Harbor Freight.
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Harbor Freight.
At what age/mileage to the Flex Disc Coupling and the Drive Shaft Center mount bearing usually need replacement??
Crap shoot. Seen some at 80k be trashed, seen some at 120k that look good. Id start checking around inspection 2 unless you have symptoms before then.
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Has anyone had poor gripping performance from the parking brake and improved it with new brake shoes? My ZHP parking brake doesn't seem to have much holding power compared to the E36, the minivan, or the old Saturn. Need to pull the handle up extra to prevent car from rolling on a slight incline. Wondering if new brake shoes would fix it, or replacing my rear rotors. Maybe some oil or brake fluid leaked onto the inside of the rear rotors?
What parking brake shoes does everyone recommend?
Dumb question, but are the shoes adjusted properly? They're supposed to be "self adjusting", but I've found that rarely works. Made a big difference on my car when I adjusted the shoes, then the cables to the parking brake handle.
Not sure about the shoes, but you can definitely adjust (lessen the travel therefore tightening) the parking brake. There is a DIY here somewhere.
You can adjust the shoes manually - it's a bit of a pain, particularly if you haven't done it before. As I said, they're supposed to be 'self adjusting', but that almost never works, on any car. Consequently, as the shoes wear they have less bite (more accurately, they're thinner and further from the drum) A little adjustment on the shoes and the cables will make a dramatic difference!
I don't know if the parking brake shoes are adjusted properly. Doesn't feel like the e-brake handle needs to be pulled up too far, just that I must pull up harder on it than needed in the minivan or E36 to get the same amount of rear braking force.
I had the rear rotors off once and just left the shoes and adjusting mechanisms in place without any changes. I can't adjust them through a wheel bolt hole because I have wheel studs, but I could take off the rear rotors and adjust the shoes outward, a bit, as long as that doesn't prevent me from sliding the rotors back on.
As for jackstands, I have 3 pairs: 2 Harbor Freight and one O'reilly/Kragen store version. One set goes into my AutoX/Travel tool box. These days I do most of the car work on a sloped driveway so only use one pay of jackstands at a time. Later when the garage gets more cleaned up, I can put the car up on 4 jackstands again on the flat garage floor.
I would definitely make sure the parking brake is adjusted correctly. Also you should check if the shoes have glazed over or not. Lack of friction from a smooth surface will result in a poor hold. You can also use some sandpaper and try and remove the glossy layer to see if it will improve grip. Double check the rotor surface that the shoe touches. I would use sandpaper on all surfaces related to the handbrake operation.Quote:
Originally Posted by LivesNearCostco
That would be scary working on a sloped driveway even with wheels blocked.Quote:
Originally Posted by LivesNearCostco
I was gonna say Sean just dealt with his parking brake.
GoingHAM mobile
OK thanks Derek. I can definitely try sandpaper on both shoes and inner part of rear rotor hat. I do have new rotor hats in the garage that I bought 4 years ago and haven't needed yet--maybe time to put them on! I see new Genuine BMW brake shoes are $99 at AutoHausAZ while aftermarket shoes are $41 there or $40 from BavAuto. ECS Tuning has Meyele for $41 or Pagid for $54. Then there is the option to replace just the springs, springs & adjusters, cables, and cable guide tubes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo
How many miles do you guys get out of your PSSs:
For those who don't track:
For those who do track/autox:
Friend of mine with his 540i got about 16k or so and he tracks.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
About to change my diff and tranny fluid this weekend and just realized my new drain plugs don't come with crush washers, do we need em or is that what the green o rings on the plugs for? Doing a bit of research and I couldn't find a good answer. Thanks!
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Yup, the plugs have built-in o rings, no washers needed!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssparrow
Good to know! Thanks again!
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Can someone confirm the parts needed to replace the drain and fill plugs on a manual tranny and on the diff?
2x tranny plugs 2311 753 1356 ?
2x Diff plugs 711 9963 355?
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About to tackle this job myself. I bought new plugs but didn't think about crush washers. But I'm pretty sure they are not needed. This is what I boughtQuote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Diff plugs x2 33117525064
Tranny plugs x2 23117531356
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Thanks. The p/n for them is 07119963355, but I can't recall if they are needed or not now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssparrow
I just had mine done by iND today too
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iND must have some nice cars out there...Quote:
Originally Posted by UdubBadger
sent from my phone
They were supercharging an 03 Imola E46 M3. Anthony said they got the cars confused and put mine on the lift until he caught it. :rofl
Otto tends to agree with you. see ~12:46. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGyCE9Gqm4oQuote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Woulda been a fun surprise lolQuote:
Originally Posted by UdubBadger
Meh...Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
GoingHAM mobile
If only they did. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by UdubBadger
Sent from iPad Mini
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssparrow
I have used the P/Ns Ssparrow quoted, no separate o ring or crush washers needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Good to know! When I did my diff fluid today, the plugs had crush washers but the plugs themselves didn't have any O-rings on them. So I ditched the crush washers and just used my new plugs
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Thanks guys.
Apologies for the noob question, but what is normally recommended for engine oil as between BMW 5W-30 oil and Mobil 1 0W-40? I was set on Mobil 1, but I learned BMW took this off of their recommended oil list. I realize this may simply be related to marketing, but thought I would ask the more seasoned ZHP folks. I didn't find a thread on this specific issue, but am still learning the site. Thanks!
I use Mobil1 0W-40 in both mine. Walmart.
BMW recommend LL01 for our cars and Mobil 1 0W-40 is so not sure why it didn't make a list
Walmart is currently $26 / 5qt jug and there's a $12 mail in rebate
Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Thanks, and I think I'll probably stick with Mobil 1. It seems to have been a good choice in everything else I have owned. In reading the document again, the only oil they do list is the BMW oil. Seems kinda strange. Awesome deal with the rebate btw.Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmeyer
:dunnoQuote:
Originally Posted by wsmeyer
Attachment 18548
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Bump. for more answers.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
ThisQuote:
Originally Posted by wsmeyer
"No flamesuit required"
Thanks again fellas. Just to share where I got this info/question from, I googled "bmw usa recommended oil" and in the first few results you would see two pdfs from bmw (January 2008 + August 2013), and a few oil threads discussing the change.Quote:
Originally Posted by danewilson77
I was probably way over thinking this issue, so I'll look forward to ZHP goodies in the mail this week to keep me busy next weekend. :fingerscrossed
And if you change your oil more often than BMW recommend 10k-15k intervals I wouldn't worry too much.Quote:
Originally Posted by ClimRox
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Ok, so Daniel and I were able to to further isolate the knocking sound in my trunk area. It appears to be coming from the area of the right rear shock. Best guess =shock? or some other sub-component?
https://youtu.be/cfL2ZlI-9n0
Daniel at the wheel and me in the back :-) https://youtu.be/i2DgIs_3KZI
Pics of other parts when I had the wheels of the other day:
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