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Yes, but then you get the lines left over that you can't completely get rid of. I would have rather left them on there, but the guy I bought the visors already took them off. I'll have to replace them with euro ones later that don't come with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dual
edit:
crap should have scrolled down more LOL nice work.
Thanks for the good words, folks!
Found them with ECS' help: $98.43 each.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
The modified visors don't really show much damage from the work that was done on them: slightly stretched out and discolored in the area of the old stickers but it's really quite minor. I'm going to let things settle in and see how much of that fades away with time.
Part number for the new ones without the stickers?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dual
81865/81866Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
" If Ordered Now, Ships on May 24th " so presumably shipped in from Europe.
Has anyone paid for the premium Carista app? It's supposed to be able to read/reset all the codes, including ABS and SRS codes. If so, any impressions? I was all set to go buy the premium Torque app, but it apparently doesn't do those.
Oh, another question - I have the two oil common leaks - one at the filter housing, and the Valve cover gasket. Occasionally, I get a whiff of burnt oil in the cabin. If I were to fix one, which would be the more likely candidate for the burnt oil? I've tried locating it with the engine running, but my sense of smell is not good enough to tell which is the source.
(I am checking the oil levels frequently to make sure the quantity doesn't drop too dramatically.
Burnt oil smell would be valve cover gasket... It leaks onto the exhaust heat shield...Quote:
Originally Posted by MrAdventure
This! Just did my wife's X3 this spring, and that's exactly what would happen... Nothing for awhile, then a drip of oil would fall onto the exhaust manifold and we'd get a giant whiff of burnt oil smell. If it was calm, like in the garage, we could even see a little puff. Replaced the valve cover gasket, and all was well again.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrAdventureOccasionally, I get a whiff of burnt oil in the cabin. If I were to fix one, which would be the more likely candidate for the burnt oil?
Quote:
Originally Posted by san
SC
Quick question for the gang... I want a little more sound from the ZHP. More rumble at idle, more burble on downshift, and a little healthier sound when I stand on it. I'm not interested in spending big bucks on headers and exhaust, or even a tuner axle back solution for a grand or whatever.
To be clear, this isn't about performance, but rather sound/fun/enjoyment. I'm not out to be the center of attention and I certainly don't want to be like the kid in the Civic annoying the crap out everybody with the the fart-can mufflers. This is for me, not to show off, and I don't want a bunch of attention at every green light.
So, I asked around and it seemed like a muffler delete was the best option. Of course, videos only show so much, and you never really know when one person says, "It's not loud at all." I scheduled an appointment to do a muffler delete for about $225, but got cold feet on that particular vendor.
I just rescheduled with another vendor, and based on my comments, he's recommending replacing the rear muffler with dual "glass pack"/resonators, and reusing the factory tips, which with labor is about $400. My only experience with "glass packs" is on muscle cars and trucks, where I HATE how they sound... To me, they sound "flabby" or "puffy" or something like that. But, I have no clue what they would sound like on a ZHP.
My instinct is to try the muffler delete, and if that's too loud, then have him add something back, like what he's recommending, or the Flowmaster that some people use.
Knowing what I'm after, can anybody offers any guidance?
Sorry for the long post in the random question thread, but my appointment is tomorrow, and I don't want to just blow a bunch of money trying different things.
Thanks, guys!!!
SC
Vibrant muffler. Look at the thread here for it
Yeah, I remember seeing the video and thinking it sounded nice, but then reading that some people were saying it didn't sound that different from stock, which then made me go back to the "delete" option... Because, why spend money on a muffler if it doesn't sound much different from stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
That's the most frustrating thing... Videos and comments are nearly useless; not because people aren't reliable or I don't trust their opinions, but just because it's all so subjective. My "too loud" and another person's "too loud" might be vastly different.
If only I could have a volume knob so I could just adjust it to suit the mood. ;)
SC
Iono, I feel like it's hard to recommend exhaust especially since you give us no references to what you think is too loud or too soft. I personally consider the sound from a muffler delete isn't that great. It's louder sure, but it doesn't have any defining tone. I would probably start out with a resonator delete. I believe we have 2 on our cars. Normally for slightly louder, it's recommended to delete the one closest to the muffler. If it's not loud enough, delete both. I'd do that before doing the muffler delete tbh.
The OFHG is a very straightforward fix, so I"d do that too.
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Is it leaking (I didn't read the whole thread)?Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
so I need to buy a new exterior trim moulding for my passanger door . does anybody know if it comes with the clips ?
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No
Can anyone point me to the Best power steering fluid for our cars??
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I would be comfortable with any reputable synthetic DEX3 ATF. Just change it regularly.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
I should do that this weekend...thanks for the reminder!
Something like this?Quote:
Originally Posted by ryankokesh
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-...allon/15125768
And how much of it would I need?
Yup!Quote:
Originally Posted by san
If you use the turkey baster method seems like people recommend a quart. I used two the first time I did it to make sure everything was new.
http://www.impee.co.uk/powersteering_fluid_change.htm
Thanks a lot Ryan!Quote:
Originally Posted by ryankokesh
Np, good luck!Quote:
Originally Posted by san
:thumbsup
Somewhere way back when....some guy showed me to disconnect a fitting from the steering line somewhere below to drain the whole fluid system. Unfortunately, all I did that time was to just watch and no retention. I should have paid better attention then.....Quote:
Originally Posted by ryankokesh
I just picked my car up from an alignment and didn't notice the rest to settings until I got home. They set rear toe to 0 deg instead of .1 in. How will this effect handling and should I take it back?
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ad17aab367.jpg
-Holden
They used e36 m3 specs with 17 inch wheels on your zhp? Um...Quote:
Originally Posted by hcbeck2689
Haha, no it's the m3. Regardless zero toe should effect ride the same no matter the car. Just wondering if I should have it toed in, like I originally asked them to do. All other toe and camber was done per my instruction.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Do the rear sway bar end links have the same life expectancy as the fronts?
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The rear end links are just a rubber bushing. If you look at them and they are cracked and dry rotted then I'd replace them but you wont get a knocking noise upon failure like the front ones unless the rubber falls out completely...
Gotcha, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
So I have these codes. P0456, P0442
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...98d88883bd.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...5c6aae5841.jpg
And found this tonight. DMTL leakage. I assume they are all related. Not sure about the implausible petrol tank level...?
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...4670c7f43c.jpg
Think it could be the emissions diagnostics pump?
Gas cap?
I'm pretty sure I threw a po442 when I ran my car with no muffler. I cleared it after the muffler was put on and never came back
-Holden
Quick question for you guys... Wifey's '07 X3 break pad indicator just came on. Front rotor definitely has a serious lip on it. 46k miles on the car. Knew it was coming. Local indie shop I like quoted me about $800 to do rotors, pads, and sensors on all four corners using Textar and Zimmermann parts. I know I can DIY for about half that.
I don't love wrenching, but I also don't mind wrenching a little to save some money, especially if it's a relatively easy job. But, brakes... Even though it seems like a pretty easy job, I've never done it, and I'm leaning toward letting a pro handle it and using that half a Saturday to do something else. Especially since it's her DD and can't just sit there for a day or two if I need a tool or something.
The reason I'm asking here is my ZHP has close to the same mileage, and I'm thinking about Hawk pads and maybe doing some decent aftermarket drilled/slotted rotors at the same time this summer. So, same basic (relevant) question. Pay pro or DIY?
Thanks, guys!!!
SC
Diy
DIY Don't forget, he's probably marking up the parts too... Although they probably ain't cheap....
Brakes are easy. I'd DIY it for sure. Just soak the rotor retention screw with PB blaster for a day or two before you start as though suckers like to seize up.
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And replace them with ss screws
or just coat them with anti-seize and don't tighten them much... they're only there to hold the rotor on when the wheel is off...Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
I get the gas cap light first. And then the SES with p-codes pop up. I did replace the cap with no success.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Did you check the evap canister for leaks?Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86