Word. I did the shifter rebuild/CSB/guibo/etc. when I did my rear subframe. Only thing on your list I didn’t pick up was the “shift rod seal.”Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Printable View
Word. I did the shifter rebuild/CSB/guibo/etc. when I did my rear subframe. Only thing on your list I didn’t pick up was the “shift rod seal.”Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
After about three years of ownership I just found out that the little cord in the glove box is actually a 12v port. The previous owner had a Griffin aux cord attachment in it so I always just assumed it was a wired aux to the back of the radio.
Reason I bring this up is because I was fiddling around with my glovebox today and my aux stopped working. Took out the newly discovered griffin 12v aux connector and found that is still flashes blue when plugged into the main 12v port in the dash, but still won’t play music. I then tried the opposite of that and put a phone charger in the glove box port and it wouldn’t work.
Any ideas?
Can anyone recommend a good extractor for oil changes? This latest mess had me set on Fumoto valves for both cars, but then I thought that $80 could be used on a pretty sweet extractor instead and I wouldn't even have to get under the car. Granted, I only change the oil maybe twice a year per car, but this shit suxxxx:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ac71ade1b7.jpg
what the heck??
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
My appreication for your mechanic skills just took a hit.
I bought a $20.00 extractor from northern tool, runs off the battery.
take about 5 minutes and its a bit cleaner.
Struggle bus...
I ran a can of lubro moly engine flush through an already warm engine for 10 minutes and then drained it immediately. The oil was very, very thin and sprayed everywhere when the drain plug came out.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Hah! I can fix damn near anything with all of the crazy problems I've been faced with in engineering jobs, but if I so much as look at an oil container, some amount of it ends up on the ground. It's inevitable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yelkos
It was one of those "hour job turns into four because everything that could go wrong did" kind of days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Murphy’s Law at work.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
- - - -
Unrelated to Nate’s oil ineptitude, I have a question for those of you with LSDs. Which of the three (maybe more?) options did you choose, and why
-MFactory
-DiffsOnline
-M3 rear end conversion
M3 conversion seems to be the cheapest, but the gearing is really high.
Sub-question: helical or clutch-type?
I went with diffs on line for both of my LSDs...
1st one was on sale at Turner. He does all their diffs.
2nd one I bought off of Stu because the gearing was too high on the first one for my liking. I installed the first one in Charlie's car for him. Both are clutch type. If I remember right, both are a 3 disk setup with pretty steep ramping.
The 135 has an OS Giken in it.
If you're going to go FI at anytime in the future then M3 subframe swap would be the way to go. The rear diff mount on our subframes is the weak link when it comes to HP.
I Have a 3x3 aluminum drip pan for jobs like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
You can also get a plastic "boot tray" for storing boots by your back door. I have one of those too. It's a little smaller and narrower than my aluminum tray They are great for that and any cooling system jobs where there is always something dripping outside the container your using...