Ha no worries, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
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Ha no worries, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
I'm working to put my BMW Performance intake into my car and I'm running into some trouble. The tab next to the expansion tank describing the proper coolant levels (pictured below) is too tall and blocking the top intake funnel. The official installation instructions from BMW (attached) state in step 3 "Installing Performance Air Cleaner System" in the second box to "Unclip tab (1)." For the life of me I cannot figure out how to remove it. Does anyone know how?
Tab next to the expansion tank cap, supposedly removable:
http://i.imgur.com/2y1cGez.jpg
BMW Installation Instructions:
Attachment 20765
EDIT:
Nevermind, that sucker just needed a good yanking.
Yes, it just slides of IIRC.
New problem! When I originally had a PPI for my car back at the end of March, the mechanic found "a light clicking nose from the rear of the car possible driveline CV." It was faint at that time but now it's become more prominent so I would like to fix it. I'm assuming from the description the mechanic meant one of the rear CV joints, but maybe he meant where the driveshaft meets the differential? Rooting around the interwebs the alternate possibilities seem to be worn differential bushings or the subframe bushings. Any alternative thoughts? I tried getting the sound caught on my phone, but the mic just isn't good enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Not sure if ur talking about the same sort of issue I had but hope this helps
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14053
To summarize, it was the diff bushings (all 3)... It is easy to inspect the big carrier bushing at the back of the diff, but the 2 small ones at the front are not that easy to inspect...
But unfortunately replacing the bushings did not cure the clunk... Took it to an Indy shop and the mechanic said it is most likely the driver side rear axle as it has some slight ply in it... Haven't replaced it yet...
Also the link I posted was my first post on the zhpmafia website so ul see that I asked a lot of stupid questions...[emoji14]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Any recommendations on diff bushings? Not sure I wanna go poly. Turner uses myle HD. Are those any good?
My number one concern is durability. I don't want to have to do this again in 75k.
I went with lemforder
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the link. After reading through the replies it seems like it could be a handful of things, the differential bushings being the most likely culprit. I seem to recall from talking with the mechanic during my PPI that it might have been a rear drive shaft bearing issue (I assume the rear hooks up to the differential in a similar fashion to the transmission up front, but I don't know for sure). Sorry to hear replacing the bushings didn't help you any. Still haven't fixed the clunk?Quote:
Originally Posted by san
I have included two videos that have the clunking sound:
1. I am engaging the clutch and then disengaging the clutch in reverse:
https://streamable.com/l570
2. I am engaging the clutch, disengaging, then finally pulling away in first:
https://streamable.com/odtp
Wish I could help, but I know even less about diff bushings than the the Greeks understand how they got in their debt crisis. My gut suggestion would be M3 bushings to increase durability over ours, but I wouldn't know how much longer they'd last.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
That sounds like diff bushing to me... But can never be certain until u inspect it... Shouldn't take u more than 15-20 min... All u need to do is to jack up the rear of the car and try to inspect it visually...Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Replacing the diff bushing on mine helped decrease the clunk a little but not did not eliminate it completely... Indy mechanic said it's probably the driver side axle with a a bad cv joint as it has slight ply in it... Haven't replaced it yet...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is this the mic at the top of the picture already installed? Do all of our cars have this? If not, why would this be in there unplugged? Looking at installing oem bluetooth because useless buttons drive me crazy! Will be tearing into trunk when I have more time to investigate. Attachment 20782
That's where it would be but not all cars came with. In fact, if you don't have factory Bluetooth I would guess you wouldn't have the mic.
sent from mobile device
There is no m3 bushing that fits a zhp, that's why I'm stumped.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I doubt there is, but was there ever a console insert that had a single cup holder and the eurotray? Something like this:
http://i.imgur.com/E3mmtQc.jpg
I like the use of a single cup holder but would love to have the eurotray as well. My guess is I'd have to custom fabricate it, I can't seem to find any manufactured part.
I've been dying for one of these for the longest time. Really wish they made a tray/cupholder.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I bought a gruppe m intake last week from eBay and it came with a k&n filter and the filter looks quite bad... Which replacement filter would u guys recommended??
Would M3 HSD / Eibach coil overs fit our cars?
Same. I've wanted one since my '03 330Ci. You can only use the front cup holder while the armrest is down and I use that one a lot, but the rest of the console would have a lot more utility with the euro tray. I'm seriously tempted to buy the short euro tray and try and custom fab it with my current cup holders but I have no experience with bondo/whatever you might use to do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
My beef with the cupholders is that the front one is useless. It gets in the way of my shifting. I don't have an armrest installed though so I always use the rear.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
sent from my Droid Turbo
I like the looks of that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
So you'd want it the other way around, with the euro tray closest to the shifter and the cup holder in the rear? Interesting. I know what you mean, things in there definitely get in the way when shifting if too large but I get used to it pretty easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
It was custom fabricated by a guy over on E46Fanatics back in 2010. He never posted about the finished product, but he describes how he cannibalized the OE cup holders and sawed them in half and attached the short euro trayQuote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Link: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=565102
Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Sorry San and bshovers, I don't want your questions to get lost in the thread while I yap on about euro trays/cup holders. I don't actually know, unfortunately, but someone with more knowledge will surely chime in soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by bshovers
Is there a need to change/upgrade differential bolts when replacing the bushings?
I think they do but they're set up for a different car. It's wider and heavier than non-MsQuote:
Originally Posted by bshovers
Is it possible to swap out the window buttons (like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E46-3-SE...-/151758089563) or do I have to buy a whole new switch? One of my buttons has a lot of the black paint scraped away from the previous owner.
Well, buy that and let us know!Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
An OEM part will only be the whole switch, though.
When I had it apart it before it didn't look like there was any good way to get at replacing the button, but they had to get them in there somehow, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Well they're not really designed to be replaced individually, so the "it got in there somehow" mentality may not necessarily apply. Sometimes it's far easier to make it a certain way when you don't have to think about its ease of replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Give it a try and let us know!
I would normally just buy the whole switch assembly; they're not that much money used on eBay. It would be nice if there's a way to replace them individually though. If you're successful, you should write up a DIY. :)
I'm going to take a look at the switch later this week and see what it might take to do. I can't quite remember what it looks like disassembled. It doesn't help that the whole switch can be had for $25-30 but the buttons all seem to be $10 w/ shipping.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
AEMQuote:
Originally Posted by san
yes. the top mounts are different thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by bshovers
Follow up on my button question
So I took the driver's side window switch out and at first glance and it seemed that I could remove the button as it was held in with two "axles" (see picture below). However, despite how hard I pushed on the axles to try and create space for the button to slip above it, it would not budge. I put so much pressure on it with a nail punch that fit that I worried I was going to snap it. I really could not do it. I looked at it closely and the top edge of the axle is shaved off at an angle (you can sort of see it in the pic as well). I'm guessing it is that way so that it can be pushed into place easily during assembly, but having the rest of the axle be flush with the side of the button makes it incredibly unlikely to unseat itself. Additionally, the entire area that the axle is attached to is solid so there just isn't enough flex to disassemble it.
http://i.imgur.com/5wIkXku.jpg
And if you are a dolt like me, you may forget which way in the lower assembly of the switch goes into the upper assembly. A quick check by reattaching the lower assembly to the car's power and testing the windows yields the correct orientation below, with the red things of each switch toward the rear of the car:
http://i.imgur.com/azKY2nd.jpg
So with that said, I can either do nothing and let the minor cosmetic issue be, or buy a new OEM assembly switch (part no. 61316902175). With how I like my cars, the latter option is probably my most likely move :help
EDIT: I will post this in my maintenance/project thread for a more permanent location.
You just use a little flat blade screwdriver to pry up on the white area below the hole.
Thanks! How about aFe Pro Dry filter, will it fit? And what about having one custom made?Quote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
http://afepower.com/shop/custom/filter.php
Did you get that to work for you? I tried that, even with a set of small eyeglass screwdrivers. It was too snug to remove.Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmeyer
Many times. You have to disassemble the switch to mod verts and coupe's to get the all-up/dwn feature to work. I pull the buttons out as I find it much easier to assemble the switch and then push the button back in.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Right you are, I got it to work. Now I feel a little less intelligent for not getting it the first time around, but it always good to be humbled by something. I'll make a quick DIY for those people like me.Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmeyer
Best way to get the leftmost (driver's side) dash trim piece off?
sent from mobile device
Buy a $6 set of trim tools from Harbor Freight and have at it. There are two pins, one on the leftmost side of the trim, and one on the right side of the trim. Pry carefully from the bottom. I'd do a little bit on each side till it eventually pops off.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
I can remove mine by hand, so it takes me 3 seconds. lol
lol. I have the pry tools and I've done the right/middle so many times they are easy. The left on is definitely solidly in there, so I wanted to make sure there were no tricks. Thanks BP.
Unfortunately not. "Just do it" is as good as it gets.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
Make sure you have spare orange inserts handy because you will destroy at least one!
I'd recommend buying 6-10 orange dash trim female connectors. 1-2 typically fall apart every time I remove the trim. Another inferior made BMW plastic bit.
Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
You can also use a wide flat blade screw driver to get the dash trim pieces off....that's what I do...
Can't really call them inferior since they were designed as single use... and stay perfectly tight right up until you remove them. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86