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Only the lower, not the upper. I did replace it last night, and it may have had some torsional stress? At least it looks like is was slightly twisted compared to the good arm. The car is at almost at the same ride height as the other side now. I did find some more cancer while I was under there seems to be only on this side where the poor repair was done. I'll grab some pictures later.
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Shit just got real...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c272cb4e7d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e6ca812366.jpg
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Ooof
DAMN. This is really painful to see...
Holy crap, that's a lot of rust. How is the other side?
Ouch!
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Other side is great. The rusted out side is where the quarter panel was replaced. I'm guessing poor draining led to this over time. Unfortunately, I'm wayyyyyy to invested to let her go now, so I'll have to eat this one... Eventuallyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...056c5c1d9f.jpg
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I also had a bent upper control arm screwing up the height and toe. I was glad it wasn't the trailing arm.
Ordered the updated ignition coils with new plugs. FCPEuro LRG saved me about $200. I'm hoping this will cure my misfire as it seems to be getting worse, which is a good thing for diagnostics.
I'll go to the yard tomorrow pull a subframe, trailing arm and bracket, and a maybe a new engine wiring harness as the loom is deteriorating on mine.
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Which coils did you go with? I bought Delphi, since I read some good stuff about them. They are great so far. Added a noticeable pep to the car. I didn't have misfires before except for the 2800 rpm stumble, which it did not cure.
I believe they are the Delphi ones. I can 100% confirm when they get here.
Grabbed a subframe and a trailing arm from the pull apart. This was off of a auto 325i that probably wasn't driven too hard and the bushings are cracking, so I know mine need to be replaced with 205k on them.
Hopefully, that'll fix the alignment thing as well as tighten up the car...FWIW...they are still stock bushings.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3a2ebc2b11.jpg
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Love this meme... I'm sure you all can relate lol.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...478ee51d7c.jpg
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Everytime :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
Passed emissions in the state of Ga. Pretty easy since everyone thinks the resonators are the cats.
Next:
Header ceramic coating by a local company
While the header is being installed:
Shifter bushing refresh
Shift seal
Output seal
Guibo
CSB
Diff swap?maybe
Install subframe with fresh OEM bushings
Check for RACP cracks
Then I'll be almost done with maintenance...after 4 years...
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Nice!
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Baby steps. Next is to paint the subframe and and install new OE bushings for diff and subframe.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9bef4ad939.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...788a5f9ef2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7a390b6612.jpg
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Decided to do a quick health check.
Fuel pressure good at around 50psi, leaky connection, but it did the job.
Compression on all cylinders are between 175-185 dry. Roughly 4-5 cranks. A 10 crank test puts them closer to 190-195.
Happy with the results, not happy with my misfire. I bought Bytelogger to do some serious datalogging. Can't fight what you can't see.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8a388ed7f2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d7415cfde9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2cbb5a10b3.jpg
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Car went electrically dead on me. Went to go wiggle the positive batt terminal and voila, everything comes on. Ugh...
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Shipped headers off to get ceramic coated. I was going to go local, but changed my mind at the last minute.
E-Brake handle died on me, stopped ratcheting. I'll have to break that down and fix it.
Need to install my clear headlight covers too.
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Fuel pump replaced at 210... prevention is keyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...680b240529.jpg
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True dat
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Did you ever diagnose the misfire? Bad plug or coil?
99% sure it's clogged cats as there is a significant loss of power at all rpms now.
The engine sounds "rough" as in it's struggling to breathe.
The exhaust pulses coming out the muffler feel weak, but I really need a known good car to compare it with.
My headers are coming back from the ceramic coater in about 2 weeks, so I'm not going to bother with pulling plugs or anything.
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Just noticed that I haven't really wrenched on the car since March of last year. Is she getting reliable on me??
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
That's a good feeling - just to enjoy the drive rather than to have downtime due to reliability problems.
Was the fuel pump @210k the second one (i.e. 1 per ~100k miles), or was it preventative since it had 210k?
According to the Carfax, the last time it was replaced was at 105k, over 5 years ago now. It may have been good for another few years, but I'd rather not roll the dice.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
Nice. I agree, I think it's a ~100k mile maintenance item.
I'm pretty sure I'll need counseling after I'm done with this car.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...392c0e7a15.jpg
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Maybe we can get a group-rate on that counseling. Looking forward to see the progress!Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
Lol
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I'm kind of conflicted right now...there is a Japanrot wagon I'm interested in that's fairly local.
I won't be able to use my dad's car for too much longer, so I'll need a temporary daily.
I already have most of the parts for a ZHP conversion.
This car is suffering from rust and a pretty extensive accident history.
In theory, I could gut all the juicy bits from the sedan, scrap it, and transfer it to the wagon depending on how nice the wagon is and what I can haggle down to.
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Oh right I remember how much trouble you were having getting it aligned. Honestly the transplant might be the best bet.
Paint that wagon estoril tho
Sounds like making lemonade from lemons, that's what I would do consider the rust and accident history.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
I have way too much invested in the game to just give up now. I'm pretty sure my maintenance record book is about an inch thick. Almost every mechanical part has been replaced under my ownership, so it really makes the most sense in my head to transfer everything to a nice body. This was a great first BMW experience for me, as it showed me how neglected these cars can get. It also showed me the reward (and wallet draining) of fixing the small things like shocks that are old but not dead and worn out suspension bushings and oil leaks...all of the oil leaks. I have literally watched this car grow from being a POS, to a fairly competent daily. Minus this little mishap, the car was reliable. Now I get to try again, this time with more knowledge and experience under my belt and hopefully with a clean sheet this time...with more cargo space.
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Also, look at the piston number 1 exhaust valve relief. That is definitely a dent from a tappy tap. It makes me feel a little better knowing that a single valve didn't just randomly drop, and reinforces the original suspected cause of failure which was the VANOS bolts that came loose on the intake cam.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9e2a0bc62d.jpg
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Do this. Love Japanrot.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
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+1 on conversion.
You will literally take everything from under the ZHP (except the fuel tank, lines and brake lines) and transfer it to the wag, all of your previous ZHP maintenance will be put to good use.
The teardown has begun.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c5e940624f.jpg
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