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This is the part on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GGPSK0U/ The full 3m is too long, but 2m might be too short. The extra can just be stuffed under the console. I had to cut a hole in the inner part of the ash tray (the one with the roll-up door attached) to get the cable through, but that's not visible (obviously!).Quote:
Originally Posted by 328ioc
Awesome. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by blalor
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Nice pedals. Great job on the port. You should do a DIY on that.
Man I want a new set of mats. They look soo nice.
Hm, I can probably do that! Since I had that panel above the pedals down already, it was super easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
Thanks! My old ones were trashed and the velcro backing had torn off. With the pedals, the interior looks almost new, now!Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Hm, been a while since I've updated this thread.
Last weekend I replaced the steering rack with a rebuilt unit from the Rack Doctor. I've been chasing an admittedly-small amount of play in the steering wheel. The rack itself did have some play (input shaft from the steering wheel would turn a little but the tie rods didn't move at all), but there was still some wiggle. The power steering fluid was *foul*; I don't think it's ever been changed in almost 116k miles. I found the high pressure hose from the pump to the rack was weeping and making a bit of a mess, so I replaced that, as well. I went middle-of-the-road on that part; Rein, I think. $99 vs $238 for the OEM part. I figure I can replace it twice and still come out ahead…
While doing some research on what sorts of components fail on BMWs that see lots of track time, I learned that control arms are considered a wear item, so I ordered a set of Lemforder ZHP control arms. Seems the ball joints will fail catastrophically, so smart racers replace the control arms every couple of years. I started installing them tonight and got the passenger side removed pretty quickly, but I can't get the nut that holds the control arm to the subframe tightened with just a socket. I'll have to buy a 21mm combination wrench tomorrow.
With the control arms replaced and the new steering rack, there shouldn't be anything left to wiggle up there, since I've already replaced pretty much everything else. Maybe the steering guibo, but that's easy to do.
I also replaced one of my year-old Koni shocks. The front passenger one was leaking oil pretty badly. Lifetime warranty on those, so I ordered an advance replacement.
It's so funny you say that, because I had a ball joint completely blow on me on the way to the track. I was pulling out of my favorite near-the-track gas station and the driveway is so steep that it hit just the right way and caused my ball joint to blow out. The steering wheel was almost 90 degrees off center at that point with a slurry of yellow warning lights on. The alignment was effed and so was my track day, before it even started. [sigh]Quote:
Originally Posted by blalor
I then replaced with Meyle HD and regretted that, because those failed like a week or two before my track event the next year in the same month. They only lasted about 35k/1 year... epic fail.
I settled with the OE Lemforder ones that you got. They have been a solid choice and have lasted me 3 years or so with still no issues.
They are catastrophically expensive though, so I wouldn't deem them as preventative replacement items just based on the amount of time you've had them. I'd go more based on mileage. They typically last 90-120k miles.
How did they fail for you? Did the ball come out of the joint, or did the shaft shear? And how did that cause warning lights to come on? Glad you got so lucky.
My reaction to the expense was the same as yours, and then I was reminded that a set of control arms cost less than a track day, and that they're really a drop in the bucket in the overall expense of driving a car on the track. Especially if you consider the damage that could be inflicted on yourself, your car, or someone else if you suddenly find yourself at speed with no way to steer.
After poking around at the sample SpecE46 build sheet, BMW CCA Club Racing tech bulletins, and (accidentally, via FB) talking to the BMWCCACR chief scrutineer, I've decided to follow their example and replace them fairly aggressively, probably around 50 days on track if they don't wear out first. That'll be about biennially if I can get on track as much as I'd like to. :-)
I don't know how it failed. I didn't bother checking. The warning lights came on because the steering angle sensor was getting messed with due to the blown suspension component. My steering wheel was almost 90 degrees off when pointed straight, so that sets a few systems crazy.Quote:
Originally Posted by blalor
I mentioned the expense because when I bought the arms, they were nearly $400 a piece! I don't know about pricing now though.Quote:
My reaction to the expense was the same as yours, and then I was reminded that a set of control arms cost less than a track day, and that they're really a drop in the bucket in the overall expense of driving a car on the track. Especially if you consider the damage that could be inflicted on yourself, your car, or someone else if you suddenly find yourself at speed with no way to failed
I don't really see it as being a dangerous no-steer situation... My ball joints faileded catastrophically yet I was able to steer just fine.
50 days on track is a LOT of track time so you should be good to go for a long time!Quote:
After poking around at the sample SpecE46 build sheet, BMW CCA Club Racing tech bulletins, and (accidentally, via FB) talking to the BMWCCACR chief scrutineer, I've decided to follow their example and replace them fairly aggressively, probably around 50 days on track if they don't wear out first. That'll be about biennially if I can get on track as much as I'd like to. :-)