All windows up/down button... can be modded?

[alexandre]

It's a big harness. Probably has pins for all the functions, and different switches use different ones?

[JupiterBMW]

Yeah. The lock switch that comes in the sedans uses 7 pins, and the switch from the verts has 8 pins. So, have to figure out what that extra wire does and go from there.


Sent from my hybrid iPhone 4/4S...

[JupiterBMW]

Bringing this thread back to the top...

With my spare time at night on the ship, I've been doing some tinkering, and I've basically traced the circuitry on both the vert switch assembly and the sedan switch assembly, and compared them both...

So, long story short, not going to be an easy mod. The "all windows" switch that comes in the verts basically works just the same as all of the other buttons. It uses pins 7 and 8 on the connector. Pin 2 is the common pin to every button in both switch sets. That means pin 2 must be the common 12V. Well, pin 7 and 8 activate up and down on the "all windows". Ironically, on the sedan switch, the lock button uses pin 2 and 8. There is no pin 7, as mentioned above. So, some actual electrical work has to be done, as well as some coding. But, I'm thinking that if the correct electrical is done, coding might not be necessary. Perhaps just a little trickery in terms of the signaling.

Upon further digging, the sedan wiring harness only has 7 wires coming into the switch, so its not typical like other things in the car and "pre-wired".

Needless to say, I am working on this. Stay tuned, or subscribe for more info as it happens... That'll be a while, but still. If anyone has a junk E46 laying around, I'd love it if you'd be willing to clip the wiring harness that plugs into this switch. I need the connector with 4-6" of wiring on it so I can make a jumper harness...

[Hornung418]

Tyco is the manufacturer of the MQS socket connectors. You might try sourcing a reel of them for around $10. You will also need the special crimping tool to securely attach them to the harness. adding one wire shouldn't be too big of a deal. I'm retrofitting the electronic pedal into my car and will need to buy around 100 just so I have spares when I eventually screw one up. I think the tool can be bought for around $20.

[JupiterBMW]

Tyco is the manufacturer of the MQS socket connectors. You might try sourcing a reel of them for around $10. You will also need the special crimping tool to securely attach them to the harness. adding one wire shouldn't be too big of a deal. I'm retrofitting the electronic pedal into my car and will need to buy around 100 just so I have spares when I eventually screw one up. I think the tool can be bought for around $20.

This reply is pure cash money... Thanks dood...

[az3579]

Tyco is the manufacturer of the MQS socket connectors. You might try sourcing a reel of them for around $10. You will also need the special crimping tool to securely attach them to the harness. adding one wire shouldn't be too big of a deal. I'm retrofitting the electronic pedal into my car and will need to buy around 100 just so I have spares when I eventually screw one up. I think the tool can be bought for around $20.

You want drive-by-wire???? Are you ready for throttle lag?

If I convert mine to be driven by a throttle cable instead, I would.


Sent from my iPhone 4S from Tapatalk

[wsmeyer]

Bringing this thread back to the top...

With my spare time at night on the ship, I've been doing some tinkering, and I've basically traced the circuitry on both the vert switch assembly and the sedan switch assembly, and compared them both...

So, long story short, not going to be an easy mod. The "all windows" switch that comes in the verts basically works just the same as all of the other buttons. It uses pins 7 and 8 on the connector. Pin 2 is the common pin to every button in both switch sets. That means pin 2 must be the common 12V. Well, pin 7 and 8 activate up and down on the "all windows". Ironically, on the sedan switch, the lock button uses pin 2 and 8. There is no pin 7, as mentioned above. So, some actual electrical work has to be done, as well as some coding. But, I'm thinking that if the correct electrical is done, coding might not be necessary. Perhaps just a little trickery in terms of the signaling.

Upon further digging, the sedan wiring harness only has 7 wires coming into the switch, so its not typical like other things in the car and "pre-wired".

Needless to say, I am working on this. Stay tuned, or subscribe for more info as it happens... That'll be a while, but still. If anyone has a junk E46 laying around, I'd love it if you'd be willing to clip the wiring harness that plugs into this switch. I need the connector with 4-6" of wiring on it so I can make a jumper harness...

With that info I think I've got it figured out.

I can't seem to link directly to it but open up TWO browser tabs and on one navigate to:

http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r.../e46/index.htm

then drill down:

>> Complete Vehicle
>> body
>> Locking and security functions
>> Power Windows, front
>> Power window switch, driver's side (Saloon or Touring)

On the second tab:

http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r.../e46/index.htm

then drill down:

>> Complete Vehicle
>> body
>> Locking and security functions
>> Power Windows, front
>> Power window switch, driver's side (convertible)


For both, the lowest grey block is the switch assembly itself and the grey block above is the GM5 module.

On the (Saloon or Touring), on the left side of the switch block you can see pin 8 is the Single Throw, Single Pole switch used to lock the windows, and it goes to pin 21 on the GM5 module.

On the (Convertible), the three switches are all Double Pole, Double Throw so look at the switch block in terms of the 'left pair', 'middle pair', 'right pair'. The middle and right pairs are the same as (Saloon Touring) so those are obviously front / back switches. The left pair is the all window switch and it uses pins 7,8 on the switch block and pins 16,4 on the GM5.

Thus, the mod will require the following:

1) The switch assembly from a convertible
2) Disassemble it and cut the plastic rib out that physically blocks the auto up feature
3) Move the wire going to pin 21 on the GM5 module to pin 4 on the GM5 module
4) Run a new wire from pin 7 on the switch block to pin 16 on the GM5 module
5) Activate the 'All Window Up' feature in the GM5 via NCS Expert
6) Activate the 'All Window Auto Up' feature via NCS Expert

Jon's already got the switch assembly. We need to figure out what size pins are used on both sides of the new wire and then you can buy oem ones cheap:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...17&hg=61&fg=15

Then we need someone in Florida to do the coding

[Redrider2002]

Jon, you are the quintessential "mod" animal. Once again, I'll be waiting to see how this one turns out.

[JupiterBMW]

Jon, you are the quintessential "mod" animal. Once again, I'll be waiting to see how this one turns out.

Thanks bud. I always like to do really cool mods that aren't just a "I bought ____ part and slapped it on..." That is great, but the ingenuity mods are awesome.

[JupiterBMW]

Well guys, I wanted to bring this back to the top and let you all know that I am working on it. I installed my aux input kit today, and while I was in there, I decided to poke around with the wiring at the GM5 module. I took a bunch of pics of connectors, but need to sit down and compare wire diagrams with actual connectors and see what can be done.

Will post the pics and more when I get the home Internet sorted. Tapatalk is my only line at the moment...

Anyway, I'm heading out of town tomorrow for 6 days, but as soon as I'm back, more work done on this.