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Thread: BMW 330 ZHP alignment and data + Pics

  1. #141

    BMW 330 ZHP alignment and data + Pics

    It didn’t reset itself last time. I had the DSC and BRAKE lights illuminated until my Indy reset it.

    And if I got ripped off I got ripped off. They got it aligned when the other local folks couldn’t. It’s great that you were able to get an after hours special somewhere for a fraction - always nice to have those resources. I just don’t - and I work 70 hours a week typically, don’t have time to really shop it hard.

    FWIW, the local Firestone charged $124.99 for a one time alignment with a coupon, couldn’t do it, and left my steering angle sensor improperly calibrated. So the premium seems worth it. Living in Seattle isn’t cheap...

  2. #142
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    516
    Strange. I know the E39 doesn't calibrate itself but I was under the impression all our cars would, at least from my experience.

    I once paid a sketchy tire shop to do an alignment. They charged $110 and after even after returning 3 (!) times, they couldn't get the steering wheel to be straight. Very incompetent. Fixed it myself in a matter of 5 minutes in the parking lot. It's definitely hard to find good alignment places.
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

  3. #143
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    3,541
    You can easily recalibrate and reset your steering angle sensor via INPA and Tool32.

    Center your steering reading steering angle sensor ECU in INPA so it’s super close to zero. Then you can either use INPA if the function is there to recalibrate sensor or google search the use of Tool32 within INPA to recalibrate if the function is not available in INPA. I did it on my friend’s E39M.
    --Trevor--
    Vancouver, BC

  4. #144
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    202
    Thanks for the info on Hunter systems. Need to have my front struts replaced after 155K miles and figured I would get all four wheels aligned after it is done.
    2004 330i E46 with ZHP performance package and cold weather package

  5. #145
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    SC
    Posts
    109
    So I've read through this and a bunch of other threads on alignments, and I'm still not quite sure what I should instruct the tech to do for my ZHP Vert...

    For a street-driven car with stock ZHP suspension that we want decent tire wear out of, but also decent performance, where on the scale do we want toe and camber? (I know tire wear and performance are at odds, but I'm looking for a balance between them)

    Do we want total toe to be somewhere between .1 and .2 degrees?

    And then if the toe is low like that, camber doesn't quite matter as far as eating the tires? Or is it still better (regarding tire wear) to have less negative camber, closer to 0?

    Apologies if this has already been clarified. I feel like there are so many conflicting posts Thanks in advance
    Last edited by drummr8; 05-28-2021 at 08:55 AM.

  6. #146
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    516
    Depends on how you drive. You can run massive camber and still get outer wear if you drive really aggressively. You can also run stock camber and get crazy wear. You have to match it to your driving style.

    I run 0 toe front and 0.1° in the back (0.2° total) and -2.1° camber in the front and -1.2° camber in the back and my tires wear evenly. I also drive very aggressively.

    An alternative would be to go with a lot of caster, which radically improves cornering performance without adding camber when the steering wheel points straight. The camber is only there when you are turning. You will need Z4M FCABs or E36 M3 strut mounts/caster plates or some combination of those for that though.
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

  7. #147
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    998
    This is a great thread that I was not aware of. Now I know.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  8. #148
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    SC
    Posts
    109
    Quote Originally Posted by Galapolis View Post
    Depends on how you drive. You can run massive camber and still get outer wear if you drive really aggressively. You can also run stock camber and get crazy wear. You have to match it to your driving style.

    I run 0 toe front and 0.1° in the back (0.2° total) and -2.1° camber in the front and -1.2° camber in the back and my tires wear evenly. I also drive very aggressively.

    An alternative would be to go with a lot of caster, which radically improves cornering performance without adding camber when the steering wheel points straight. The camber is only there when you are turning. You will need Z4M FCABs or E36 M3 strut mounts/caster plates or some combination of those for that though.
    Thanks for the info. I think in general this car will not be driven that aggressively... I have my 335i for that. This will be more of a cruiser but I'd like it to still feel decent on twisty roads, which we have a lot of where I live. Would it make sense for me to have similar toe settings but less negative camber compared to you?

  9. #149
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    516
    Quote Originally Posted by drummr8 View Post
    Thanks for the info. I think in general this car will not be driven that aggressively... I have my 335i for that. This will be more of a cruiser but I'd like it to still feel decent on twisty roads, which we have a lot of where I live. Would it make sense for me to have similar toe settings but less negative camber compared to you?
    I derived my toe settings from what is supposedly optimal for the chassis: http://www.bimmerhaus.com/tech/align.html

    I would recommend you give it a read to get a better overview. Personally I would focus on caster, which is the only way to improve performance noticeably with 0 impact on tire wear.
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

  10. #150
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,046
    Quote Originally Posted by drummr8 View Post
    Thanks for the info. I think in general this car will not be driven that aggressively... I have my 335i for that. This will be more of a cruiser but I'd like it to still feel decent on twisty roads, which we have a lot of where I live. Would it make sense for me to have similar toe settings but less negative camber compared to you?
    Short answer: yes

    Toe is what will wear your tires, but makes these cars feel stable at speed

    I'd go like -1.0 to -1.5 all around on camber and minimize toe, just a little bit in for stability (the car gets squirrelly if the toe pushes out)

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