I don't have clay, and I don't have any experience with it, so that didn't come to mind. Ill just figure out if I can get someone else to buff it out for me because I don't have the money to invest in all the equipment to DIY right now.
I don't have clay, and I don't have any experience with it, so that didn't come to mind. Ill just figure out if I can get someone else to buff it out for me because I don't have the money to invest in all the equipment to DIY right now.
In the market for an E90 M3
If you don't have a friend that's willing to buff your car for free, you'll spend the same amount as a buffer, if not more, having someone else do paint correction. If money is the issue, I'd just wait. Wash the car and use a spray on wax (I like Eagle One's, ~$7 at Advance/O'reilly, And not the "wax as you dry" that one sucks.), a couple coats. The paint and finish will look the same, but it will be protected until you can afford some detailing products/equipment.
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^ Sound advice right there.
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Thanks for the advice. I have a friend who should be willing to buff my car out for a good price. He's my cousins friend that paints cars for a living. If not, I'll make sure to do that Ryan!
In the market for an E90 M3
I'll vouch for the Goo Gone as well.....I've used it on pine sap before. We HAD some tree limbs from the neighbors yard hanging over our driveway.
Always wash right after you use it or hit it with a ton of water at the least.
You'll then need to use a wax of some sort to protect the clear. I would only use goo gone as a very last resort. Soap, water, elbow grease, and clay bar first.
Clay barring is easy, btw. I use a Mother's kit from Advance Auto ~$20. Knead the clay block until more malleable, and create a nice large flat area on the clay. Spray included detailer, (in kit), or some type of lubricant on clay and on work area. Rub clay over area, work in 1-2sqft sections, up/down side/side. Keep area well lubricated. Knead/flood clay (to find a clean area on the clay) before moving onto next section. You'll know you're done with an area when the clay glides effortlessly over the area, and the paint will feel another than glass.
And remember, claying removes everything from the clear. Your clear coat is now unprotected.
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Great tips ry!
I actually got a tip involving clay barring from another enthusiast a couple years ago that recommended you breaking up the bar into smaller pieces then spreading them out along the car for the 2-3 ft sections. When you get done with a section just flip the smaller flat piece over and do one more then toss that piece away. That way as you work your way around the car you aren't increasing the likelihood of causing more damage to the paint as you try to clean it off.
Could be wrong but makes sense in my head at least
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