'04 AW/Blk coupe project (engine replacement first)

Okay, I thought it's time to start a project thread. I've never chronicled a project before so here goes nothing... I hope it can provide some motivation for others who DIY (especially on jack stands) as others' project threads have for me.

The background of the car and my acquiring it can be found in this thread: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...lk-project-car

Cliff's Notes version: I bought the car knowing it had an overheat event and that the engine will need replacing. The condition of the exterior and interior was sufficient for me to go ahead with the purchase (Thanksgiving 2017). I thought I scored a good engine from a low mileage (~65k) ZHP from Texas and purchased it off of eBay. Well, long story short the engine was no good (low compression), so I lost the $300 gamble (return shipping; I pre-negotiated full refund if engine was no good).


Photos from the welcome/introduction thread:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6O...l=w950-h712-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Q6...L=w950-h712-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4-...C=w950-h712-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2M...a=w950-h712-no



Coolant in cyl. 3 (and also 4):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zy...T=w534-h712-no


...


Puting the car aside for about a year, I found an engine in the classifieds on ZHPmafia, it was local too. ZHPmafia coming through! http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...-2005-330i-ZHP Thanks, Marc. Spent a weekend helping to pull the engine and moving it back to my house.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_V...0=w848-h636-no

Engine acquired. Start accumulating parts and staging the car for the transplant.

I figure I'd replace the usual suspects, including:

• Cooling system: radiator, expansion tank, hoses (including the heater circuit since engine will be out), water pump, t-stat, 1.4 bar coolant cap, o-rings for the coolant pipes attached to engine block.
• Engine: Beisan Vanos seals and rattle kit, m56 valve cover (get rid of convoluted CCV), oil pan gasket, various o-rings (for both cam position sensors, crank position sensor, and oil pickup tube to pump since oil pan will be off), intake manifold gasket, vacuum lines that are crusty, throttle body to intake manifold gasket, air distribution pipe o-rings to intake manifold, OFHG gasket, pulleys, tensioners, belts, exhaust manifold gaskets (reusing my headers), oil filter, oil, intake elbows.
• Trans: oil and filter
• Guibo, CSB.
• Diff oil.
• Filters (cabin and intake)

...wallet hurts... bank account hates me...

Maybe I should have chosen video games and Netflix as a hobby.


First, move the car to the other side of the driveway and put it up on jack stands (my red-sled in the background):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HK...s=w848-h636-no


I figure I'd take the engine+trans out along with the subframe. So, off with the bumper, headlights, radiator+support, etc.

I knew mice/rats lived in our neighborhood...I've seen rat droppings in the engine bay when parked for days/weeks at a time. I guess it's safe from the predators.

Evidence of their presence:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vD...8=w848-h636-no

Smelled as bad as it looks.

The bastard(s) left some bedding, a nest:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gy...M=w495-h659-no


... intuition said not to stick my hand in there...


...turned out the nest was also a burial site. A big one:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fT...k=w495-h659-no

Hope that's a lesson for the rest of them.

Next, wash off the urine/feces/smells/left overs of dead rat:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6X...c=w848-h636-no


This will do for now:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RA...k=w848-h636-no

Drain the oils (didn't get one of the engine, but equally dark)...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F8...8=w848-h636-no

This will do for now. I need a break. Turning attention towards donor engine for a while.

Here we go on the donor engine... It had about 65k miles and appeared well taken care of.

Yup, very clean under the valve cover:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZK...I=w848-h636-no

hmm... where to start...

Vanos seals, done. Plug for Beisan Systems:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rM...k=w848-h636-no


Another simple one, spark plugs. I love NGK:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Tn...A=w848-h636-no

From my non-expert eye, they look alright:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cN...w=w848-h636-no

While working on the top, I cleaned up the m56 valve cover and slapped that on. I didn't want to deal with the CCV and its bundle of brittle, waiting to crack, pipes. Been there, not doing it again:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GX...Q=w848-h636-no

Ok, feeling good, check-list getting check marks...

This was an interesting find... a threaded plug on the back of the cylinder head appeared to be seeping:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TN...k=w848-h636-no

... no wonder it was seeping, the plug wasn't tight. But it wasn't loose either, kind of like a finger tight... oh well, I'll replace the o-ring and snug it up... or that's what I thought. Unscrewed the plug and found that the threads weren't there for almost the length of the plug:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PS...w=w495-h659-no

WTH? it seems like it was just friction fit, albeit loosely. No wonder it wasn't tight. No bits of aluminum came out when I unscrewed the plug, and none in the hole... where'd the threads go? Probably in the pan and out with the old oil at some point. Oh well. It is what it is. Apparently the plug is M10x1.0. Most Helicoil type repair kits are M10x1.5. Off to Amazon.

Threads repaired:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1v...E=w495-h659-no

Used some gasket maker and some blue loctite since it's on the back of the cylinder head and won't be accessible once engine is back in:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F1...Q=w495-h659-no

Time to replace some coolant pipe o-rings and do some clean up since I have everything out of the way:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eu...4=w495-h659-no

Another surprise... what the heck happened to this o-ring. It seems like it was jacked up when they assembled the engine (or replaced this coolant pipe). Maybe it was assembled on a Friday afternoon. Nevertheless, very un-German. Oh well, glad the o-rings are replaced. Pipe looked good otherwise:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ie...U=w495-h659-no

Onto the other pipe, the one that runs along the base of the cylinder head from the front. And another surprise... anyone see what's wrong?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Uz...0=w495-h659-no

...

yep, this pipe wasn't in as good of shape:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cT...Q=w495-h659-no

Oh well, glad I found it and got the broken pieces out of the cooling tract. My wallet hates me again.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lv...M=w495-h659-no

Cleaning the exterior of the engine will distract me from my wallet:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kF...4=w495-h659-no

Yeah, I got carried away with taping up the threaded holes. My trusty compressor will blow-dry the engine anyways:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gu...g=w848-h636-no

The other side:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tD...Q=w848-h636-no

Ok, break time... sit for a while and admire the m54 - better than modern art in my opinion.

More to follow.

Moving on...

Replaced the t-stat and water pump, both OE manufacturers per FCPEuro. But yet another surprise. The impeller of the OE replacement (Saleri) doesn't seem as finely finished as the BMW unit. What ever, it'll do.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4m...I=w848-h636-no

[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VV...w=w495-h659-no[/IMG]

Feelings of accomplishment abound. Time to turn attention towards the oil pan. It was pretty clean, but might as well since I was replacing the oil pan gasket. Feel free to enjoy the day's news in Chinese:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dn...c=w848-h636-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Oe...A=w848-h636-no

Inside was clean, just like underneath the valve cover.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kS...0=w848-h636-no

I took the opportunity to replace the oil pickup tube o-ring, maybe it was compression-set, maybe not, but it was cheap and I was in there anyways. Clean bottom, everyone likes a clean bottom:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dM...U=w848-h636-no

Oil pan back on, nice and clean:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IP...g=w848-h636-no

Coolant pipes back on, too. I wiped them down with some 303. I wipe down all the plastic parts with 303 aerospace protectant - it's like Armor-all, but actually effective:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L0...U=w848-h636-no


Onto the OFHG. I didn't go with the viton one from Bavauto, I hope I don't regret it. It's pretty easy to replace from the topside if I need to do it, so I'm not worried about it:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7m...Y=w495-h659-no

Now to the intake manifold. New gasket (yes, for cylinders 1-3 as well, just not in the picture). Yep, wiped down the manifold with 303 (the bottle is in the background lol). Did I mention I love that stuff? Maybe I'll buy some stock in their company.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1o...Q=w848-h636-no

Knock sensors back on, intake manifold and OFH back on... it's looking like an engine again:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KO...c=w848-h636-no

That's it for now. At this rate, the transplant should be done in late 2020. :facepalm

Oh, something else I learned: SuperClean is very effective, and the only difference between the Foaming and regular version is the spray bottle. I've been refilling the Foaming version spray bottles from a gallon jug (which doesn't say Foaming), but it continues to foam.

I'll update it after some more progress.

Saved for later

Good looking white coupe. Sounds like you will have a sweet ride with a strong engine in the not too distant future. Good luck.

Good progress here. Are you sure it's a 2002 ? I'm pretty sure the ZHP started on 2003. :dunno

Good luck on the project!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by johnrando

Good luck on the project!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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Thanks! I figure it's simply turning a wrench for the most part (and the hit to the wallet, and time and effort involved... like i said, just turning a wrench. Lol)

Quote:

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Good progress here. Are you sure it's a 2002 ? I'm pretty sure the ZHP started on 2003.

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Hmm. you're right. Maybe a typo on my part. The car is a 2004, and the engine was from a 2005. Soooo.... does that make this a 2004.5 now? :biggrin No, I don't think it does. But it's good to know the engine has 34k fewer miles than the one I'm replacing.

Quote:

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Good looking white coupe. Sounds like you will have a sweet ride with a strong engine in the not too distant future. Good luck.

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Thanks! That's what I was thinking, too. It just seemed "too nice" of a ZHP for it to end up at a junkyard/pick-n-pull. It'll be a nice car once done, both mechanically and aesthetically - that's the goal, anyways. And, yes, hopefully in the not too distant future. One step at a time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fredo

Good progress here. Are you sure it's a 2002 ? I'm pretty sure the ZHP started on 2003. :dunno

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Hahaha, I just noticed the typo in the title of the thread - good eye! Typo is now fixed, thanks for pointing that out. :)

A bit more progress today: alternator and pulleys are on. It's looking more and more like a complete engine.

I went with INA pulleys/tensioner, and reused the alternator (after a generous hosing with Electromotive to clean off the built-up dirt/dust/"gunk." The water pump pulley is an ECS metal one that I've had sitting around for a few years. I probably purchased it when it was offered at a discount, can't remember. Originally, I was going to put it on my '01 330i, but for some reason decided the original plastic one was still good. Now it's getting put to good use. The plastic parts are still okay, in my opinion, but since I had it laying around I figured "why not."

The sharpie marks on the nuts and bolts are just for my reference, indicating that it's been torqued appropriately.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o0...o=w848-h636-no

Okay, finally got some progress to report.

Got a G.A.S DISA repair kit, glad the DISA in the bad engine was a BMW OE unit and the diaphragm was holding vacuum.

As others have noted the GAS kit is well made, very high quality. I went with a Viton o-ring, for a few cents more, why not:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HF...Y=w678-h509-no

The old DISA was just flopping around, the plastic socket of the flap was rounded out:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yw...I=w530-h706-no

All done, probably took 30-45 minutes working slowly (and getting distracted by text messages):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ea...A=w530-h706-no

Next up, I noticed the intake manifold had a plug and o-ring seal. It goes between the runners for cylinders 3-4. I guess the earlier cars (maybe < 03/'01) had intake temperature sensor that plugs in and this plug just seals up the port. I thought I'd replace the o-ring, who knows maybe it was compression set and leaking? Probably not, but now I have more confidence in it. The o-ring is cheap (8x3, PN: 13-62-1-743-299).

New one is 8mm ID x 3mm. The old one measured about 2.67-2.72 mm (variance due to elasticity of material and the Harbor Freight caliper; good enough for this application):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a5...A=w530-h706-no

Good as new:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ie...c=w530-h706-no

Ok... onto the meat and potatoes (engine extraction). I had to disconnect the fuel lines, took the opportunity to replace the fuel filter. Glad I did, the old one looks to be original - date stamped "13 04 04" - and the mfg date of the car is 04/04. Oh well, new filter, and even a new used engine to go with it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fH...E=w194-h259-no


Link to video of black fuel pouring out of filter. That's original for sure.

...

Back to prep for engine extraction. Disconnect the transmission selector cable:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WZ...I=w678-h509-no

Lots of road grime, will get a thorough cleaning before going back in.

Disconnect the other hoses, cables, brake lines and sensor.

Remove the exhaust. This thing is such a pain in the butt. One piece from header to exhaust tips, wth. I'm sure they saved a few bucks on nuts/bolts/gaskets. Pain in the butt. Good thing I had a couple extra jack stands to support the damned thing when unbolting. I really need to buy a lift. PB Blast on the header bolts/nuts for 30 minutes or so and it was relatively easy with a breaker bar. It's out:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6E...Q=w530-h706-no

No action shots of the engine being pulled out, too busy doing it to take photos. I enlisted the help of my mom to hold the AC condenser and AC compressor (I didn't want to have the system recharged as that would be extra $$) while I pulled the engine/trans/subframe/front suspension out in one unit. I used a Harbor Freight transmission jack under the transmission (seems appropriate) and a HF engine hoist to the front lift point. Just wheeled it out. I forgot to disconnect the headlight level sensor from the control arm... and the arm of the sensor broke... doh! :facepalm. It is what it is.



...and it's out. Mom checking out our good work (gloves make her an official helper. :thumbsup lol):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d5...8=w530-h706-no

This is a milestone. :applause2 Lots of good feelings (even with the broken sensor).


Driver's side of the transmission. This will be cleaned and the transmission filter and fluid will be changed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f1...I=w678-h509-no

Engine bay will be cleaned - have to eliminate the remnants of the rats. Hoses will be replaced, and electrical connectors will be cleaned with Electromotive or similar type of spray.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Pv...k=w530-h706-no


The garage is full... I need to get these parts back on the car so I can park a car in here again:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RV...Y=w530-h706-no

While the wheels were off I took them to Costco and got a set of Michelin PS4S at the end of 2018 when they had a great deal (it was like buy 3 get 1 free), they're under the work table.

Nice werk!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by johnrando

Nice werk!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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+1

Sent from my Note 9 using Tapatalk

Thanks fellas. It feels good to make some progress. Reading and seeing photos of others' projects motivates me to work on mine.

A little more today. First up, clean up the engine bay and remove remnants of the rats. Looks a lot better now:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Cy...A=w848-h636-no

I found this while cleaning up, damned rats. It'll have to be soldered and covered:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Kg...Y=w848-h636-no

I guess it'll be good practice since I think my M3 has the same problem. Damned rats.

Moving on. Since I have easy access, I changed the heater core coolant hoses.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V_...E=w536-h714-no

It seems the Rein hoses are OE, unless they only use OE BMW clamps, which is doubtful:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uN...8=w536-h714-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0N...s=w848-h636-no

Now onto cleaning up the transmission. Before:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6L...k=w848-h636-no

After:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aW...4=w848-h636-no

And since I have easy access, replace the trans mounts. Lots of deformation over the 99k miles. I went with Lemforder.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gy...k=w848-h636-no

And since the engine was out, it was easy to install the siren for the alarm (no picture). Installed the tilt sensor as well as the inside sensor:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7M...s=w536-h714-no

It's nice that the car was prewired, kudos to BMW for that. I'll get it programed after the car is running.

Not much more progress than moving things around the garage in preparation of mating the engine to the trans. The old engine will have to sit in the driveway - I can't imagine someone taking it, but if they do at least they will save me the trouble of disposal. lol.

Damn man, props on doing this all on jack stands! I rebuilt my front end on jack stands after my fender bender and di some maintenance items like the oil pan gasket. So much easier with a lift but almost everything can be done on the stands!

Really wish I could say my oil pan was as clean as yours. It took an hour to remove all the scorch lines, previous owner did not do good Maintenance :(

Do you plan on keeping the A/T or going to swap that too?

Also, I've seen a few coolant pipe O-rings like that before. Maybe they weren't pre-lubed going in? Or they were just jammed into the holes. I did this by accident with my dipstick tube and ruined that O-ring. When I smoked tested the car I was like wtf? But luckily a really cheap O-ring was the fix.

How much did the inside sensor cost you? Also, what does this do?! lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GotZHP

Damn man, props on doing this all on jack stands! I rebuilt my front end on jack stands after my fender bender and di some maintenance items like the oil pan gasket. So much easier with a lift but almost everything can be done on the stands!

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Thanks! Yeah, doing this on jack stands wasn't ideal, but it's what I've got to work with. I'm glad I spend the extra money for the Esco jack stands. You're right, just about everything can be done on jack stands and the proper motivation. The project threads on this forum and others help to inspire and motivate me to get after it, otherwise Youtube and Netflix are so much less work haha.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GotZHP

Really wish I could say my oil pan was as clean as yours. It took an hour to remove all the scorch lines, previous owner did not do good Maintenance :(

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I was lucky with this engine, the PO took good care of it as evidenced by the clean cams, top end, and pan.

My previous '01 330i was not like this, it had the typical yellowed varnish and much thicker layer of crude in the oil pan while the exterior looked messy as hell from a bad oil pan gasket. PO's mechanic repaired leak with some gasket maker wiped onto the outside, can't blame them... the labor costs for a $20 oil pan gasket is significant.

I've found that Super Clean works the best, along with elbow grease. Not sure if it's just me, but it is oddly satisfying to see things cleaned.

As a side note:
I've also started using a P95 mask for vapors when using these chemicals on cars, or when there's fuel and oil vapors around. I'd rather not breathe in fuel, oil, and detergent. The minor discomfort of a mask is easily forgotten once my mind is focused on the job, but the peace of mind from not having that stuff in my lungs last a long time. This was a lesson learned when I was doing a leak-down test on another engine... I didn't feel too well afterwards (chest and sinus congestion, as well as slight headache). I know it's for paint vapors, but the difference is noticeable (3m P95 mask). I noticed a difference as soon as I was done and removed the mask... that's when I could smell all of the chemicals in my garage - yes, garage doors are always open.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GotZHP

Do you plan on keeping the A/T or going to swap that too?

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I think this car is going to stay the way it is, unless the transmission starts to give me crap. This car was just my "large Lego project" as I'm planning on giving this car to my brother once completed. He's currently driving my old '01 330i, but that thing wasn't in the best of mechanical condition when I got it, much better once I did the usual suspects (OFHG, oil pan gasket, cooling sys, etc). This one's in far better shape, a better foundation for longer termed ownership. I do, however, still prefer the non-Ms in the sedan, which that '01 is. However, the e46 coupes are still one of the best looking cars around. Just a great car, imo.

I have a e46m3 6mt so I won't have any e46 withdraws - I just wished BMW did a better job with the cooling system (of non-Ms) and the window regulators. lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GotZHP

Also, I've seen a few coolant pipe O-rings like that before. Maybe they weren't pre-lubed going in? Or they were just jammed into the holes. I did this by accident with my dipstick tube and ruined that O-ring. When I smoked tested the car I was like wtf? But luckily a really cheap O-ring was the fix.

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Yeah, the coolant pipe o-ring was strange, probably just jammed it in there with some twisting during installation. Glad it's fixed. I always use a little bit of silicone lube on the oring and mating surface whenever I install pipes/hoses with o-rings now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GotZHP

How much did the inside sensor cost you? Also, what does this do?! lol

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Are you referring to the inside ultrasonic sensor for the alarm? I think it detects when a window gets broken. It was all 1 kit (siren, US sensor, tilt sensor) that I found from a junked car. I think people sell these for about $100 on e46fanatics. The cars are prewired for it, and just takes some coding to have it active.

P95 are def and improvement over an N95 but they will not stop all vapors and contaminants. They will help with oils but wont help with some solvents. If this is something you are worried about I would recommend a half face respirator. A box of 3m p95s can cost over $20 depending and a half face starts around $40 and will last a lot longer with proper care.

Also, if you want to stay with a dust mask, I recommend the Moldex AirWaves

I am an EHS Manager and have to buy safety supplies as part of my job :)

Sent from my SM-G935R4 using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GotZHP

P95 are def and improvement over an N95 but they will not stop all vapors and contaminants. They will help with oils but wont help with some solvents. If this is something you are worried about I would recommend a half face respirator. A box of 3m p95s can cost over $20 depending and a half face starts around $40 and will last a lot longer with proper care.

Also, if you want to stay with a dust mask, I recommend the Moldex AirWaves

I am an EHS Manager and have to buy safety supplies as part of my job :)

Sent from my SM-G935R4 using Tapatalk

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Thanks for the heads up! I'll definitely look into a half face respirator. Do you have any recommendations?

I started wearing it after my bad experience with the leak down test a year ago. I don't want to experience that discomfort/damage again. Also, I starting thinking about this stuff after taking some interdisciplinary occupational health courses with many of the industrial hygiene folks.

A slight detour of my project, but still e46 related (cross posted on m3forums):

I picked up my red sled from the body shop today. Long story short I rear-ended someone on the freeway last month. :facepalm:

Thankfully no serious injuries, no airbag deployment, no frame damage, no drivetrain damage. But the initial tally of parts and labor made me fearful insurance was going to claim total loss, thankfully that didn't happen.

Lots of parts up front had to be replaced, an incomplete list: hood, bumper, bumper reinforcement, radiator support, radiator, airbox, headlights, grills, AC condenser, aux fan; pretty much all new OE BMW parts. Fenders refinished and paint matched to existing hue.

Before:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...8=w950-h712-no


After:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OK...g=w950-h712-no

PSA: Give yourself an extra car length; drive safely. :thumbsup2:

Many thanks to my friends at Signature Autobody in Orange, CA. Owners are car enthusiasts and great guys, check them out if you need repairs or paint and body work.

Next on the list: replace the fog lamps and get cleared bra'd.


-------------
Back to the regularly scheduled program...

Hopefully I'll have some updates on the ZHP next time I post.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Will

Thanks for the heads up! I'll definitely look into a half face respirator. Do you have any recommendations?

I started wearing it after my bad experience with the leak down test a year ago. I don't want to experience that discomfort/damage again. Also, I starting thinking about this stuff after taking some interdisciplinary occupational health courses with many of the industrial hygiene folks.

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Can't go wrong with anything 3M for a half face respirator. If you want something a little bit cheaper check out a company called North. They were recently bought out by Honeywell and have great products for the price.

Damn, sorry to hear about your accident! Looks very similar to the one I was in. Car looks great after though!


I still need to track down a better hood and want to replace my front bumper but need to make some more $$$ first.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GotZHP

Damn, sorry to hear about your accident! Looks very similar to the one I was in. Car looks great after though!


I still need to track down a better hood and want to replace my front bumper but need to make some more $$$ first.

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Thanks! My friends did a great job with it. I'm very thankful for them and for no injuries from the accident.

I feel you on the $$$, hope you can get it done; I'll be looking out for your updates!

So it's been a while since I've updated this thread, frankly there wasn't anything to update. More parts came in and finally some progress. Lots of photos. Here we go:

Replaced the ICV gasket/tube, unsure if it was leaking (probably not), but I figured why not change it:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DF...A=w931-h698-no

I forgot to get the o-rings the first time around for the VANOS solenoids, got 'em in this box of parts:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8y...w=w931-h698-no

Got these parts in and this side of the engine is looking like an engine again:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K-...Q=w931-h698-no

Some Redline for the diff and some new plugs. I made an utter mess of it while draining the old fluid, about 3/4 of it went onto my arm and over the ground... quite a mess. Cleaning the mess up was not the funnest way to spend an hour, but it had to be done - no photos of the mess, too embarrassing and I was too oily to handle the camera.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Jg...g=w931-h698-no

At 99,7xx miles and with the exhaust off I figured I'd change the CSB and the guibo. Both looked good, but the "while I'm in there" habit got the best of me. I forgot to take a photo of the new CSB and new butyl strip. It's weird, my m3 didn't have butyl on the CSB.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XQ...4=w931-h698-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tr...0=w931-h698-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cI...A=w931-h698-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ui...Y=w931-h698-no

I also took the time to change the driveshaft centering bushing. Inner diameter was too small for a pilot bearing puller and slide hammer. Bentley's says to pack with grease and to let the grease push it out. I didn't want to waste or clean up a bunch of grease. I've heard of people using wet bread for the pilot bearing too, but I didn't want to clean or waste bread. I just used bits of paper towel and water. An 8mm deep socket (with bits of wet paper towel to plug it up), an extension and a few hits with a rubber mallet did the trick:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XJ...0=w931-h698-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5p...U=w931-h698-no

Ok, onto the injectors. I was too cheap to send them in for a cleaning, so I shade-tree'd it.

First, remove the old injector filter. Insert a #10 sheet metal screw a few threads deep, and some twisting and tugging worked:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6z...c=w931-h698-no

Injector on the left has old filter basket, the one on the right is after its removal:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H9...k=w931-h698-no

Then in a manner similar to what GotZHP did, I rigged something up for cleaning the injectors. Carb cleaner, some shrink tubing, a 9v battery and leads to cycle the injector, and some spraying onto my garage floor... ghetto style:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4v...0=w931-h698-no

Old o-rings and filters out, new ones ready to go in. About $13 for the set from ebay. O-rings in the kit are supposedly viton.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hu...o=w931-h698-no

Ready to go back in:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9A...s=w931-h698-no

and back in:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/07...4=w931-h698-no

I keep forgetting to take photos while I'm working. But the new exhaust studs came in and the headers and new heat shield/gaskets went on with new header copper nuts:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rN...Y=w931-h698-no

New O2 sensors. At about 100k miles they're due to be changed - they fail progressively from what I've heard.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/n_...k=w931-h698-no

Before rejoining the engine and transmission I decided to change the torque converter-to-trans seal. Here's the old one:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/99...g=w931-h698-no

Torque converter side (Old on the left, new on the right):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vn...8=w931-h698-no

Trans side (old left, new right):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SH...c=w931-h698-no

New steering coupling while I'm at it. This was a mistake at this point, those that's done this job will know what I'm talking about..

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3N...s=w931-h698-no

Now the big stuff... engine and trans going back in. This was a bitch of a job. Extra hands are needed, I enlisted the help of mom and dad. Not only were they great help, but I think they had a lot of satisfaction in being able to help with this project. Having removed the trans on my m3 for a clutch/flywheel replacement I can say it's infinitely easier to properly torque the engine/trans mounting bolts while the units are out of the car - duh!. lol.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MO...g=w931-h698-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gq...M=w931-h698-no

Two photos and it's in, voila! Yea, right. I wish it were that easy. It probably took a solid hour (I kept the AC system sealed so that was an added headache). Time for the subframe/front axle assembly to go back in.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/93...k=w931-h698-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I6...M=w931-h698-no

I still need to double-check some nuts and bolts as well as reconnect the shifter linkage, but the drivetrain is back in the chassis.

Some shots from underneath... will need some cleaning too.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P2...A=w931-h698-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0x...c=w524-h698-no

I'm exhausted, so things will have to wait until tomorrow. Feels good to make some progress. More to follow...

Now that's some progress! Damn!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ZHPizza

Now that's some progress! Damn!

---

+1

^ ^ thanks fellas.

Ok, update time. Some small stuff, some bigger stuff; progress!

Some small stuff, like the vacuum hose ends from the "F" connector and the fuel pressure regulator.

Before:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qZ...s=w483-h643-no

After:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3a...U=w858-h643-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cA...I=w483-h643-no

These small items bring me such joy to replace and "get right." lol. I have some fuel hose coming in to replace those hoses from the fuel filter. They don't seem to be leaking, but the rubber is surely degraded since they feel gummy.

I saw this exposed wire from the AC compressor, some shrink tubing with some meltable sealant inside (Harbor Freight "marine" version) should suffice:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tF...0=w858-h643-no


It was tricky, but I had to split the shrink tubing, and then use a bunch of small zip ties to hold it closed while I handled the heat gun. The results should suffice:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fx...Y=w858-h643-no

Up next, the positive jump-start terminal. The cap was broken at the hinge, it really bugged me so I fixed it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BT...o=w483-h643-no

Some more small stuff, the MAF o-ring:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hr...s=w483-h643-no

Out with the Purolator air filter the PO used, and in with a MANN OEM filter. The Purolator was very very clean, but it bugged me so out it went:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GC...4=w483-h643-no

Cooling system parts ready to go:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WA...s=w858-h643-no

A little "macro" shot to show the status. Lots of blue tape with notes of Low Fluids / No Fluids.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QD...c=w858-h643-no

Power steering hoses, just cleaning them up and replacing the seals (o-rings and crush washer). First up, the high-pressure hose at the power steering pump. I double checked and realized there should only be a o-ring and no crush washer so the washer was removed from the pump-side:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Hw...g=w483-h643-no

The o-ring was misshapen, instead of round it's now conical. Unfortunately I didn't take a photo of the new one, but just imagine the conical shape as a regular donut shape of an o-ring. lol

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1k...8=w483-h643-no

Transmission filter is next. The nasty transmission oil still dripping out.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4O...E=w858-h643-no

Remnants of the old fluid, no doubt it's original (99,721 miles):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6l...uiLKdA=s643-no

New fill and drain plugs:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/s8...8=w858-h643-no

No photos of the Redline D4ATF going in, too busy pumping it in and way too oily to handle a camera/phone. Just imagine clean red fluid.
The process? I turned the crank about 30-40 times after topping off the trans using the transmission oil pump to circulate new fluid through the torque converter, the cooling line, and radiator mounted cooler. After hand turning the engine 30-40 times I topped off the trans fluid again, usually 1/2-2/3 qt each time. This process took forever... I repeated the crank/top off process until clearer red fluid was coming out the trans cooler outlet. Then reconnected the hose leading back to the trans and repeated the process another time to fill that return hose. I got as much of the old fluid out as possible and then closed it up for now (will need to recheck level and top off after warming up).

The last time I did this for a friend's ZHP I just used started the car for a few seconds then shut off to top-off. I also shifted the trans from P through D1. This car wasn't running so this method will have to suffice. But boy, it took a long time and so many turns of the crank. I'm exhausted, but as a bonus I got quite a workout and will probably sleep well tonight.

Onto the rear brakes, they needed replacing. Went with Zimmerman rotors and Textar pads. The Zimmermans feel much better quality than the Centrics I bought for my M3.

Passenger side:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YG...w=w858-h643-no

Driver's side:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3u...Q=w858-h643-no

Exhaust and heat shield is next. I used some Super Clean and a brush to get some grime and old oil off first. I kept my OCD in check this time. Sometimes good enough is good enough.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r6...M=w483-h643-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VO...I=w483-h643-no

I took a wire wheel to knock off some rust from the inconel header-to-exhaust studs and the flange faces. Then put some copper anti-seize on the threads before installing the exhaust with new gasket and nuts. For a one-man operation a transmission jack is invaluable. The muffler placed on the jack helped to ensure a better alignment during reinstallation (sorry, no pics of the ghetto-rig).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zD...c=w483-h643-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Pa...c=w858-h643-no

I think the underside is just about done. Will need to crawl back under to double check some items (e.g. trans fluid level after warm up, and change the fuel hoses at fuel filter inlet and outlet), but good for now.

Replacing the aux fan and mechanical fan with an electric one. Thanks, Mark for selling me your extra one.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4p...I=w858-h643-no

Took the opportunity to spray down the backside of the air duct with some 303. Hopefully it'll keep it from cracking in the miles ahead. I love that 303 stuff.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IS...o=w858-h643-no

Back together:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EG...A=w858-h643-no

Last image, charging the battery with the trusty old CTEK - another brand I love. The battery will need replacing but at least this will get the car operational for now.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JC...Q=w483-h643-no

These things took a few days, but feels good to make progress. I refilled the PS system (will need to turn the wheel L-R a few times when the car is running), no drips so far so that's a good, but real test will be under pressure - fingers crossed. Also, I filled the cooling system with 50% BMW coolant and distilled water and let it circulate through the heater core. 2 gallons in, so just a final bleed when the car's running. No drips yet, so the o-rings and new parts seem to be working ok. Again, the real test will be when everything is pressurized and heat cycled. Fingers crossed.

A big thanks to all those who post and update their project threads, browsing those definitely helps me to push on. And it's great to see enthusiasts putting in the love to keep these older cars on the road. They might be old, but I think BMW really hit a sweet spot with the e46 (all variants. This can be said about the e39 too, another fantastic car of this era, especially the m5).

Nice werk!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Damn dude you're killing it. Thanks for sharing your progress here.

^ ^ Thanks fellas.

A little more progress today, I can start to see a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel...

New fuel filler cap. The 15 year old original rubber o-ring was nicely cracked around the perimeter, so with my last parts order I just got an OEM unit - got one for the m3 while I was at it too.

Old vs new:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7T...g=w887-h665-no

After some light cleaning of the filler pot (rubber surround), I hit it with some 303. Just a gratuitous picture of it installed:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tO...E=w887-h665-no

Ok, this one is a little weird, but progress nevertheless. When initiating the engine replacement my brother and I thought we needed to remove the hood for clearing the hoist arm, so we began to disconnect the windshield washer nozzle wires. Unfortunately, we cut a couple wires when unbundling the wires from under the tape. Bummer. but it can be fixed so I got it done today.

The bundle:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9i...Y=w499-h665-no

The cut wires:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XJ...0=w887-h665-no

The fix (crimps and some shrink tubing):
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dm...c=w499-h665-no

Protecting the other wires from the heat gun:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mo...Q=w499-h665-no

After the heat gun:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rt...0=w499-h665-no

Taped up the bundle:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NE...M=w499-h665-no

I guess I'll find out if I connected the correct wires to each other. I think I got it, though. Used a little deductive reasoning to match up which ones matched (basically, as I unbundled the tape I took note of which cut ends were closest to each other... you know, MacGyver stuff. lol).

That's it for now. Thanks for viewing; push on with your projects!

Looks good, man. Keep 'em coming.

Keep pushing!! This is good stuff.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

^ thanks fellas, thanks for coming along for the project.

A little more progress to report.

Replaced the fuel hoses and clamps going into and coming out of the fuel filter. I don't think anything was wrong with the originals, but I didn't like the fact that outside is becoming gummy.

Purchased the Continental OEM fuel hose, it even had "BMW" printed on it. haha.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xx...4=w513-h684-no

New one on the left.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zb...k=w912-h684-no

I got some new hose clamps too. I didn't like how the original pieces weren't hex heads (it's like two flat sides with a sloped face so that it can only be removed with a flat-head screw driver but not tightened unless you use vise grips or the like).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nR...E=w912-h684-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_4...Y=w912-h684-no

The old BMW Exide battery wouldn't charge - I wasn't surprised - so off to Costco for an Interstate. I was deciding between the Costco Interstate or the Walmart Johnson Controls battery (I have one of these in the m3 and no complaints), but I went with the Costco unit for a couple bucks less.

Topping off the charge:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jp...w=w513-h684-no

Brake fluid flush is next. The old fluid look gross, the color of maple syrup... glad it's out. The new stuff, ATE SL6 is clear, a very light straw yellow.

Old stuff coming out:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rn...k=w513-h684-no

New stuff coming out (different corner, but old stuff was same color as above):
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MW...E=w513-h684-no

A bottle of the old. This quantity was the remaining fluid after disconnecting the brake lines (fronts were removed for engine/subframe replacement, and rears were disconnected for pads/rotors).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7B...Q=w513-h684-no

Just a gratuitous photo of empty bottles of D4ATF and other bottles/cans ready for recycling.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4u...k=w513-h684-no

As she sits, with some wheel well covers cleaned and 303'd.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PX...U=w912-h684-no

Almost there... almost....

...almost there... just a minor update.

Since I installed the m56 valve cover to replace the PCV bundle of snakes I had to plug up some unused vacuum ports.

First up, the port near the back of the engine on the air distribution rail:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vl...U=w532-h709-no

Next up, make the connection between the valve cover and the front port on the distribution rail. I first tried simply using the m56 hose (not my photo, taken from bimmerworld):

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Vent-Hos...7513756-sf.jpg

but the plastic hose was too brittle and broke when making the bends.

So, I had to Macgyver something that I think will work. I took the ends of the two hoses to keep the connectors, one from the m56 hose for the valve cover side, and the one from the PCV hose on the air distribution rail side:

Cut the hose off:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5a...Y=w532-h709-no

I couldn't use both connectors since it wouldn't "click" onto the air-rail side, hence my using the hose end from the old system. Convoluted, I know.

This photo better shows my setup. I don't like how many potential failure points (ports to plug, etc) there are, but it should do.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Sa...k=w532-h709-no

Installed. There's a kink in the hose, I think I'll find a 90 degree elbow fitting to eliminate it. Trade offs... keep the kink, or introduce two more potential failure points for air leaks with another splice to install an elbow.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FT...c=w946-h709-no

As she sits... just about ready to fire up. I'll try it tomorrow after I install the battery, turn the key to position 2 and check for fuel leaks. Fingers crossed... I'll either be really happy or really disappointed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6h...U=w532-h709-no

Moment of truth, I decided to fire it up today. Turned key to position II, checked for fuel leaks and none found from the fuel filter nor the injectors so that's good. I was concerned about crossing up the o2 sensor connections since I forgot to label them during disassembly, but I just placed the connectors in their holders based off of cable length and routing (from old photos) and then hooked them together. I think it worked and I got lucky... in the future, more labeling.

Then, crank. Wouldn't fire. Let it rest for a minute.
Then, crank... cranks but won't fire. Let it rest for another minute.

Then, crank and it fires up... runs sounds like a diesel truck, a little lumpy and lots of ticking. It's aaaalive! albeit a little sickly, but it's running. :applause Shut it off after 30 seconds.

Check for fuel leaks, random smells, found nothing serious (just remnants of cleaner smoking off, which cleared up in a minute).

Here's a video of first breath... my mom's excitement was captured in the recording "wwwhhooooo..." complimented by a couple claps.. hahaha very funny, very cute. :applause2 (sorry, I know youtube would be easier, but I don't have a youtube account and am too lazy to set one up):

I think you'll need to click on the video after clicking on the link to hear the sound.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wzHP4MRTrJiBoTG57


The EML light was on. I ran the codes and cam position sensor code was on as well as the ICV code was on. I found the CPS connector wasn't fully pushed on, and the ICV connect wasn't even connected. Doh! :facepalm Cleaned the connectors and securely connected them. Cleared codes and fired it up again. No codes! :applause Injectors are really loud, but smoother, and no codes.

Some observations, the injectors are LOUD... I was concerned for a little bit, but I let it run for about 5 minutes, let it get up to temp, bled the cooling system, shift through the gears (P-R-N-D, 1,2,3, D-N-R-P). Shut off the car and go look for leaks. No leaks, so far so good. :)

After a few minutes I fired it up again, this time the injectors sound much much quieter, still loud, but much improved. You can hear them quiet down as I rev it up to 1500-2k rpm, so that's promising:

(click on video after clicking on link to hear the sound)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/beZAEfjausivSTY58

Shut it down. High-fived myself, and did a walk-around looking for leaks. I damaged a leaking FR brake hose - probably when I removed the front subframe/suspension and forgot to first undo the hose (I'm an idiot). Well, I'll just get a set of SS lines for it. My bank account hates me.

I checked the lights, all turn signals/corner markers, headlamps/high-beams, brake lights, parking lights work. So that's good. Turned on the AC and that blows cold, so that's a success. I think I'll need to run this tank of fuel down and get some new gasoline, I bought this car Thanksgiving 2017 and lord knows how long this fuel's been in there... probably since middle of year 2017. I should have put some Stabil in the tank at the time, but I didn't. Lesson learned.

Things to do:
- Wait for the SS brake lines to arrive later this week, install them, bleed the brakes.
- Check the cooling system for proper bleed.
- Check/top off the AT fluid. I want to do this while the car is still on the jack stands. Will jack up the rear a little more so the trans is level.
- Put the wheels back on.
- Shake down drives around my street.

Then go to AAA to get a temp registration permit (hopefully I can get a multiday temp permit) so I can drive around and get the sensors to be "ready" as well as run this tank of fuel down and get some new fuel in it prior to smog test.

Overall, I'm really happy reaching this milestone. I'm glad the car's running, it's a huge relief. I was concerned all this $$$ and effort would result in a dud.

I think I'll celebrate with a beer.

Congrats! That's awesome! Definitely should be a happier engine once you can get some fresh gas in there. Haha

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tomnobes

Congrats! That's awesome! Definitely should be a happier engine once you can get some fresh gas in there. Haha

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

---

Thanks! Yeah, I think so too. I'm very happy right now, but more than happy I think I'm relieved. Biggest DIY project I've done so far. I think I'll need a break from projects for a little bit and focus of finishing grad school before another project.

I think the loud ticking noise is noisy lifters rather than injectors. The noise diminished substantially after the previous runs.

I'll try the BMW TIS procedure (no load rpms at 3k for 5 minutes, and back to idle, repeat 3 times if necessary) to see if it goes away. Fingers crossed.

Makes sense. The lifters are crazy loud on these engines.

Congrats!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ZHPizza

Makes sense. The lifters are crazy loud on these engines.

Congrats!

---

Thanks! Yup, the noise is definitely lifters... man, it sounded like a diesel farm tractor! Idle's nice and smooth now. So eager to get it on the road.

Another minor update.

After warming up the engine and transmission I raised the rear end of the car with the jack so that the trans was level (used a cheap Harbor Freight bubble level).

Added an additional quart of the clean red stuff:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i3...k=w424-h565-no

I thought I had damaged the FR brake hose so I ordered steel braided hoses. Well, I found out the leak was a slightly loose connection between the hardline and the brake hose. Doh. But since the SS hoses came in I rationalized to myself that I should just install them and bleed the brakes again. It was an easy rationalization, haha! But a side benefit was that I bled the fluid again, and a good amount came out that was still amber colored (not as dark as the previous photo but still amber, sorry, no photo before I put it in the can).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ns...I=w754-h565-no


I also added a homelink:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...M=w754-h565-no

A pleasant surprise was I found the car already had a microphone installed. I'm wondering if it had the BMW handsfree option.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RO...c=w424-h565-no

After spending some time to wipe down my tools and put them away I spent some time to wipe down the interior vinyl and plastic with some 303.
While doing so, I discovered something I found pretty funny. Courtesy of the PO. lol.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4t...k=w400-h600-no

This was the easiest - and cheapest - to fix on the car:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OI...I=w424-h565-no

As she sits, on new Michelin PS4S, will need a thorough cleaning and polishing:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v0...M=w754-h565-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BE...U=w754-h565-no

Looks just like when the tow truck dropped it off, but now it runs under its own power. I took it around the parking lot on my street (Not registered, not insured yet so no real roads until Monday at the earliest) and the first thing I noticed was I'm going to need some sway bars. Even at 10-20 MPH I noticed how much more it rolls. A/C blows cold, heater hot. Eager to get it smogged, registered, insured, and on the road.