some creaking noises from the rear passenger side today on the way home. Gotta keep an ear out for that again, or I could just go ahead replace the shocks at least which I know have to be bad with almost 200k on them. I probably should do an OEM refresh first so I can have a baseline of how this car performed from the factory before I start throwing random aftermarket and performance parts at it.
That would be a good idea. When I got my car with only 44k on it, it was the best handling car I had driven to that point.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
It’s a fine line between enhanced handling and annoying
Did brakes this past weekend. Picture vomit warning.
Brakes pads and rotors are from BrakeYourSelf.com. Decided to give him a shot. I got a pretty good deal at the time. Unknown brand rotors and pads, but we'll see what they can do once they fully break in. My shocks can be compressed by lightly pushing up on them. I plan to fully refresh my suspension next year including all bushings.
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I didn't install the braided lines because I didn't want to go through the process of bleeding. I'm guessing everyone here uses a power bleeder? Should I do the 2 man method or is the power bleeder *really* worth it??
Power bleeder is definitely worth it IMO. Especially if you plan in doing your scheduled brake fluid flushes yourself... Plus , don't have to yell "press, release" a hundred times to the person pushing on the pedal :)
Hindsight...probably should've washed the wheel wells. I usually do, but slipped my mind this time.
Some more pics:
Look at the lip on that brake rotor!
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Here's a pic of the undercarriage a few weeks after the oil pan gasket job.
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I also reflashed my DME to the most recent SW.The most satisfying message:
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Used a cheapie "20A" eBay charger. Worked good enuff:
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His and hers:
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Also crossed 190k!!
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Cyber Friday shopping netted me one of these:
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Very niceQuote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
Sent from my Note 9 using Tapatalk
Thanks Boss.
More werk:
Took the McD sweet tea out of the brake lines
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Also took this out:
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And these...oh wait, those are important:
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They were replaced:
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Grabbed some O2 sensor logs:
Sensor response at idle:
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Sensor response at 2krpm:
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Sensor response with varying throttle inputs:
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Like I posted in another thread, it looks like I'll be doing a cat replacement...or headers...or both.
I just ran up my credit card bill for this car...it hurt a lot. Sigh...HUGE maintenance/WYAIT update in the future.
The mechanicals WILL be sorted after all is said and done. Then I can focus on the exterior and interior condition.
Happy freaking New Year :rolleyes :help :mad
Looking forward to hearing everything you got done.
You'll be so happy when it's done. All worth it.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
3 piece shipment from FCP came in on Wed...seriously thinking about posting updates on YouTube since I'm almost at my upload limit on Flickr. It's the only social media platform that I haven't tried out. Plus they need more ZHP content :devilish
Also a special package coming from europartsonline... heh heh heh
(Edit: they bumped the price of the GEN3 up $70, $455 to $525)
Good timing too, because my car just threw a brick of codes at me:
P0306
P0420 (mmmmm 420)
P0430
I'm hoping the LC-2 will play nicely and make the car great again, we will see in the very near future.
I did end up starting a YouTube channel...it's very easy to tell that I'm a noob at this. I'm trying to find my groove with it. Just takes time I guess. Things that have happened since my last update are as follows:
130 lbs of parts from FCP
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Everyone's favorite light:
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Joined BMWCCA:
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Started replacing things, preventatively...
Shocks:
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Struts:
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Bought some headers, going to get them ceramic coated this summer. Jet-Hot quoted me $300(!):
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Got a clutch stop:
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And got some tools, because I don't like headaches:
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And that last post ate up all of my Flickr allowance. You can catch the rest of my updates on
IG: SoufsidePerformance
YouTube: SoufsidePerformance
I'll only update this thread with major updates.
Good stuff
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Coolant flush done. 194k
Drain old kool-aid, run prestone flush for 3-4 days, rinse with distilled water, fill with new kool-aid.
Intake manifold removed, block cleaned.
Things replaced:
Hoses and pipes
Starter
Engine coolant sensor
TB cleaned and gasket replaced
IM gasket
Knock sensors
IN cam, EX cam and crank sensors
MAF
Intake boots
Car starts with enthusiasm now and pulls much harder. Well worth the work.
Also found that someone has been in here previously. The injector harness clips were missing and the ECT sensor plug was damaged. The previous cylinder #6 misfire I had is now gone, but now I have a P3198 code related to the ECT sensor. I will probably replace the whole injector harness with a good one from the junkyard. That should fix both issues.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e37f69f83a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e72c7f59d7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1148a92e25.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fbba73f952.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...17aecae600.jpg
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Nice! Just curious, did you unbolt the starter from up top or underneath?
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Got it from above. Much easier IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by tomnobes
I used a small, non-ratcheting 3/8" breaker bar and a E12(?) socket with a pipe to break the starter bolts loose and a ratcheting wrench to finish undoing them.
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Gotcha. Thanks! My main issue was one of my bolts had seized so that was a pain to get that one out but regardless I was never able to fit the E12 socket on the back without the breaker bar/wrench hitting the trans.. Must have just had too bulky of a breaker bar I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Yeah, the 1/2" bar is way too big to fit in there. Luckily I had that little guy or I would've had a looooong day.
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Fixed my ECT plug. Replaced missing injector clips. Still have a high RPM cylinder #6 misfire.
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Still chasing that damn rear right side toe! I'm going to replace the UCA next. If that doesn't fix it, then the diff carrier, trailing arm, car, in that order. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a039f176a5.jpg
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Your thrust angle is way off. It can be related to the toe being off, but that can also indicate the rear subframe is off or wheelbase is uneven left to right. It's also possible they aligned the front "good" but since it's off to the rear, it's really not good and causing the thrust angle. Does the steering wheel align straight when the car is driving down the road or tend to steer off center? Has the car been in an accident?
The car has been in an accident on that side. The quarter panel was replaced (not a good job on that either), but I didn't see any frame issues. I took it to a BMW specialist shop and they didn't notice anything really out of place either.
My original lower arm was bent, but I thought nothing of it because of its design... flimsy. My rear wheel is also not centered and the ride height is a bit lower on that side. Today, I took a tape measure and measured from the chassis to the top of the brake rotor and there is a measurable difference. Not quite sure what that means yet, but we'll find out soon.
Other than that, she steers straight for the most part, with light wandering (feels like a gust of wind) sometimes.
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This is your problem. Something is bent (subframe?) And that wheel is pushed forward or backwards, thus throwing off your thrust angle. The toe was consequently altered and the alignment guy maxed out on the eccentric bolt for toe adjustment, which is why you can't get it better than it is. Time to visit the frame shop...Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
Ride height would mostly affect camber. However, camber does affect toe when adjusted. Camber is supposed to be set first and then toe after. So I guess it's possible that if the ride height is that far off maybe from a bent arm or something, then your camber would be off, which would require excessive adjustment, which could also affect your toe. But the camber adjustment has its limits much like the toe, so I can't see camber being the reason why you can't get the toe at least close.
I'm thinking that the subframe or control arm is bent as well. It doesn't take much to change the alignment specs in that way (a few mm would do it). Before I visit the frame shop, I'm going to replace the subframe and UCA as well as the associated bushings just to tighten and clean everything up under there.
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Yeah makes sense. I figured the frame shop may be able to pull it back to spec, instead of you doing all that work. Of course, if it's just a control arm, that's easy. I thought you replaced the control arms?