Wonderful!
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Some things I did on the wife's car include removing some horrible fm transmitter that was installed by the previous owner to use as an aux input. Then removed all of the exterior door/fender trim since it was all coming off. Going to just buy all new trim with clips.
Yesterday I read and cleared a P0171 code (Bank 1 too lean) and cleaned my MAF sensor. A few weeks ago I got a similar code like P0174 but just cleared it without fixing anything. One possibility is the aFe blue (oiled) filter is contaminating the MAF. I've had the aFe for about 15 months and have received lean codes 3 or 4 times. Another possibility is the lower intake boot has cracked (I replaced it 3 years ago) or air is leaking in through my DISA or CCV. DISA has the GAS upgrade but CCV might be original (nearly 11 years old). Next step in that area is replace the CCV and associated 4 hoses. At that time I'll inspect the lower intake boot, clean the IACS (cleaned 2 or 3 years ago) and clean the throttle body (never cleaned AFAIK).
Yesterday I was at my daughter's school helping build or paint the set for an upcoming musical, when we had to take a break to let some paint dry. I went home, cleared the code, cleaned the MAF, and went back to the school to help clean up the painting supplies.
Today I replaced the rear stainless braided brake lines (from ECS Tuning) with new BimmerWorld stainless brake lines. The ECS rear lines were a little too short and the BW ones are significantly longer--I will measure both and post the details in the Brakes section. No visible signs of failure on the ECS Tuning lines, just figured 3 years is a reasonable replacement interval, especially since some weight is hanging on them whenever I let the suspension droop fully with disconnected shocks. That shouldn't be a problem with the longer BimmerWorld lines. Next step is replace front brake lines.
Also rebuilt rear calipers with Ate rebuild kits, which contain just a new O-ring and dust boot. They were $25 each from BimmerWorld and while I appreciate their presumed high quality, I noticed RockAuto sells Centric kits for $4 each, and O'Reilly/Kragen sells their own brand (BrakeBest) for $3.50 each. Stop! Yes I know it's the brakes, but when I rebuild the fronts I'll probably get the Centric kits. Rear pistons were in great shape, and in fact I'm not sure they even needed a rebuild. My rear inner brake pads wear faster than the rear outer during track days and one side wore faster than the other so I suspected sticky calipers.
That's a lot of good work done! Top job!
11 years on the original CCV is a no-brainer to replace. I had only 9 years on mine (92k mi) and it was toast. All hoses simply crumbled in my hands. It's likely that there's a possible leak due to that. While you're down there, I also suggest cleaning the idle control valve (ICV), you'll be removing it anyways. ICV tends to get sticky with the gunk. Let me know if you've got questions about this job. I've done mine a few months ago so it's all still fresh in my mind. Also, that's a good time to do the Oil Filter Housing Gasket (if you haven't already). To do the CCV, especially the winter version, you need room to wiggle things together. Removing the alternator really helps for that. With alternator out of the way, the OFHG is only 6 bolts away.