Nah, took about 3. I had to stop for lunch.
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Nah, took about 3. I had to stop for lunch.
My rear carpets are wet from when I washed my car. I'll probably be back inside my door panels soon. If I have to replace my vapor barriers, I'm not going to use the OEM foam insulation. Instead, I'll use thick plastic sheeting/clear vinyl and butyl rope for vapor protection. $44 a door be damned!
But wait, there's more!
If you've been following this thread, you know that I installed sound deadening onto the outer skin of the door. It really solidified the door feel. This type of sound deadening is NOT a replacement for the foam style OEM vapor barrier. It only stops panel resonance. Let's discuss the other levels below.
The next level after controlling the panel resonance would be to add some type of thermal insulation:
https://store.secondskinaudio.com/he...r-made-in-usa/
This should be attached to the outer door skin and should help with maintaining the interior temperature of the car. After working inside the door panel, I noticed that there is significant heat radiated into the interior from the door cavity and outer door skin. Hopefully this will reduce that.
After controlling the temperature, we still need an acoustic blocker of some sort. That's where these two come in to play:
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.co...aded-vinyl-mlv
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.co...-cell-foam-ccf
Ideally, they'll prevent noise from entering the cabin through the doors of the vehicle.
New tree clips, and trim holder clips.
I should lube up the regulators, clean the window tracks and lube those up as well since I didn't do that the last time.
I might remove the window glass and strip that 5% tint off too.
From left to right:
Thermal block (thermal insulation), closed cell foam (used for decoupling and rattle prevention), MLV (the acoustic barrier)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1905/...568a3116_z.jpg
I was going to tell you to check the seal on the sunroof but it looks like you don't have one?
I do have a sunroof. I'll double check the drains and seals. They should be in decent condition as this only started happening after I replaced my regulators. Coincidence?
Mine started leaking and it was a bad seal on the sunroof... that's why I mentioned...
Everyone's favorite tool! The headlight was removed to grant easier access to the P/S lines.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1913/...76e4d3b7_z.jpg
This was my view for a few:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1930/...830a8ac3_z.jpg
Then there was this. Again, not bad for 180k miles and 16 years:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1957/...528ab198_z.jpg
Money Shot!:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1929/...40323bb2_z.jpg
Pump nut still good:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1940/...6f5aa67e_z.jpg
Replaced this o-ring:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1927/...70f6e33a_z.jpg
And the one under here:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1915/...6a4c5261_z.jpg
Eventually, I got to this point:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1945/...573334ec_z.jpg
I think I broke my dipstick. I know I poured over 7 liters of oil in this thing and it still reads halfway on the dipstick...whatever, I'll keep an eye on it.
Nice! Hope the dipstick thing works out.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Nice work. I swear the dipstick on these cars is useless. Mine reads dead in the middle even if I'm low enough to set the oil sensor light off.
The Bentley says capacity for RWD cars is 6.9 liters, but I've seen 7.5 referenced elsewhere. The extra bit is probably because of the oil filter taking some oil as well. I don't think the listed crankcase capacity accounts for the filter despite saying so, because 6.9 liters is never enough for my oil changes.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
When are you reading your oil level, cold or hot engine? The manual says to read the oil level about 5 minutes after shutting the car off (engine warm). I used to check it when cold before seeing that. It's also possible your sensor isn't quite working properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Exerpt:
Checking the oil level
1.Park the vehicle on a level surface
2.Switch the engine off after it has reached normal operating temperature
3.After approx. 5 minutes, pull the dipstick out and wipe it off with a clean lint-free cloth, paper towel, or similar material
4.Carefully push the dipstick all the way into the guide tube and pull it out again
5.The oil level should be between the two marks on the dipstick.
I'm reading it when hot, cold, sexually aroused, everything. It always reads the same and I ended up replacing my oil level sensor because it kept tripping even though the dipstick read fine. Then I drained out like 5L on the next oil change. Whoops.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579