Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hornung418 View Post
    BP, it's more like when you hold in gear while taking a corner. Do the same pattern every time round the track you will surely spin the nut off over a span of track days.
    That is a big problem then... at my local track, there are numerous occasions where I reach over 6000 RPM (I have 1,000 extra rpm to play with) and wouldn't make any sense for me to upshift, though thankfully those instances are not in the middle of a corner. Auto-x is not that big of a deal, because by the time I reach 6000RPM, I'd be doing nearly 60mph, which is far too fast for the course I usually run on. But the track... not a good place to lose that nut.

    But if you're going to track your car, it's always best to drop the Oil Pan and tighten that SOB down before each race.
    Seriously?? That's a lot of work just to tighten a nut...
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    That is a big problem then... at my local track, there are numerous occasions where I reach over 6000 RPM (I have 1,000 extra rpm to play with) and wouldn't make any sense for me to upshift, though thankfully those instances are not in the middle of a corner. Auto-x is not that big of a deal, because by the time I reach 6000RPM, I'd be doing nearly 60mph, which is far too fast for the course I usually run on. But the track... not a good place to lose that nut.


    Seriously?? That's a lot of work just to tighten a nut...
    That was a sarcastic reply.
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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hornung418 View Post
    That was a sarcastic reply.
    Hehe....awesome.
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hornung418 View Post
    That was a sarcastic reply.
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  5. #25
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    Jan 1970
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    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  6. #26
    So then if this is an issue with the M54B30 in the regular 330 what kinda nut does the M54B25 have? I gogled the issue with the 330 engine and found info, I googled it with the 325 engine and found nada.

    "I don't care if the door gaps are straight. When the driver steps on the gas I want him to sheet his pant's." Enzo Ferrari

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whitexi View Post
    So then if this is an issue with the M54B30 in the regular 330 what kinda nut does the M54B25 have? I gogled the issue with the 330 engine and found info, I googled it with the 325 engine and found nada.
    Check out what pump nut is listed over at realoem... Then plug the p/n into ecs. You might get lucky with a pic.

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    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    New Orleans
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    264
    From what I understand, the issue is more prevalent with the M54B30 (330i engine) because it has a longer stroke than the M54B25 (325i) with the same bore. As a result, the B30 has an undesired vibration at high RPMs. I'm no engineer, but it makes sense that the longer stroke=higher piston speed at RPM=more force placed on the crankshaft (assuming the pistons/conrods weigh the same) which somehow equals bad vibrations.

  9. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by edlvrt View Post
    From what I understand, the issue is more prevalent with the M54B30 (330i engine) because it has a longer stroke than the M54B25 (325i) with the same bore. As a result, the B30 has an undesired vibration at high RPMs. I'm no engineer, but it makes sense that the longer stroke=higher piston speed at RPM=more force placed on the crankshaft (assuming the pistons/conrods weigh the same) which somehow equals bad vibrations.
    Makes sense.

    I looked it up and the M54B25 and M54B30 both have the same hex nut. I just never heard of this before, but it does seem to be a 330 issue. I searched for it under the 325 and nothing really about this that I could find, look for it under a 330 and theres a load of threads started with people with 330's that have had this issue. Seemed to be mostly tracked cars.

    "I don't care if the door gaps are straight. When the driver steps on the gas I want him to sheet his pant's." Enzo Ferrari

  10. #30
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    Oct 2011
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    Which is what I was doing Sunday, tracking the car. But when you can see the tach, you can see me upshifting right around 6,000 RPM each time, just trying to protect my baby! If I shift at redline I might get around the track a little faster, but since live timing is not allowed in the CCA schools and I'm not competing for anything in the NASA or SpeedVentures events, saving a few seconds around the track doesn't get me anything but anxiety about the OPN and bragging rights.
    Edit: Oooohhh, notice in the video preview pic the temp needle is right in the middle at 12 o'clock, right where it should be. I checked that temp gauge a few times on the front and back straights.


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