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Thread: The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

  1. #7791
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Toronto, ON
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    904
    Quote Originally Posted by Galapolis View Post
    Do it
    Quote Originally Posted by alexandre View Post
    Wow these shops are great, didn't know these existed!
    Yeah ordering from Europe is the best for these kinds of things... when I got my Sparco bucket seat I got it for ~$500 CAD or so out of a store in Italy. To my door including shippings + taxes it ended up being right around $700 CAD. And I could easily sell it on kijiji or fb marketplace for $850 or $900.

    Still doing more research and found a couple more places, one of which is LLL Parts out of the UK. 400 Euros is a pretty good price, especially if shipping isn't too much!
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  2. #7792
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
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    Decided not to go with an euro bumper, actually decided not to get my front bumper repaired at all. I threw some touch-up paint over the scrape a few days ago and from 10 ft away it really isn't bad. Of course when you get up close you see the scrape along with all the peeling clear and rock chips on the whole thing, but given how much I track/autox I really don't want to have to "care" for new front bumper paint. I also might be having another cross-country road trip towards the fall, and again it's just so nice to be worry-free with the front bumper.

    I did spend a decent amount of time researching where to get a good deal on the euro bumper though. I've found that OEMVWShop has the best price with shipping. LLL Parts was even better at just over 400 Euros but they won't ship to Canada. E-Acca wanted 200 Euros to ship.

    Going to get the rear bumper fixed for sure though, that one really bugs me
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  3. #7793
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    904
    Fuuuuuuuq



    Any ideas? Easiest solution is bondo fibreglass repair kit but I'm not too keen on it. Or I guess I can hire a mobile welder...

    Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  4. #7794
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,045
    Quote Originally Posted by t.er View Post
    Fuuuuuuuq



    Any ideas? Easiest solution is bondo fibreglass repair kit but I'm not too keen on it. Or I guess I can hire a mobile welder...

    Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
    Is that the battery tray? There's a big thread on nam3f on that if so

  5. #7795
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Toronto, ON
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    904
    Quote Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
    Is that the battery tray? There's a big thread on nam3f on that if so
    No, one of the spots under the rear footwell where the drain plugs go. I did see that thread (and will be looking into it as well) but the sheet surrounding the plug has fully rusted through.

    I have an appointment with the body shop on the 28th for my rear bumper. I may just leave the interior stripped and patch the hole with a few layer of duct tape in the meantime if he can weld it shut.






    Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  6. #7796
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    619
    Damn that sucks! Yeah, that thread on nam3f for battery tray was pretty good; time for wire wheel, weld, POR15, and some chassis sealant (or just get some bedliner material).

  7. #7797
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Toronto, ON
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    Quote Originally Posted by Will View Post
    Damn that sucks! Yeah, that thread on nam3f for battery tray was pretty good; time for wire wheel, weld, POR15, and some chassis sealant (or just get some bedliner material).
    Luckily my battery tray is fine. Some very minor surface rust that can just be treated and painted.

    I'm taking the easy way out, but for good reason. Slept on it and decided to just fibreglass it - the hole is twice the size of what is was originally, but in the grand scheme of things still relatively small so it's not that structural. And having prior composites experience definitely helps, a good repair will be sufficiently strong.

    Grinded back the top and bottom of the panel big enough for a good amount of healthy metal exposed, for the fibreglass and resin to latch onto. Before doing so, going to treat the metal to POR15 metal ready to prevent cancer spread. Then apply multiple layers of plain or twill weave fabric (not chopped-strand mat that comes with the 3M kit) with differing fibre orientations on the top and bottom. Then POR15 paint and top coat with stone chip guard.





    Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  8. #7798
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    619
    Nice work, man. Glad you caught it relatively early and got it addressed.

  9. #7799
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    May 2020
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by Will View Post
    Nice work, man. Glad you caught it relatively early and got it addressed.
    Thanks! Just gotta spray a couple coats of rubberized rock chip guard, and it'll blend in much better. It is pretty solid - 10 layers of plain weave fibreglass, distributed between the top and bottom of the hole.






    On another note does anyone know what this is? It came out when I removed my battery. I'm reinstalling it now and it seems it's not needed. Had a quick glance at realOEM and I don't see it



    Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  10. #7800
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    619
    Wow, 10 layers of fiberglass. ...So ZHPizza building airplanes and you're building boats.

    That looks like part of the screw clamp for securing the battery cable terminal to the battery post.

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