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I've done some research, and am confused as to the battery I need to purchase for my car. It seems like the most recommended battery, Duralast 49DL, is no longer available.
I'm planning on getting one from Pepboys, because they have 35% off on batteries right now (plus it's Bosch, which may have been OEM)? The parts finder on their website shows a Group 94R regular lead/acid battery and an H7 AGM battery as fitting. However, I also read that the Bosch 49-850B may work.
Opinions and experiences?
IIRC Interstate is now making OEM replacement batteries for BMW
Pretty much all batteries world wide are made by one of three (or so) manufacturers. Originals were made by Varta. I think in the US replacement batteries tend to be East Penn (Deka) or Exide.
In my (many) years of buying batteries, for cars, trucks, and motorcycles...batteries are batteries. There is the occasional "defective" battery that does not last, however most batteries these days come with a replacement warranty that should cover the "defective" period. FYI, I located an Exide battery (L3/48X) that is showing as being sold at a Home Depot near me for $109. I paid more than that for my motorcycle battery.
Sorry it's Exide... I looked at my batteryQuote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Thanks for all the replies on batteries! :cheers My current battery is an Advance Auto Titanium with a production date of Aug. 2007.
I usually get the low engine oil level warning (amber light) in between oil changes (4000Kms - 6000Kms after an oil change), which is quote normal due to minor oil leaks etc. Since I had not received one in quite a while, I decided to check the oil level manually and I found the level to be lower than even the minimum mark on the dipstick. Ofcourse I topped it up with 5W30 BMW LL engine oil I had lying around.
Question: Has anybody experienced the oil level sensor to go bad in a way where the low level warning does not light up anymore? I have read on various other forums that usually when the sensor is dying, it would light up amber after the car has been started...I never experienced that.
It would only ever warn me about low level by lighting up for about 15 seconds after I turn off my car. Right now when I turn the key to position 2, the light comes on amber for a second and then followed by red and once I turn the engine on, it switches off.
Any tips would be awesome!
Anyone know if the hole for the coolant drain plug the M54 has a raised lip? Can't decide if what I'm seeing is a washer stuck to the block or if I lost the washer somewhere and I'm actually trying to remove part of the block itself.
Not entirely certain what you're asking but the bung between cylinders 1&2 for coolant plug is on a curved surface so it would have to have a machined flat surface.
Am I looking at a stuck washer here (sure looks like it to me), and if so, anyone have any tips for how to get it off? Prying at it just marred the surface
http://i.imgur.com/mCF1Yr0h.jpg
It's hard to tell as I can't zoom in on the pic but the outer right side looks to thin to be a washer and an aluminum washer against an aluminum surface doesn't make a lot of sense
I experience the same thingQuote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
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RealOEM does show an aluminum washer thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by wsmeyer
Interesting. Not sure what the purpose is but I'm sure they have a good reason
You mean the amber light does not light up even though you are low on engine oil?Quote:
Originally Posted by rguti153
Quote:
Originally Posted by terraphantm
Yes, a copper washer goes there. I bought an Elring one from FCP when I ordered the rest of my cooling system, Elring P/N 242.608.
Looks to be the same shape and thickness of what you have "stuck" there...
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/cop...8-elring-18671
What if you tried something like dental floss to try to pry up under it?
Well I got it off and it's definitely an aluminum washer. Dealer washer is also aluminum. Either material probably is fine.
http://i.imgur.com/UASC3mch.jpg
Damn, that thing was on there!
Those sensors are known to fail. I thought they throw a false warning when they fail, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
How's my diff bushing look?
Slight crack on the right, maybe?
Attachment 26466
yea, it's starting to fail. Time to start thinking about replacing it...
I don't daily the car any more.
How many miles you think it has left?
I'm planning on overhauling the cooling system. Should I replace all the tensioners and pulleys or just the pulleys themselves?
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Hard to say... there is a lot of torque on that bushing but if it took this long to tear... I'd just put it on your future to do list.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
I just replaced the pulleys on mine, the bearings were shot. I have 141k on the carQuote:
Originally Posted by FungShui
Yea I already have a replacement bushing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
I recently learned that all Zhp's came with heated side mirrors and when the ambient temperature drops below 0C, they heat up...
Is this accurate?
If it is, then will the mirrors heat up even when the mirror's ribbon cable is broke?
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37 degrees Fahrenheit is the magic number. Below that, they heat up.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Quote:
If it is, then will the mirrors heat up even when the mirror's ribbon cable is broke?
It depends on what kind of 'broke' we're talking about here. My original ribbons had some slight damage to them, but they still heated up. I can see a damaged cable not allowing to heat it up though, so it's case-by-case.
Thanks for correcting me!Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
I am not sure how bad the damage is but I cannot move either of them using the switch and it is not a switch issue... But I guess the ribbon cable in mine is snapped cause my mirrors did not heat up this past winter...
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i'm like 99% sure they can be coded off, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
You know now that I think about it, the notification for possibly freezing temps comes on, but I'm having doubts about whether it turns the heating on for the mirrors. Pretty sure it does as I remember having warm mirrors at slightly above freezing temps, but who knows. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by san
If the driver's cable is damaged, neither side will work. This I know for sure. :)Quote:
I am not sure how bad the damage is but I cannot move either of them using the switch and it is not a switch issue... But I guess the ribbon cable in mine is snapped cause my mirrors did not heat up this past winter...
But why would you? lolQuote:
Originally Posted by slater
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I think Peter is talking about the 37° warning chime
Is this just ZHPs or all 330?
Are you talking about the ribbon cable damage affecting both mirrors, or the 37 degree mirror heating?Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Ribbon cable damaged on the driver's side affecting both mirrors affects all E46's with ribbon cables. Not all of them have ribbons.
37 degrees affects all E46's that have heated mirrors, which I think in the U.S. should be all of them.
Additionally, many of these seals/bushings/hoses rot from the inside out making visual detection of pending failure impossible.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
S7 Edge, out
Anybody know the part number for the driver's door window regulator? I need one ASAP and I'm onsite so I can't look it up
Front Window Regulator - LeftQuote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Part number 51337020659
Cost from various vendors for OE BMW Part
The BMW Mini Parts Store - $119.94
BMW of Fairfax - $122.52
ECS Tuning - $135.70
FCP Euro - $ 134.99
ECS Tuning and FCP Euro have free shipping right now.
Thanks Vas!
bookmarked for later. I need to do this, but refused to take on the job until I have to.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
wowzers. i just replaced one for a friend's 2002 325iT, left front. OEM was too much money for him, so i got a chinese one from a local place for $42 and change, CAD, delivered to my door. it actually was not bad at all and worked fine...Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
it wasn't bad. took me an hour start to finish.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy