Badd news the spacers for o2 dont cure the SES. Light it came twice this week.
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Badd news the spacers for o2 dont cure the SES. Light it came twice this week.
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If you can, try adding a little more spacer to it. That's what another member did... I wish I could remember who it was....
After many experiment i have decided to fully stock my car. I am reverting back to factory. I dont like how the magnaflow sounds, plus the headers didn't really made that huge difference. As for the intake K&N the stock box is way better heatwise.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Do you still have the stock ZHP exhaust? It flows pretty well and sounds much better with the headers. I may go back to the ZHP exhaust as well.
FYI, I only got 7-8 hp gain on the Dyno with the full Magnaflow exhaust over the stock ZHP exhaust
The one issue with the magnaflow muffler is that the inlets are dual 2.5 inches but the outlet is a single 2.5 that restricts to 2.25 at the Y for the tips. This is fine for non modded engines with cats in place but once you start increasing flow through the system with headers and in my case super charger, it becomes a real issue and it doesn't sound very good.
You guys sure make me want to leave well-enough alone when it comes to exhaust, and I've been debating putting my stock airbox back on--although I love the sound of the K&N CAI.
yea it's a fine line between power and annoying :)
Honestly, I think this is pretty true with quite a few things with these cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reasoned1
So you are telling me that you regret installing the headers now OP? lol
I don't regret installing my headers! Code out the secondary O2 sensors and the secondary air pump and leave the stock exhaust in place and you'll be happy! It will run and sound great with no check engine light
I put back the stock headers because at the moment i am trying to find the issue that causes:Quote:
Originally Posted by kakashi169
1. At 1500 rpm when in 4 5 6 gear and i fully press the gas pedal the car jerks for about 1-3 secpnds and then accelerates
2. When accrlerating at 4 gear i can hardly reach 6000 rpm and i. 5 gear i cannot go past 5000 rpm no power
3. When i redline at neutral it misfires in the muffler
4. At idle when i turn ac on the car starts jerking
My assumptions
1. Fuel pump
2. Coil
3. Injectors
It must be either of these what do you think ?
P.S. ebay headers are a must mod !
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Coils and plugs would show symptoms at idle or low RPM's right?Quote:
Originally Posted by BerDz3nA
Maybe fuel pump/filter if its old or a failing injector?
MAF sensor...
http://i.imgur.com/Wzlm9xX.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Plugs are brand new and i have tested two different sets of them to eliminate plugs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
Coils are next to test and fuel pump.
Fuel filter is brand new.
Did you scan for codes? Not all codes will trigger SES light
Greetings,
Long time no post. I have removed the headers because it messed up with my AFR, providing that I ordered from ebay, the post cat banks didn’t clear so I relocated them to another spot, and I also had to seal the pre cat bank one because it hit the other header and I was unable to mount the cat sensor, so I had to drill another hole to fit it. Unfortunately drilling another hole that was not the same height and was positioned not similarly to the other pre cat sensor messed with my AFR and the car couldn’t rev post 6000 rpm in 5th gear, there was just not enough power.
Note that pre cat sensors are in charge/reponsible for fuel/air mixture
I know I could have drilled another hole, a proper one this time but I decided to sell the headers and buy factory drilled in the future.
Attachment 33491
I also went and dynoed the resulted with K&N intake. I wanted to compare before and after K&N gains, which by the way were impressive. Before I installed the K&N my car showed 235 HP at the crank. With K&N the car showed 248 HP ! A big gain of 13HP at the crank, So the K&N air filters really work. The torque was 297 lb/ft and now is 328 lb/ft this is a massive gain for torque, but i think decated manifold with K&N really brought up the power + ZHP cams
At the moment my car specs are:
1. Decatted exhaust manifold
2. K&N filter + Custom Intake
Attachment 33494
Attachment 33492
As you can see from the dyno AFR results from 2300rpm – 4000rpm the AFR stays between 14 ratio which is lean. From 4000rpm – 64000rpm stays at 13.5 which is normal. Because the filter induces more air the DME needs tuning to keep the 13.5 ration constant. After I install the headers I will get it tuned.
As for the problem at 1500 rpm i think it is due to the AFR needing tuning, if i unmount the MAF cable it solves itself, when unmounting the dme provides rich mixture that is why it stops the problem. As i said earlier i will tune the dme after i install the headers.
Wow for a second there I glanced over the decatted bit and thought you got that power boost from the intake. I'm betting almost all of that power came from removing the cats, but damn that's a nice gain on the stock exhaust manifolds!
so the headers was too much of a headache and thats why you sold them??
i was expecting a happy ending with the modded header story
I don't even know what you are saying but if you looked at my previous posts you would see i was already decated when my car ran 235 hp everything else stock after i installed the k&n then i gained additional 13 hp so there is no need of betting and wondering it is clearly due to the intake.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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The china ebay headers was too much headache for me i will buy locally the one that will not cause that much problems. Headers is still on top of my must mods for a zhp.Quote:
Originally Posted by kakashi169
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If you are going to get a tune, I'd eliminate the post cat O2 sensors completely along with the secondary air pump when you install the headers. Any decent tuner should be able to code them out. It will save you a lot of headache.
As far as headers go, The Bimmerbrakes headers (now sold by europarts online) quality and fit is pretty good. I'm running the V3 version which are equal length tubing but are much harder to install than the V1 version due to the positioning of the pipes to make them equal length.
I was thinking about the bimmerbrakes but it costs much more compared to ebay headers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Well, you get what you pay for you know?
Yeap but in this case prive vs hp is not justified i prefer chinaQuote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
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Bimmerbrakes headers are made in china too... same with Schmiedmann
I'm not 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure @Hornung418 had eBay headers that required a lot additional fitment work and it was a huge PITA.
As long as whatever you get can bolt right on it should be fine
Mine fit fine. It was a real bear getting them in place and mounted up. But when I did one of them was short by about a half inch and it was slightly to the left of where the rest of the system naturally rested. The shop used a donut spacer to fill the void and a couple of bolts to hold it all together. Everything worked out fine in the end.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
It might be in the build thread I have linked in my signature??
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Greetings,
Been a while since i posted an update. My performance project has come to an end. The main reason were the headers, after i found out they were defective i decided not to order new one because it was 50/50 chance it came good or the same as the previous one. Plus the MOT test in Georgia prohibits CO levels above 0.80, mine was 0.66 without the headers, if i continued my project headers, intake, throttle body, remap it would exceed the limit.
So i decided to make it fully factory, i swapped my magnaflow xpipe exhaust for stock zhp exhaust
I sold the intake and installed factory box with paper filter. I also bought the manifold with catalytic converters and installed it.
Now it is fully factory :)
Nothing wrong with full factory.... less headache in the long run.
ZHP exhaust is a good exhaust. I'm still running that exhaust with headers and supercharger
Greetings long time no update :) After i went fully stock on my ZHP, i found a guy was selling his E46 330 Gruppe M air filter. I couldn't miss the chance and i bought it. I was looking for one since i bought the car. The sound is amazing like a V8 and when accelerating it's got a nice whistle sound.
In the nearest future i am planning on installing the headers, but at the moment i am looking for a ebay header that doesn't need welding and it's bolt on. As you saw in my previous posts the previous headers was a headache since i modified three O2 sensor ports and still wouldn't work.
Attachment 34306
Attachment 34307
PLEASE let me know if you discover headers!! I've been looking for a bolt on for a long time [emoji17]Quote:
Originally Posted by BerDz3nA
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GruppeM intake is one of my favorite mods on my car.
Greetings guys long time no post :)
I have been busy working on my new project, a bigger throttle body, yeap you heard it right, i am keeping on going to finish the project.
For the moment my car specs are:
2004 ZHP M/T, I have installed japanese OEM exhaust manifold with catalytic converter and Gruppe M Intake.
I decided to install the N52B30 throttle body, which is 76mm in comparison with ZHP's 68mm (Check the first image for comparison). I could go on installing the E60 545 Throttle Body but it is way too big at 80mm.
The N52B30 throttle body plug adapter is the same as the ZHP's, so there is no problem in hooking up the plug. The problem is that you need a spacer, because only two holes can be used to mount the throttle body onto the intake manifold. The other two should be mounted onto the spacer. Also you need to enlarge the diameter of the intake manifold because as i mentioned the throttle body is bigger, the inner diameter is 76mm. I bought a separate intake manifold to work at home, because i wouldn't be able to enlarge the intake manifold diameter attached it onto the car. I used high heat grade sealant when i installed the spacer on it, let it dry for a few days. The spacer specs are 10cm*11cm*1.1cm. As for the throttle body boot, I used Ford Mondeo 1.6 1992 intake boot (p/n: 93bb-9c623-gad05wa), it is exactly 76mm and 90mm on the other end. The problem is that it has no hose ports to connect the idle valve and the vacuum hose. So i fabricated a 90mm diameter, 10cm long aluminium pipe, and welded inside two aluminium hoses to attached the idle valve and vacuum hose. I bought curved hose for idle valve i don't know that car's was and i installed a longer hose. I also bought a second Ford intake boot cut it to use as a connector between the MAF and the Gruppe M, and then i used gruppe m silicone tube to connect aluminium pipe and the other end of MAF. After i finished installing everything i smoked tested the intake to make sure air wasn't able to get in between connections, and everything worked like a clock :) At the moment i am not sure if i gained anything, but i am pretty sure that my throttle response is much better and sharper, also the gruppe m started sounding meaner.
Ok as for the pros and cons from first experience
Pros:
Better throttle response
Better sound with gruppe m
Cons:
You cannot attach the cables coming from DME that used to be bolt on the idle valve as the throttle body is bigger you have to hang it there, it is no problem providing that they are only a set of cables
Too much details when starting the project and it took me around 3 full days to install, fabricate it.
As for the prices, I live in Georgia (The country in Europe), so the used spare parts are:
1. Throttle Body of N52B30 - 15$
2. Intake Manifold of M54B30 - 19$
3. Ford Mondeo Intake Boot (Quantity: 2 pcs) - 7$
4. Spacer Fabrication - 19$
5. Aluminium Pipe & Fabrication - 17$
6. Installation by me - FREE :D
In Total: 77$
Now compare it to DINAN, Dinan costs 911$ and it is only 74mm, also on ebay a British guy sells CNC-ed Throttle Bodies for around 200$ but it is only 72mm.
Not bad for 77$ and 76mm :D
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Today i went and dynoed my car. The outside temperature was 15 degrees celsius, and car specs were:
1. Headlight Less so the filter would breath freely
2. Gruppe M
3. N52B30 Throttle Body
4. 98 Octane Super
The peak HP at the wheels was impressive considering that i have catalytic converter restricting the engine to breath. But the AFR was awfull.
From 3900rpm to 4100rpm the AFR gets lean, then normalizes and at 5800rpm starts getting richer and drops down to 11,3. The HP peak is at 5500rpm and shows 203,4HP at the wheels. I think the AFR is due to the bigger throttle body. So next step are the headers (at the local shop my friend bought and installed on his 330, the rear o2 didn't fit but i don't care as i am planning on coding out the rear o2s), after i install them i will check the dyno again to see what difference the headers made and then i will head to tune the DME at the local shop GELASHVILI PERFORMANCE. I am aiming at the 220WHP, let's see what my car shows.
If you saw my last dyno results, i showed 202WHP and my specs were:
1. KN Intake
2. Headlightless
3. Decated exhaust manifold
Now comparing with my current setup, if we say that after i installed the catalyst converter, the restriction should have reduced around 4-5WHP, the WHP should have been 197-198 WHP. So providing that i showed 203WHP with catalyst converted the throttle body should have gained me, 203WHP-197/198WHP = 5-6WHP
Take into consideration that 5-6WHP is without tuning the DME and correcting the AFR. If i tuned it the results will be greater. So at the end it was totally worth isntalling the N52B30 throttle body.
Attachment 34883
Good to know
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Awesome work! Thanks for sharing your journey + updates!
Thank you 🙂👍Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Greetings,
This time i've got a sooner update :) I installed supersprint replica headers. A local shop has imported from china, ebay lookalike headers. The box read E46 330i. The front O2 sensors installed with no problems. The rears needed alocation because it hit the wall but as i was not planning to install the rear o2 sensors, because i am planning on remapping my dme and code out the rear o2s i decided to install the blank bolts instead. I disconnected the rear o2 sensors from the car. SES light came up but it doesn't matter for me. Another issue was bolting the headers in the rear section with the exhaust. One header was longer than another and i had to cut and weld a pipe in between. Approximately 1.5-2cm pipe. Apart from that everything went well and the car runs great. The sound of the muffler has increased but not dramatically, it has a nice sound when the headers get hot.
Headers price: 150$
First impressions are that it accelerates faster and has more torque. I will dyno the results on saturday and i can compare it to the before dyno results. I ran the adaptations with inpa, a full adaptation program, it will be interesting what the afr will be.
After the dyno i am planning on remapping and that will be the end to it.
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Great thread. I assume there is some additional gain by partnering the N52 throttle body with the unrestricted carless headers. Increased air coming in and less restriction going out. In chasing HP, any desire to switch to the M50 manifold?
Yeap there is some additional gain with headers. I dynoed last night the results with:Quote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
1. Headlightless
2. Gruppe M Intake
3. N52 Throttle Body (76mm)
4. Ported Head
5. ZHP Camshafts
6. Ebay Headers
The results are: 211WHP / 285 WTQ / AFR 13.00 with a 18-20% loss for drivetrain the results for engine will be: 257-264HP / 348-356 TQ
https://i.postimg.cc/RWNHKH26/20190330-174837.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/qhkBXfgb/20190330-174906.jpg
To sum up the horsepower journey for my ZHP
The headers gave me - 8WHP
The N52 Throttle body - 4-5WHP
Gruppe M without headlight - 10WHP
As for the ported head, i don't have an idea what it increased. The mods cost me roughly 500$, 500$ for 22-23WHP, worth it ? For me totally.
Last thing that is left is the remap, which i am currently investigating in, locally only one guy can remap an MS45 ECU, George Gelashvili and it costs 350$. The expected gains are roughly 5-10WHP and a better AFR for high rpms. I also want to code out the rear Cat Sensors aka O2 Sensors. Another way is to convert to MS43 and there are around 3-5 guys that know how to remap locally, also the price is lower, around 150-250$.
Remap will be my final mod, i was intending to swap the camshafts too for a custom ones but it is not worth the headache of finding the right alignment for me, maybe in the future but not right now. There is also a mod i haven't done, the lightweight pullies but the difference will be unoticable so i passed on it. There is also a mod that will gain around 5WHP maybe ? The M50 Manifold, my friend has it on his E60 530 M54, but you need to widen the head intake ports and change the form from D to O, you also need to delete the DISA. But for the moment too much for me :)