Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    2,127

    Help! My effin' wheels will not come off.

    Like the title says, I can't get my wheels to come off. I've taken out all of the lugs and tried everything I can come up with. I think the problem is that the aluminum wheel and the steel rotor have had some electrolysis issues and almost fused themselves together. I've sprayed penetrating lube in between them, in the lug holes where they meet, hit the tire with a hammer from all directions, used a piece of wood as a buffer and beat on the wheel all over. I have played with a pry bar but that would really mess up the wheel. What else can I try?

    Thanks,
    Kyle
    19" VMR VB3 CSL reps w/ General G-Max 3 A/S, BMW Performance short throw shifter, CDV delete, M54B30 swap, and a redneck CAI.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Posts
    15,433
    Damn, Kyle. You've thought of everything I would have suggested. I can see how you're progressing to new levels. I'm guessing that shotgun is next?

    OK, Mafia, let's help Kyle get these wheels off.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    2,127
    What do you think? 12 gauge Benelli with double ought or 20 gauge Winchester with #2 steel?
    19" VMR VB3 CSL reps w/ General G-Max 3 A/S, BMW Performance short throw shifter, CDV delete, M54B30 swap, and a redneck CAI.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Posts
    15,433
    I'm kind of partial to that Italian shotgun.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    2,591
    Can you get behind the wheel and strike towards the outside of the car? (safety first here of course) And if you have a 3lb sledge it would give more strike force than just a hammer. but definitly use a block of wood to protect your wheels. I would not recommend a pry bar at all.

    never had this problem before. Is it all the wheels, or just one so far?
    "No, Donny, these men are nihilists, there's nothing to be afraid of"

    09 135i Msport 6mt
    04 330i ZHP (sold)
    David

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western WI
    Posts
    3,059
    Quote Originally Posted by Mtnman View Post
    Can you get behind the wheel and strike towards the outside of the car? (safety first here of course) And if you have a 3lb sledge it would give more strike force than just a hammer. but definitly use a block of wood to protect your wheels. I would not recommend a pry bar at all.

    never had this problem before. Is it all the wheels, or just one so far?
    This.

    I've had to do it before and it works well. Go buy some anti-sieze before you put it back together.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Ocean County, NJ
    Posts
    7,273
    Hands at 3 and 9 o'clock on the wheel and rock back and forth (pushing at 3 while pulling at 9, then pulling at 3 while pushing at 9). Just keep working it until she comes free.

    Mine were on there really good the first time I had to get them off. Giant pita-- took me about 10 minutes to get each tire off.
    -Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
    ZHP Pre-Ride Briefing

    2005 ZHP, Alcantara, Silver Cube, Nav, Sharked, BMW Perf Intake, BMW Perf CF Strut Brace, CF Valve/Fuel Rail Covers,
    Shadowline Grills, CF Splitters, Fog Light Inserts, Euro-mirrors, CDV Delete, Beisan vanos, GAS DISA, BP Coded

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,935
    I like lowering the car slightly and putting some pressure on the wheels. With the lug nuts off....this many times will allow them to pop off. I have also used a small piece of 2x4 from the inside as stated.

    As a preventative measure...I will apply a micro thin layer of white lithium grease to the hub prior to install.

    Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    2,127
    I've had minor issue with this before on my E36s but usually a simple 'whack' would fix it. Both fronts are solid and I have yet to try the rears. When it goes back together, I'm putting a good coat of axle grease on the surfaces that will be touching.
    19" VMR VB3 CSL reps w/ General G-Max 3 A/S, BMW Performance short throw shifter, CDV delete, M54B30 swap, and a redneck CAI.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    2,127
    Got it. I used a piece of 2x6 set so that the edge was about 1.5 inches under the inside of the tire and lowered the car onto it quickly, with the lugs still in but loose. Popped off after the second drop. Thanks for all of the help, guys.
    19" VMR VB3 CSL reps w/ General G-Max 3 A/S, BMW Performance short throw shifter, CDV delete, M54B30 swap, and a redneck CAI.

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