Printable View
Thanks, Rob. I’m honestly considering a second car for dedicated track duty, which is why I don’t want to go too crazy on this one. The Achilles baffle looks good, and in reading more I understand the benefits, but I think I want to save future track-prep mods for the second car. I’d like to work my way up to club racing, and SpecMiata or SpecE46 are really calling my name. But I might change my mind on the baffle in the next few weeks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Originally Posted by san, responding to "Is simple green a good solvent to clean the engine bay? Anything better?"
I use Purple Power.... used to be called Castrol Super Clean. Works great and is environmentally safe. Put in on undiluted and hose off. The only thing is if you have anything anodized under the hood, you don't want to leave it on there for a long time. After you're done, dress the engine bay with Silkonlene Pro Prep and your engine bay will look brand new.
My neighbor had Castrol Super Clean lift the paint from the air cleaner housing of his GMC truck. Don't know if this is a GMC paint quality issue or due to the Super Clean, but I don't need that kind of cleaning power!
Simple Green, Purple Power, oven cleaners... are great for removing grease, but will attack raw aluminum, especially if left on too long. Dawn dish wash soap is great for cleaning grease. Dawn and a bristle brush can go a long way.
If the paint came off, it was ready to come off anyway.
I've never had an issue with super clean/purple power. I've been using it since the early 90's on everything. cars, motorcycles, golf carts, lawn mowers, grills, etc. Even used it to clean the cloth seats in my "85 bronco back in the day... which came out like new.
Anything that's raw aluminum or anodized should only be washed with soapy water but you can still use super clean on it if you wet it first or hose it off within a minute or so. The aluminum block, VANOS assy, etc is un affected by super clean/Purple power
We use Simple Green full strength at work to clean ultrasound diagnostic machines...they are mostly plastic, painted parts and aluminum. Never had an issue with that either.
I would never let a can of oven cleaner get near anything but an oven.
Fixt.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Attachment 33784
Hey, I'm not in Jersey anymore...
Oil pan gasket is on my future jobs list.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
1.) is it worth replacing the oil pump? They seem pretty solid, nut aside.
2.) aren’t there pan baffles that bolt in?
If you're not tracking your car a lot or living in the upper RPM range, I wouldn't worry about it. I beat on my car a lot since I bought it with 44k on it and the nut was tight as hell... I knew I was going FI so that is the major reason for upgrading those parts.
I haven't seen any that bolt in... The only two I really looked at were VAC and Achilles spec e46 catalogs...
Yes I track the car.
In that case, I'd do both while you're in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
If you decide to replace the oil pump, make sure you prime it. I know there is at least 1 other member that installed the pump dry and didn't have an issue but why take the chance. Fill that baby with oil and spin it a few times to get it good and primed then bolt it on.
There are some that are retrofitting a tensioner for the oil pump chain but that will more work...
After lots of research, it seems to help with track duty, you should get an S54 chain tensioner, INA overdrive pulley, and a GSR pump.
An oil pump chain tensioner from S54 is also a good idea but risks head gasket damage