Wow. Did that think sit in a long salt water bath!?
Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
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Wow. Did that think sit in a long salt water bath!?
Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
the weird part is, moisture must have gotten into those cavities somehow - because it is really localized.
i called the shop that i use for A/C and tire mounting, they are good folks and do fabrication. i asked about the possibility for repairing these holes, and they said "everything is fixable", to which i replied, "for how much money?" :) so i may bring them to car to see what they say. i would rather sell it whole than part it out.
update -
i have gotten a few things done... pics below.
- finished de-rusting/rust-converting/priming/anti-rust painting the rear subframe, and installing AKG poly subframe mounts, and ECS poly diff mounts (see pic)
- new ball-joint type sealed spherical bearings in upper and lower locations in rear hub (see pic)
- reinforced rear lower control arms, cleaned up and primed and anti-rust painted (see pic)... big thanks to my retired friend terry with the welder AND the steel stock!
- decided to replace the rear lower control arm bushings (inner) after more inspection (see pic of new bushings going in). rear upper inners are still good.
- installed ///M dead pedal and ///M door sills from the M Sport i just picked up. :)
- removed almost all shift linkage components; still fighting with the shifter fork pins, they are stuck in there and i gotta get creative.
- still fighting with the dumb shift selector shaft seal. going mental on it tonight.
once the above-mentioned seal and pins are out, major re-assembly can begin!
Nice!
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update -
no pics tonight, will post some later this week.
- got the dumb shift selector shaft seal out and replaced
- replaced all bushings in the shift linkage; this included delrin fork bushings from ECS, which were WAY too long - had to shave them down about 5mm each. also inserted two o-rings into the front side of the bushing that goes on the rear of the shifter fork, and filled the cavity on top of them with RTV. i also replaced the shifter ball cup thingamabob, selector shaft joint thing, and also put TWO yellow washers on the rear joint where the selector shaft rod meets the shifter - this, coupled with the delrin bushings and o-ring + RTV mod makes the shifter feel out of this world. tight, no slop whatsoever (there was lots before). it is no longer a wet noodle, but a precision instrument.
- cleaned all bolts on my bench grinder (with the wire wheel)
- installed UUC black trans mounts
- installed new flex disc
- installed rear subframe and reconnected handbrake cables to lever in cabin
- installed rear suspension and preloaded inner control arm bushings (the outers and RTABs are all spherical now, so no preload required)
got both the old and new diffs on the bench to swap the input and output flanges, and realized i don't have a 30mm socket (i thought it was 32mm). doh. this puts a damper on things, as finding a 30mm socket around here means driving at least 45min each way to get one...
hoping to get that resolved tomorrow, and get the diff in along with the driveshaft, heatshields, and fill the trans up with new fluid (diff too). then i need to bleed the brakes and clutch line, install my new style 68s, set the ride height, and done! unfortunately it will be sans exhaust, as i had to cut it off the car - so i have an appointment next tuesday to have the exhaust stuff sorted out (welded back together, and old studs removed) at a good local shop. i would do it but i am DONE with those dumb studs. :)
happy thanksgiving, americans! (that includes me :) ). my wife is awesome and making a thanksgiving dinner for tomorrow even though we live in canada. :) i love her to bits.
peter
Hey Peter, great progress! I am so showing up to Picton next spring for all my DIY needs :)
Happy thanksgiving to you and enjoy the turkey!
Nice work. HTG!
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bought an ECS CF front strut bar - black friday deals. :)
How much cheaper