Bueller?.....Bueller?.....Quote:
Originally Posted by fw_fw
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Bueller?.....Bueller?.....Quote:
Originally Posted by fw_fw
Yes, I have one installed.Quote:
Originally Posted by fw_fw
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Thanks!!Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Go with 710 ;-)
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...634c7d995b.jpg
Lawl
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Sent from an S6 Edge
I'm contemplating ordering E46 M3 motor and transmission mounts. The part numbers I have are as follows:
Motor mounts: 11812283798 (2x)
Transmission mounts: 22322282340 (2x)
Three questions:
1. Are those the correct part numbers?
2. Do I need any other parts?
3. I assume Lemfoerder an acceptable brand for the motor mounts (save about $40 a mount over BMW)?
I don't know the answer, but I have the same question.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
You will be fine with these items. Unless you are OCD and want to order new nuts.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Yeah. I'd suggest getting new nuts just in case and b/c you are "in there" anyways.
Come on Vas, who might be OCD on this site?...Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Ha I'm just a stickler for parts with the bmw roundelQuote:
Originally Posted by BCS_ZHP
Someone is selling his Style 197 18 X 8 & 18 X 18.5 ET 34 & 37. What do I need to have these fit a ZHP?
I ordered these from TMS and got Corteco; they feel wonderful installed and seem to be quality pieces. I'm sure Lemforder will be excellent as well. Good luck! I love mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Weird issue... I had the trim plate around the gear shift off to clean before reinstalling Coby shift knob and boot, so I had removed the plugs from the window switches. When I put it all back together, I noticed the switches don't function the same as they did... I think.
At first, both on driver's and passenger's window, the first "up" switch position does nothing, while the second switch position that is usually "express up" is just plain "up".
The weird thing is, while I was messing with it, the driver's window switch started working again, but the passenger switch is still dead in the first position, and just plain up in the second position.
But, now I'm wondering if I'm imagining it, and just don't remember how it worked before.
Thoughts?
Thx!
SC
Not sure about the vert but the sedan, all 4 switches: full up or down=auto, first detent up or down is manual...
Yup. It should be: first pressure point (like focusing a camera using the shutter button) is manual up/down until the button is released. Second detent (like pressing the shutter button all the way down) is the auto up/down.
About the trunklid handle, how is the mechanism attached to the trunklid piece itself? It would appear that it's glued together.
I ask because one of the license plate light covers fell off off, and the post for the bulb had corroded. I picked up a used assembly with a different colored handle, and I was planning on swapping the body color handle, BUT I see that it seems glued together. I didn't want to force it apart. Is there an easy way to separate the mechanism from the handle, or would it be simpler for me to go find a whole assembly in the right color (or unpainted) instead?
I believe Shawn (elcid86) did something like this. Shawn ?
Yes I did. It may need to be heated a bit. Check my red rehab thread (link in sig). I also found a diy online somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by fredo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
OK, at least I'm not crazy. That's what I would have expected.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
So, the question is, did I literally break the switch when I was cleaning it, or is there a way to not get the plug reinstalled properly? I did notice some major crumbs at the bottom of the switch recesses, which is why I took it out to clean it. I didn't yank or pull hard on the switches, but between the vacuum, windex and q-tips, and all the pulling and pushing, I wonder if I just killed the switch or got debris in it. I guess I'll have to pull it out and put a meter on it and see if I can figure out if the switch just died or what.
Thx,
SC
Did you check that the wiring harness for each switch is all the way seated?
I was in my trunk grabbing some oil to put on the motor and a gust of wind slammed my hood shut and finished off my already fragile drivers side kidney grille, I'm looking to buy new grilles.
Anyone happy with their aftermarket grilles? I'm looking on ebay and the prices are good but quality and fitment are questionable.... any leads? Thx homies 😎
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I bought eBay ones and the quality is ok but not really great, I think I paid $45 for them...Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Dynamite
Many members here bought from ecs tuning and they seem to be happy...
Bought ECS Tuning in gloss black....and sold them again a week later. The OE BMW Performance shadowline black grilles just look and fit better. Tischer (getbmwparts.com) has the best price on them with free shipping.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Dynamite
IDK, all eBay grilles we've gotten over the years have been different levels of junk with the set for the e53 being the worst. I had to hot glue them in place to get them to stay. I went with OEM for the ZHP. If you want good grilles, eBay ain't the place...
Yeah I'm thinking of getting the grilles somewhere other than eBay..... thx yall. I hope to get them soon, it doesn't feel good rolling with 1 kidney[emoji40] [emoji28]Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Quote:
Originally Posted by fw_fw
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In case it helps, here's a report on my experience with Bimmian grilles.
In general my transactions with this firm have been troubled- I won't catalog the ways that is so except to say (as a single example): don't expect them to send you any kind of receipt for your purchase.
That aside, my painted grille has been pretty darn satisfactory.
PROS: Paint quality very good. (The black center is unpainted plastic, probably ABS.) The parts are not OEM but are very mechanically stable (i.e. not going to fall out) and I expect them to remain so for a long time. I like having the color choice without having to pay a body shop to modify an OEM grille.Hope this helps
CONS: I don't consider these problematic: others might feel differently. There is a slight issue of fitment in that the curves of the grille are not 100% congruent with the outline of the hood (photo attached). Factory parts have a rubber skirt as part of the rear assembly: this is missing on my replacement part but I can't see any untoward effects. And the Arctic White is perhaps a 99% match to the 10-year-old paint on my car.
Thanks for the review. Aftermarkets when installed are not flush and are very lose when installed. They feel like they are about to fall off. Holding on to my aftermarkets and when funds free up, I will go back to genuine BMW parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dual
I may not have been clear in my post. My aftermarket grill is flush to the body and fits quite tightly. The only fitment issue is a very small one with "roundness" for lack of a better word, as shown in the photo. I'm not a super-perfectionist but close to it. I am happy with the Bimmian painted grille.
No worries. I was talking about the 'other' after markets purchased the ECS Tuning or Fleabay. I have not tried Bimmian.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dual
Although I have purchased their Weisslicht LEDs. They are so fantastic on their customer service. I purchased a set of leds white front turn signals from them. I was not able to open the merchandise when I received them thinking they will be perfect. But 3 months later when I was ready to use them, I found out they were the wrong base. So I communicated with them and they gladly replaced them. I still have the wrong bulbs although I will not be using them. Bulbs are not compatible with any in a ZHP.
Ticher BMW for the BMW Performance Grills.
Def tischner
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Curious, do you guys read the oil level while the engine is hot or cold?
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1. Park the vehicle on a level surface
2. Switch the engine off after it has
reached normal operating temperature
3. After approx. 5 minutes, pull the dipstick
out and wipe it off with a clean
lint-free cloth, paper towel, or similar
material
4. Carefully push the dipstick all the
way into the guide tube and pull it
out again
5. The oil level should be between the
two marks on the dipstick.
As with fuel economy, oil consumption
is directly influenced by your driving
style and vehicle operating conditions.
Who knew? That takes a lot of time...
Thanks,Quote:
Originally Posted by Dual
I have the yellow oil light pop up every now and then after I turn off the car. Oil level is fine though.
Those of you that have replaced the oil level sensor, did you go bmw, or some other brand?
Nice assist. I usually wait 10+ minutes but it might be "ready" sooner.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dual
I think there are other reasons for this. Some engines eat oil and BMW has released a TSB that using 1 qt within 1000 mi can be normal (correct me if I got the numbers wrong).
2 random questions.
1: does anyone have any experience putting an m coupe midpipe on an e36 m3. Someone told me it fits, I just have to cut flanges off and weld up.
2: does $200 shipped for a midpipe, cats included, sound reasonable?
-Holden
I'm going to replace mine on the next oil change. I bought BMW, but BP bought one by Hella and it is the same exact unit as the BMW one, just with the BMW logo chipped off. I would have gone Hella had I known that to save some dough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssparrow
Anyone have advice on where to get some type of vinyl for covering my wood trim? I was thinking something like brushed aluminum look like on the e46 m3s. Open to other suggestions
-Holden