Originally Posted by
az3579
If that's the case, then I have this static problem because my rear glass is hosed. I have the infamous poor reception issue, which is caused by a short in the rear glass that affects the antenna. The dead giveaway is that my radio turns to nothing but static when I turn the rear defroster on.
Bimmian's stuff is obscenely overpriced. The things they sell are for the most part the same stuff you can get on eBay.
Any LED bulb labeled as CANBUS will do the trick; these have built in circuitry to make them compatible with the CANBUS system our cars use. I found the best bulbs are the ones that have CREE chips in them. Mine have CREE chips, and are labeled as 25W (which are plenty bright even in direct sunlight), and are CANBUS bulbs, so all I needed to do was plop them in the bulb carrier (no extra load resistors, all built in) and do the coding.
Disabling the cold/warm checks doesn't do anything for you other than disable the flickering the bulb checks cause. If you don't have the proper CANBUS bulbs, or bulbs with load resistors, then you will still get the bulb out errors and the hyperflash. With the hot/cold checks disabled, all you're doing is taking away the ability for the car to tell you a bulb is out before you go to use it. In this disabled state, they will still throw a bulb out error if you take the bulb out, or if the bulb isn't functioning, but you'll only get that notification when the car attempts to illuminate the bulb.
The full method of doing this involves CANBUS bulbs as well as doing the hot/cold check coding.