Yup. That's for later models. And, no radio codes either. :)
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Yup. That's for later models. And, no radio codes either. :)
[emoji106]Quote:
Originally Posted by san
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ZHPGUY
Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Music to my ears, thanks fellas :thumbsupQuote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
I'm really wanting a leather steering wheel. Anyone ever done business with this seller? If so, how was the quality?
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/221731877614
I don't know them, but if you're looking for a leather steering wheel like the one linked (perforated leather on the sides, ///M stitching) I suggest the company I used, suggested to me by Johnrando. It was $350 plus shipping which was $15 for me. You can see pictures of it in my project thread here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...923#post431923Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssparrow
It should be noted turn around time was 3-4 weeks so I opted to pay an additional $200 core charge which was given back to me when they received my alcantara wheel. Also, they add some padding to the wheel so it's slightly thicker than the stock wheel. I prefer the extra thickness, but others may not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssparrow
That seller has very very good reviews on other forums.
Tempting. Would love to put one of these in my M5.
I actually was looking at your build thread the other day trying to find the company that rewrapped your wheel, I may pull the trigger on this eBay one, the quality looks really nice and that way I can sell my old wheelQuote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
They're DCT Motorsports. Their website is a little...early 2000s to say the least, but emailing them directly worked fine. Whichever route you go, post pics once you've got new leathery goodness installed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssparrow
I'll check em out! Thanks again guys. I'll be sure to post photos with whatever route I go!Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I'm working on swapping out my pads and rotors. Anyone have any advice on a seized rotor? I've got the retaining screw out, but for the life of me I cannot get the rotor to come off the hub. I've been banging away on the back of the rotor on the part that's not covered by the dust shield, but no luck.
EDIT: Tried hitting at the 12 then 6 then 3 then 9 o'clock positions several times in that order, no luck.
EDIT 2: Got the f*cker!
You need a BFH (Big Fucking Hammer). Whenever I have trouble with one, I use a 4lb hammer, with a hard thwack on it to loosen it. Can't be shy; give it a nice hard hit.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
We had the same issue trying to replace Ayan's (orange260z) rotors last summer. Eventually when we got the sledgehammer out, it did the job with a few thwaks!
Any recommendations on the best rondel to buy for front and back? Also might be interested in wheel caps as well, all in black/white color scheme.
My front has a bit of water in it that "squishes" out when pressed, and the rear is separating from the housing a bit, so it seems like time to replace.
Your best bet is to buy OEM roundels and then get a decal sheet from bav auto. I tried finding black/white roundels for a while and never had any luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by mynamenumber
Previous owner put these brake dust guards on the car. Anyone have any input on if they're bad for ventilation? Seems the little air scoops could be good, but also seems like it could impede air flow too. Thoughts?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1r8wwlpjb...44.35.jpg?dl=0
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Originally Posted by UWISHU1
Eh... I can imagine the brakes getting pretty toasty with anything above a "slightly enthusiastic" drive.
Judging by the picture, it obviously doesn't work, so I'd rather just clean my wheels. :dunno
They have a "cheap and ugly" look, in my opinion, plus what BP said.
UGH - so ugly. A clean set of calipers & rotors look so nice through the style 135s.Quote:
Originally Posted by UWISHU1
They actually worked pretty well until it rained. lol
When I went to look at the car I just thought to myself, whomever put those on there is not really a car person.
I'm planning on taking them off, but probably be lazy and do it in the spring. Right now I'm just driving and enjoying the car until I get the Subaru sold.
So I finished up my brakes and rotors, but had been planning to paint my calipers. However, brake cleaner and a wire brush hasn't really been able to clean off all the baked in dirt and grime on the calipers, despite several attempts. How clean do the calipers have to be in order to paint them and have the paint last?
Before painting calipers, I spent about 5 mins on each caliper - 1 min of spraying with Brake-Kleen and 3 mins with a wire brush followed by a min blowing them off with air. After that, the paint sticks fine. Apply multiple thin coats of paint, 5-6 coats spaced 20-30 mins apart should be fine. When it shines after drying, you're fine, it'll last for years.
Great, thank you! I think I'll attempt to paint them tomorrow after I try and clean the calipers a little more.Quote:
Originally Posted by BCS_ZHP
Is it possible to remove the bumper mesh from an mtechII without removing the whole bumper.
NoQuote:
Originally Posted by NickZHP
Some claim it is. See posts 13, 15, 22, and 25: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...le-rehab/page2Quote:
Originally Posted by NickZHP
I plan to paint my lower grille today while my car is up on jack stands. I'm just going to tape off the bumper and put some newspaper behind the mesh grille before spray painting with some semi-gloss paint.
It takes less time to remove the bumper than to mask it off
Really? Looking at ecrabb's coupe bumper removal DIY (link), it seems a lot more involved than just taping off the bumper, removing the plastic skid plate, and stuffing some newspaper behind the grille before painting.Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmeyer
I'm just going to buy a new lower grill for how cheap they are. I'll spray it with a gloss black before install to help preserve it
-Holden
Should work. Mine was recently painted and is already chipping.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
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Oh snap (literally).
Attachment 22882
I guess I need to increase the urgency of my search for front and rear rondel / emblems. I'm actually not seeing a proper black/white one ANYWHERE. Are they really not available as aftermarket items, or am I not looking in the right place? Maybe I should just take the whole car's look back to blue/white "normal" mode?
The rear looks like it's just about to do the same.
Don't most people just buy stickers to put over the blue? http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-47...ing-wheel.aspx
When I bought my Mini Cooper, both emblems (hood and trunk) were peeling. I used stickers and have been very happy with the results. More than 2 years and they still look new.
I'll need to get some sort of new emblems for front and back either way, though. So, sounds like the suggestion is to get a proper OEM rondel for hood and trunk, the the black stickers? The only black/white emblems I see for sale seem to be VERY non-OEM, and often poorly-reviewed (perhaps like the ones on my car currently!).
I'll order Monday :)
Anyone have any experience with Apple CarPlay? I'm really wanting a new deck and I've been looking at a whole lot of different stuff, my question is, anyone have the alpine ilx-700? How do you like it if so? Also if anyone has any suggestions let me know! I'm an iPhone user (iPhone 6) and I NEED Bluetooth music streaming. Thanks guys!
It was very easy to mask and paint the mesh grill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssparrow
I would also LOVE to hear anyone's experience with any Apply Play product, including whether it sounds good with the existing HK system "as-is," and whether all the steering wheel buttons can be made to work with it.
I have not seen many here talk about having anything like that. I use a USB Bluetooth adapter via the Aux Jack. Keep us posted (perhaps in the audio section).
Tumbs, fone, TaT. ;-)
I'd just add that a direct USB connection to any decent, contemporary car radio will generally produce MUCH better sound quality than an AUX input, and might be significantly better audio than any Bluetooth streaming option.
The BT has to degrade, compress, stream, decode, then play, so it's absolutely lossy. AUX uses the DAC of the iPhone, which SHOULD be worse than a stereo's DAC, even in the lower-priced units.
I'm personally leaning towards one of these newer digital-only units (no CD player), just to do a direct USB link and rely on my iPhone's display. In fact, I'm kinda leaning towards getting an iPad mini as the "screen" of a setup like this, and just keep that iPad sync'd / logged in to all my main accounts. Will post updates whenever I pull the trigger on a plan :)
To be fair, with how noisy a car's interior gets, the artifacts from lossy compression and/or digital to analog converters are harder to notice.Quote:
Originally Posted by mynamenumber