The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

My friend has one on his (non-ZHP) 330i. Personally if it was between spending money on a Magnaflow or keeping the stock exhaust, I'd keep it stock. He did get his exhaust for free though, because he knows people! lol

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Originally Posted by theothersawyer

My friend has one on his (non-ZHP) 330i. Personally if it was between spending money on a Magnaflow or keeping the stock exhaust, I'd keep it stock. He did get his exhaust for free though, because he knows people! lol

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There's a guy asking $300 for it... Not worth it??


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Originally Posted by san

There's a guy asking $300 for it... Not worth it??

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Full catback?

I personally just love the way the stock ZHP sounds! I do wish it was louder though! Full car back for $300 sounds pretty good!

Hey, I went to my local non-dealer shop for a coolant flush. He says he pressure tested and spotted a leak at the water pump, wants $400 for the job, but NOTED that at least this includes the coolant flush as part of the job.

This all seem reasonable? It's not one of those "you're a dummy" things like a hose clamp that just needs tightening or similar, right?

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Originally Posted by theothersawyer

I personally just love the way the stock ZHP sounds! I do wish it was louder though! Full car back for $300 sounds pretty good!

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That's why I wanted the BMW Performance muffler so badly. Sadly I think only one member here got theirs in the mad rush to get them.

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Originally Posted by BMWCurves

Full catback?

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Yup cat back


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Originally Posted by san

Yup cat back

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If it doesn't involve cutting, I'd get it. Worst case is if you don't like it, you can turn around and sell it. I imagine you'd get your money back pretty easily.

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Originally Posted by BMWCurves

If it doesn't involve cutting, I'd get it. Worst case is if you don't like it, you can turn around and sell it. I imagine you'd get your money back pretty easily.

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Ya, brand new they come as 2 sections... Hopefully it's not welded...


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I'm planning on swapping out my front seats today for the M3 seats I picked up this weekend. I plan to use this DIY:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=657042

Is there anything else I need to do or should be worried about? I plan to disconnect the battery as my first step so I don't forget.

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Originally Posted by BMWCurves

I'm planning on swapping out my front seats today for the M3 seats I picked up this weekend. I plan to use this DIY:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=657042

Is there anything else I need to do or should be worried about? I plan to disconnect the battery as my first step so I don't forget.

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Be sure to get them into a good position (mostly forward?) before you disconnect.


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"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46fanatic

Good idea, thanks!

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Originally Posted by NickZHP

If I were to install O2 spacers (spark plug non-foulers) to get rid of a CEL with aftermarket headers it wouldn't have any affect on performance and airflow correct?

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Plug non foulers don't really work on our cars. Much too smart. Only way to run headers and be obd2 compliant is to run a wide band controller to trick computer into seeing the rear o2 sensors are intact and functional

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Originally Posted by mynamenumber

Hey, I went to my local non-dealer shop for a coolant flush. He says he pressure tested and spotted a leak at the water pump, wants $400 for the job, but NOTED that at least this includes the coolant flush as part of the job.

This all seem reasonable? It's not one of those "you're a dummy" things like a hose clamp that just needs tightening or similar, right?

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You should really be replacing the entire cooling system. Search around for info. Parts and labor will be $700-1000 depending.

I've been hearing and reading a lot about the cooling system reboot, so I plan to do it soon. Will the car start running hot and I'll be able to see it on the temp gauge with at least a little notice before a problem? I generally watch my temp gauge religiously.

Question on O2 sensors that maybe someone can save me some lookup trouble. What is the recommended mileage to change them at?

I know the e90's interval to replace O2 sensors is 100,000 miles. This is based on miles, not years of use. However, I don't know about the e46. GL.

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Originally Posted by UWISHU1

I've been hearing and reading a lot about the cooling system reboot, so I plan to do it soon. Will the car start running hot and I'll be able to see it on the temp gauge with at least a little notice before a problem? I generally watch my temp gauge religiously.

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If things start going south on your cooling system you'll probably see the temp gauge go up. That said, you'll want to shut your car down immediately if it starts to climb. I'd wager you might also see a bunch of steam if there's catastrophic failure (burst hose or something), but not much visual evidence if there's a steady leak.

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Originally Posted by johnrando

Question on O2 sensors that maybe someone can save me some lookup trouble. What is the recommended mileage to change them at?

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Someone said something recently regarding coils and O2 sensors, I think they said around 125k or earlier for the sensors.

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Originally Posted by BMWCurves

If things start going south on your cooling system you'll probably see the temp gauge go up. That said, you'll want to shut your car down immediately if it starts to climb. I'd wager you might also see a bunch of steam if there's catastrophic failure (burst hose or something), but not much visual evidence if there's a steady leak.

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Noted. Thx man.

Just remember our temp gauges have a wide range of "flux" in them so by the time you see it really going up, it's almost too late and you have to shut down immediately.

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Originally Posted by johnrando

Just remember our temp gauges have a wide range of "flux" in them so by the time you see it really going up, it's almost too late and you have to shut down immediately.

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Yup, exactly. I think the stock range for dead center is 75ºC-115ºC. That's a huge range (40ºC) for the car's temperature gauge to be reading "normal."

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Originally Posted by UWISHU1

I've been hearing and reading a lot about the cooling system reboot, so I plan to do it soon. Will the car start running hot and I'll be able to see it on the temp gauge with at least a little notice before a problem? I generally watch my temp gauge religiously.

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By the time you see it climbing, it might be too late. M54 temp gauges are borderline useless.

Code the temp gauge to be more accurate.


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"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46fanatic

O2 sensors are 100k items. Post cat O2 sensors don't really need to be replaced as they do nothing to the operation of the emissions system. I'd replace those IF they throw a code. The pre-cat sensors are the important ones.



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Originally Posted by ELCID86

Code the temp gauge to be more accurate.


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"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46fanatic

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Good advice.

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Originally Posted by az3579

O2 sensors are 100k items. Post cat O2 sensors don't really need to be replaced as they do nothing to the operation of the emissions system. I'd replace those IF they throw a code. The pre-cat sensors are the important ones.



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BP is correct. 100k is the interval.

So is it bad if I'm at 140k on the originals?

Is there any issue with removing a tail light with the battery still connected, or should I disconnect the battery before I do that i.e. will it throw a code or some issue? I want to swap tail lights.

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Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

So is it bad if I'm at 140k on the originals?

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Not really. If they're not throwing CEL codes then they're probably still good, though you're most likely not getting as good gas mileage as you would with new ones. Those sensors help with mixture preparation, so replacing them could still give you fuel economy benefits even if they're not throwing codes.

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Originally Posted by BMWCurves

Is there any issue with removing a tail light with the battery still connected, or should I disconnect the battery before I do that i.e. will it throw a code or some issue? I want to swap tail lights.

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No issue.

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Originally Posted by danewilson77

No issue.

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Awesome, thanks!

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Originally Posted by az3579

Not really. If they're not throwing CEL codes then they're probably still good, though you're most likely not getting as good gas mileage as you would with new ones. Those sensors help with mixture preparation, so replacing them could still give you fuel economy benefits even if they're not throwing codes.

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I'm still getting the same MPG as when I bought the car 2+ years ago. It's not on DD duty any more, so it's not too big of a deal.

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Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

I'm still getting the same MPG as when I bought the car 2+ years ago. It's not on DD duty any more, so it's not too big of a deal.

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In your case, I'd wait to replace them if it's not a daily anymore. OE ones are expensive, though the OEM Bosch ones are pretty much the same with a significantly lower price tag.

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Originally Posted by ELCID86

Code the temp gauge to be more accurate.

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http://cdn.meme.am/instances/400x/43645155.jpg

Here you go: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...our-temp-gauge

^^^ That's fantastic. I'll have to see if it's something I can take on. Thx!

Am I the only who finds some strange irony in a car with serious cooling problems and a mostly-useless temperature display?

Probably not :)

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I think most of those gauges are like that now. I've been told the oil pressure gauge on my 95 Miata is basically an idiot light, and not a gauge. I imagine the temp is the same.

Reprogram the gauge and keep up with the cooling system maintenance you should not have any worries.

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Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

I think most of those gauges are like that now. I've been told the oil pressure gauge on my 95 Miata is basically an idiot light, and not a gauge. I imagine the temp is the same.

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Really? The pressure gauge in my father's NA Miata definitely registers pressure change as the motor oil heats up and thins out, and you can tell when it is half a quart high/low from the gauge as well.