Those notches are the min and max lines. It's easier to read that one than a regular car's because you don't have to look for a min and max line on the stick which may or may not be covered in oil. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
Printable View
Those notches are the min and max lines. It's easier to read that one than a regular car's because you don't have to look for a min and max line on the stick which may or may not be covered in oil. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
Curious what others actually have on their alignment readout.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
What do you want to know about alignment settings? I have researched the heck out of this stuff recently and am appalled by BMW's recommended settings for these cars. So much toe in that it drives like a tractor.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
mechanic once told me that toe in is for the purpose of road friction pushing toe back to zero when driving. But why not just have zero toe to begin with...?
He's right. The rubber RTABs and FCABs in these cars have some give, so they set the alignment with a lot of toe in at rest. When you're running 80mph, the rolling resistance pushes against those rubber bushings and makes the wheels want to toe out, but since he set them with static toe in, they end up tracking straight.Quote:
Originally Posted by papa_g
The toe in at low speeds just makes the car not want to turn and I can't stand it though.
My caster settings are negative on one side and positive on the other. I know almost nothing about caster. Was wondering what 'normal' would be and then what the Z4M ones that add caster would do.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Caster is basically the angle that your strut is tilted back towards the driver and that must be a misprint because you can't have negative caster. It's about 5.0° and can't be adjusted on these cars. The Z4M FCABs push the wheel forward a bit in the well and therefore give you a little more caster, which improves turn in.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
This is my latest printout from when I had Firestone shoot for -1.5° camber and use the BMW settings for toe. It plowed so hard into corners with all that toe in. I've since replaced the rubber bushings with monoballs so that toe has got to go.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b02eda1f9a.jpg
There should really be a super alignment thread because this information is super useful!
What are you thoughts on my trunk? It's been this way since I purchased the car which makes me think it may have been hit. Could it just be some sort of misalignment that's easily fixable or is the trunk warped? The other side is completely flush. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d5bb5b693b.jpg
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
These alignment posts are very informative - would be easier to find them in the Suspension section vs. 600+ pages of random stuff!
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/forum...?99-Suspension
Yea it’s the easiest one to read!!Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
FWIW, I overfill both my miata and zhp by at least half a quart. Cuts down on lifter tick from track/autox.