Hope that fixes it.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Hope that fixes it.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
"ZHP or not, I still like you"
ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture
Ah, you see, I would...but as soon as I know my car's going into the shop, I think to myself "what other easy stuff can I slide in there?" Since my mechanic is pretty darn nice, I do not foresee him charging for the door at all. Out of curiosity, where else are torque sockets necessary on an E46?
I did, see below:
Codes pulled via PA Soft on 01/07/18:
On the last one, notably all the car is stating is that the passenger mirror is not responding. I have noticed as well that while my seat position memory works for the seat position itself, the memory does not work for the mirror position i.e. if I push out the functioning driver's side mirror and press the memory button, the mirror does not return to the appropriate memory position. Furthermore, my passenger mirror has been working intermittently, and when it does, then the seat memory does affect the mirror position. Not sure what to make of that.
Any info on some of the other codes would be helpful as well
E-Torx is found on steering guibo, diff-to-driveshaft, diff-to-axles, front subframe (I think), etc.
Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual
Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots
Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors
Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual
Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots
Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors
Mileage: 59,853
Weeeehehehehell...
Took the car the shop. First, so glad I let my mechanic do it because it ended up taking them more than an hour to re-tap the cross-threaded hub. Real pain the poo chute apparently despite being only the first 1mm of threading that was the issue. But it's on there, torques down the spec, and fits with the bevel of my wheel. Second, they got the door bolt down tight fo free. Third, my mechanic was not sure off the top of his head what would be the source of my passenger mirror issue. He didn't have a lot of time so I didn't press him but he said he would look into it when he has some time. So, for now I'll have to live with out reverse-tilt function like a plebe:
Fourth, I love shooting the breeze with my mechanic. He told me about a few of the cars that were in: one had a snapped rear suspension spring that the owner's wife had driven on for 3 years. Another was a E36 325is that had been through the business starting with an engine swap because the current engine "lost power once it warmed up" which was attributed to loss of compression from bent valves. A third was in for a suspension refresh (less exciting).
Last edited by BMWCurves; 01-11-2018 at 06:05 PM.
I have the Mirror tilt down turned off. Never found it useful and one less thing to break lol
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His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |
Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |
Mileage: 59,869
Today I installed the Turner Motorsport Power Pulley Kit that I ordered when it was on sale back in December. Installation was relatively straight forward; I used both the instructions that were included with the kit itself, which weren't that helpful because Turner was trying to cover as many different BMW models in a single set of instructions so the specifics were scarce, and this DIY guide online:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=141297
Some installation notes:
- I ordered mine with the Bosch alternator pulley because, well, I have a Bosch alternator. Who woulda thunk?
- I tackled the alternator first because I figured if I couldn't get that off or ran into an issue, then it wasn't worth trying to go back to stock for the other parts.
- Getting the alternator off wasn't too tough. It definitely helped to bang on the bottom bolt to push the sleeve back, or else you'll be stuck yanking the alternator back and forth and possibly damaging the mounting points (more easily visualized here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrEehjM5tgQ&t=6m19s).
- I took the alternator pulley off with a few shots of my impact wrench. I added some loctite, but I have no idea how to torque the nut down to 44 ft-lbs because the whole thing spins freely. I tried sticking a screw driver through to lock up the vanes a la ZHPizza's redneck style, but it just bent the vane as I tried torquing the nut down. So I settled for thread locker and a few shots of my impact wrench.
- I had a similar problem tightening the power steering pulley to spec (16 ft-lbs). Even with the belt in place, it would spin. I think I got it to "tight enough" but it is a little disconcerting that I couldn't get the bolts tighter.
- The factory alternator pulley is heavy, much heavier than the larger Turner alternator pulley.
- UPDATE: After initial difficulty getting the power steering and alternator pulleys torqued down to spec, I was able to torque down everything using Hornung418, Sockethead, and ZHPizza's suggestions for good techniques (Link, essentially the posts of the next page). It boiled down to using a screw driver against the bolts to hold the power steering pulley in place as I torqued each bolt, and pinching the alternator pulley in place with my old belt and vice grips.
Impressions:
I'll save this section when I have more seat time, but I took it out for a spin and couldn't say I noticed too much of a difference. Paradoxically, the steering feels more boosted than before the installation, when it should be the other way around. Not sure if it's just in my head (most likely) or there's something to it that I'm missing.
Some installation pictures:
Alternator off and factory pulley removed:
Comparison of the Turner alternator pulley (left) and factory alternator pulley
Comparison of the Turner water pump pulley (left) and ECS Tuning aluminum water pump pulley (right). The ECS/factory pulley could fit inside the back of the Turner pulley.
Mostly buttoned up. Installed Turner water pump pulley (red), power steering pulley (green), and alternator pulley (yellow)
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Last edited by BMWCurves; 01-14-2018 at 11:54 AM.