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Thread: William's 330Ci ZHP Maintenance and Project Thread

  1. #711
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    1,161
    I have the ECS Tuning aluminum pulley in my car as well. Its pretty sweet!

    I think you should get rid of the air intake shroud thing - it does not seem to have much effect on the Gruppe-M intake. Atleast on my Afe intake, the shroud actually routes into the intake housing so some air is actually getting scooped up and into the intake.

    For the shark fin, why dont you use some velcro tapes? Or wait, is it magnetic? If so, just get some really thin felt/velvet tape from Michael's and use that in between the shark fin and the roof metal.
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  2. #712
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,194
    Quote Originally Posted by ELCID86 View Post
    Jimmy Buffet.


    Quote Originally Posted by anandoc View Post
    I have the ECS Tuning aluminum pulley in my car as well. Its pretty sweet!

    I think you should get rid of the air intake shroud thing - it does not seem to have much effect on the Gruppe-M intake. Atleast on my Afe intake, the shroud actually routes into the intake housing so some air is actually getting scooped up and into the intake.

    For the shark fin, why dont you use some velcro tapes? Or wait, is it magnetic? If so, just get some really thin felt/velvet tape from Michael's and use that in between the shark fin and the roof metal.
    I'd rather not tape anything to my car, I think I'm going to try out the magnets first.

  3. #713
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    15,611
    Just make sure the magnet is strong as hell. If it's loose enough to move with a finger, you'll get dirt underneath there and when the fin shifts, it'll grind that dirt against the paint. At least if it's a super strong magnet (that requires some force to remove) you won't have to worry about it.
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun



    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  4. #714
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,194
    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    Just make sure the magnet is strong as hell. If it's loose enough to move with a finger, you'll get dirt underneath there and when the fin shifts, it'll grind that dirt against the paint. At least if it's a super strong magnet (that requires some force to remove) you won't have to worry about it.
    That's what I was thinking. I'm going with some rare earth magnets, hopefully they'll do the trick.

  5. #715
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,194
    Mileage: 58,508 miles

    Car is still slowly leaking oil that I attribute to the failing VCG. I really should get around to it and the VANOS, I've just been lazy as hell.

    I also finally got around to installing PA Soft on my father's decade old IBM X60 since the laptop that used to have PA Soft was my 13 year old IBM X40 from high school kicked the bucket. I coded out my cold check for the front turn signal bulbs since they the LEDs I bought from Nate (Link) and they would sometimes flicker on start up. No longer (I think)!

    Some quick questions for you folks. I cleared codes but these seemed to be persistent. Anyone know what they may be?

    SRS


    IKE


    ABS


    EDIT: some shitty phone pics from a nice fall drive yesterday:







    Last edited by BMWCurves; 10-29-2017 at 07:58 AM.

  6. #716
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    9,194
    Mileage: 58,552 miles

    This weekend I tackled my leaking valve cover gasket (VCG) and while I was in there I replaced my VANOS seals and VANOS oil line. The repair itself wasn't particularly difficult, but it was time consuming as I took my time and ran into a few hiccups. I used the following guides and videos to assist in the VCG and VANOS:

    Valve cover gasket:

    VANOS seals:

    VANOS oil line:

    Parts purchased (part number, brand):
    • VANOS seals repair kit (#BS001, Beisan Systems)
    • VANOS gasket (11361433817, BMW)
    • Valve cover gasket kit from FCP Euro (11120030496KT, elring [OEM]) - includes the valve cover gasket (11120030496), valve cover gasket gromet (11121437395, x15), valve cover washer (11127838077, 15x), and valve cover oil fill gasket ring
    • VANOS unit fit bolt (11361748745, BMW) - unused
    • VANOS oil line (11361705532, Rein [OEM]) - includes four crush washers.
    • RTV silicone gasket maker (82194, Permatex)

    Comments/pictures :
    Getting the car backed up and ready for repairs. The garage does not have great lighting inside so I make do with sunlight for most things.



    I managed to snap two of the tabs on the plastic engine caps (11121726089), so I'll need to replace those.

    The first issue I encountered was that the VCG would not budge from the engine head. It would not budge. I then quickly discovered that the putty knife was nowhere to be found, so I had to make a quick run to the hardware store to get one so I could separate the gasket from the head. It was a tough battle, and I realized why: once I got the gasket off, the gasket's rubber had fused with the metal. The VCG's rubber was incredibly brittle and left hardened chunks all over the place (see next picture). I fished around and found some pieces of the VCG that had snapped off and fallen into the area below the spark plug holes the cams.



    I ended up using a shop vac jerry rigged with some narrow caliber tubing to see if I could suck up any plastic lost to where my fingers couldn't go. I didn't pick up any bits with the vacuum, but I think the engine will be fine. My only fear is that some chunk will clog up an oil return hole somewhere, so fingers crossed that doesn't happen.

    To clean up the head I gently used a combination of my putty knife, trim removal tools, my fingernails, microfiber towels, and brake cleaner to get most of the old VCG off of the head. It was tedious work to say the least and took up a significant amount of time.

    Once I had that cleaned up I removed the VANOS unit which wasn't too bad. I had purchased a spare "VANOS unit fit bolt," (the one that is counter threaded) because the Beisan guide said it was easy to strip, but I had no problems there. I placed down a lot of plastic bags and towels over my belts and basically anything below the VANOS unit, so no oil spilled on that area.

    Once the VANOS was out I set about replacing the seals.



    Once I the VANOS unit disassembled, it was apparent that my seals were in need of replacement. There was significant play between both the piston and the VANOS unit intake/exhaust cylinders and the piston and the VANOS cover cylinders. I removed the old seals, taking care not to nick the piston with the knife which was not an easy task, especially for the second underlying o-ring. It was cold out so I had to heat up the outer teflon rings in some warm water before installing them. I found the smaller teflon rings more difficult to install without messing up the shape compared to the larger rings, but they were compressed to their proper shape via Beisan's fitting procedure.

    One annoying aspect was that Beisan listed several additional parts you might consider replacing when performing the VANOS seals replacement, but did not list the VANOS cover gaskets, the ones that go between the VANOS unit and the intake/exhaust VANOS covers. I'm not sure they have individual part numbers or not, but other replacement kits (e.g. this kit from Amazon) do include those gaskets. I had to make do with reusing my old ones.

    Reassembly and reinstallation of the VANOS was easy enough. I cleaned up the unit and the mating surfaces as best I could with brake cleaner and some towels. Next I replaced the VANOS oil line that looked to be in perfectly good shape but I was advised to do it while I was in there. It was simple enough to do, just there was no room to torque it down to spec so I just went by what felt right, plus there were crush washers on both sides of the banjo bolt so I felt safe giving it some love.



    I removed the old VCG (so brittle!) from the valve cover, cleaned up the valve cover a bit, and installed the new VCG (so bendy!). I placed a small layer of RTV sealant (linked above) where the VANOS met the head and on all the corners of the half moon areas of the head, front and rear, and let it cure for a few minutes. Next I reinstalled the valve cover, taking time to torque down the bolts in a cross-star sort of pattern, using new rubber grommets and washers in the process.

    The rest was just reassembly.

    IMPRESSION:
    The break in period is approximately 200 miles, but even with my short drive this evening the engine was much smoother when it first started up/was cold (my car would sometimes bog down or judder when it's really cold and at low RPM), and had noticeably increased low-end torque. It's not like I have suddenly 30 ft-lbs more torque, but enough to be noticeable. I had to drive my father's ZHP down to the hardware store for the putty knife, and I noticed that his car had more low-end torque than mine. Now my car feels like it has the same, if not more low-end torque than his car.

    EDIT: After ~40 miles since the replacement I have noticed that I have to use less throttle input to get the car going, which I attribute to more low-end torque. The car was also approximately have a quart low on oil, which I topped off.

    So overall, I needed to replace the VCG because it was leaking, but I am very pleased with the VANOS seals replacement so far.
    Last edited by BMWCurves; 11-06-2017 at 03:47 PM.

  7. #717
    Seemed like a lot of work. Must be glad to be done with it. My car with 167k miles is so down on low end torque that is almost embarrassing when I see other cars pull away from me at a stop light. I should get this done on my car ASAP but Iíve been saying that for about a year now. I shouldíve replaced the vanos line too when I replaced the ofhg but I didnít


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  8. #718
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Lake Norman, NC
    Posts
    167
    Great write up William, Thanks for including all the links and part numbers.

    YELKOS - Lake Norman, NC
    2006 330Ci ZHP, ZPP Vert. 6MT Mystic Blue / Grey Montana leather
    purchased 8/23/17 w/ 92,000


    Current Stable

    2014 Audi A6 Premium Plus (wife's ride)
    2005 Ford F-150 Lariat 4X4 (Daily Driver)
    2006 Acura MDX Touring (Daughter's college car)
    Deceased (Sold)
    2006 Audi A6
    1999 328I 5MT
    1998 528I AT

  9. #719
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Picton, ON
    Posts
    6,025
    nice work, william! it feels good to knock out repairs like that - and as you can see, even though your car has crazy low miles, age still takes its' toll on rubber bits.

    what kind of light do you have in the garage? are there any standard bulb sockets? i saw this sweet 3x LED light thing for a standard bulb socket in the latest BAVauto catalog... might be a good idea for an older garage (i would have bought them if i didn't already install 5 x twin-T8 flourescent fixtures ).
    peter

    2009 BMW 335i M Sport 6MT

    2015 VW Golf TSI Comfortline 5MT

    2007 BMW X3 3.0si M Sport 6MT

  10. #720
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Chicago area
    Posts
    1,716
    Nicely done!

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