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If your replacing that part, either grind the heads off or drill out the heads. You could grind flats into the sides of the heads and use a wrench but that would be really tedious...
or maybe grind a slot across the top of the head and use a screw driver but if they are frozen in there, that probably won't work
Thanks Rob!
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"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous
:biggrin
PBlaster and a T20 did the trick. Need to drive it now.
Older Bosch DMTL pump comes apart. New one is sealed. Here's the innards of the old one.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...68f004f617.jpg
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"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous
Glad you got it apart with any grinding or drilling... :thumbsup
Yes, you have to do the wiring with an LOC near the amp though. Unless your amp already accepts line level inputs.Quote:
Originally Posted by GotZHP
I have a brake warning light on with the emergency brake functioning OK and no codes on OBD-II. Suggestions?
Worn brake pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dual
Sent from my LG V10 on Tapatalk
This. Or could it just be the sensor?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Much appreciated, folks. Seems really obvious, I know, but I'm used to a different car.
Brake question. Never been replaced since I've never owned the car. Was inspecting them when I rotated the tires, and I'm thinking they're close to end of life. Replace both rotor and pads together? I think the rotor is toast?
Fronts
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...1f0c80b2ee.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...484174d372.jpg
Rears
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d6145449c3.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...44bc3e1b32.jpg
For rotors, feel the lip. If you can feel one with your finger, it's about time to replace.
As far as pads - the pics make it slightly hard to judge, but I would say that based on what I see, the rear pads should get done at this point as well. They technically have a little more life left in them, but if you're getting new rotors, then new pads are the way to go. The fronts appear to have decent life left.
If you got OE rotors, then the rotors are designed to wear with the pad, so by the time the pad is gone, the rotor "should" be replaced as well. That is why there is excellent braking performance with the OE setup, though that is also why there is so much dust. If you're going aftermarket, then disregard this comment as it may not apply.
Good advice BP. I've got about this much lip on mine. I guess it's 'bout time.Quote:
Originally Posted by TigerTater
Hmm pics aren't showing in the post. Maybe a TaT setting?!
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...99753be207.jpg
I can see the picsQuote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
By those pictures it is time for new pads and rotors.
This. Replace both.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
S7 Edge, out
OK, so I'm bringing in my car to have the passenger airbag replaced, and I'm having them replace my valve cover gasket too (it's leaking, and I'm lazy). I'm talking to the service manager, and he starts telling me that, given the mileage (140k), I should also replace the valve cover itself, "because they can warp, too". Their price for the VC is $470, so I'm going to pass on it. I've had that gasket replaced on other cars before, but never the VC itself. I've never heard that before.
Was he blowing smoke or is there any truth to what he's saying?
What a mess-- TaT.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
no more "Zhp is garbage....." sig?Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've heard the same from an indy mechanic and have read the same on a forum (E46Fanatics?). The valve covers warps since it is plastic. When just the gasket is replaced the leak will start again. And then both the cover and gasket have to be redone.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrAdventure
The cover itself runs $320 on ECStuning.
Understood, but how often does it happen?Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
TaT let's you post or not post it (sometimes).Quote:
Originally Posted by san
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"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous
Not sure, seems to be case by case. It seems like cracks in the cover are a bigger issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrAdventure
http://e46valvecover.com/e46-warped-valve-cover/
I would just replace the gasket.
Plastics....Rubber parts...the dread from a hot engine if left unchecked. This is the main reason why I open my hood after I return to my garage and cool the engine down as soon as possible. Engine bay will remain very hot since hot coolant will still be flowing in the engine. Heat deteriorates plastic and rubber parts.
What is this Gizmo thingy?
Outside air temp sensor? The wires to it got all messed up when the air duct panel it is attached to decided to come unattached :/
Build thread has more for those who are interested (shameless plug :innocent:p )
Yup, ambient temperature sensorQuote:
Originally Posted by GotZHP
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Does it do anything other than provide the temperature for the read out in the car?Quote:
Originally Posted by san
I don't think so...Quote:
Originally Posted by GotZHP
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
your HVAC system won't work correctly without it....
I think BP keeps a few spares on hand based on his bad luck with this specific part ! :duckingQuote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Heated mirrors definitely rely on this sensor. When it detects it's 37 degrees out, it'll turn on the heated mirrors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Sigh.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Interesting, I assumed the HVAC system was dependent upon the ambient air temp sensor, but didn't think about the mirrors.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Do all e46s have heated mirrors?
I'm pretty sure all U.S. spec E46's have heated mirrors. Not sure about euro spec.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Sent from my LG V10 on Tapatalk
Even though I've had plenty of ice in the car in sub-32 degree weather, never had frosted mirrors somehow.
When you flush your brake fluid, you should flush the clutch line as well, correct?
Never done it once since I've owned the car. I've bled my brakes dozens of times since I've owned it...Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
You shouldn't have to touch the clutch line unless you have a problem...
Interesting. I figured you flushed the clutch line at the same time since it shares the same fluid as the brake fluid. So I shouldn't need to touch the clutch line during a flush, even if I'm changing brake fluid brands?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
The only time you'll have a problem with it is if the reservoir runs completely dry...
I don't take old fluid out, I just flush new fluid in, so I never had to touch the clutch.