That comes with the stock flywheel though doesn't it? Like how would I know if I could continue to use my other flywheel, or is it basically all toast at this point?
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Printable View
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...FcW4wAodGFoASw
Had to find a dual mass flywheel. As I have not had to do a clutch on the car yet, there might be a chance that the flywheel could be resurfaced by milling it. You will need to discuss this with the shop you took it to. Otherwise, I would strongly recommend getting a new one. It makes for a very smooth clutch engagement.
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Can you post what is on your car, I can look at the install on it.
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I wish I could remembered right now, I'll have to call the shop and ask them to check the receipts for me. All I know is that some part of it is Kevlar and it was like JG or something similar:/ and yea that $3k price on the bill still sticks in my head too. I'll do some looking around myself
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When you turn off the car with clutch depressed and you can hear rattle/chatter, your flywheel is done.
Don't try to resurface flywheel, it just won't work long term and this is not something you want to do again.
Do you track the car? If you don't, it might make sense to just go with a stock setup from a cost standpoint. There is a strong possibility that there is a custom lightweight flywheel that is installed and that will add additional cost for replacement if the clutch is failing. The lightweight flywheel allows the motor to spin up faster as there is less rotational mass. You may notice a difference in the performance, but if you are not tracking the car, your wallet may approve of the stock setup
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Oh no I was talking about chatter without the clutch depressed, when I press it the chatter goes away(which I think is normal right?)
But what made me take it in was the grinding when I took my foot off the clutch in first and second, kind of a whaling metal on metal noise
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The clutch disc, if failing, will make noise when it is being engaged. A clutch assembly consists of a clutch disc and a pressure plate that has springs on it. When you engage the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder is engaged which then moves what is more or less a yoke assembly with a throw-out bearing that presses against the Spring Assembly to disengage the clutch. When you let the clutch out, the opposite happens, the springs on the pressure plate will now release and engage the clutch disc, which pretty much is like a set of brakes, there are two friction surfaces, one on the pressure plate side and one on the flywheel side. This is why it is imperative to have a smooth flywheel surface when you do the clutch assembly. It is really not much different than the surface your brakes see and a set of rotors.
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I have heard a rattling noise on my sons car if you turn the car off with the clutch let out and car in neutral. I am guessing this is the yoke having some slop in it. Because it does this, I have a tendency to turn it off with the clutch engaged so I don't have to hear that noise. I am sure others have heard this as well.
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=21_0093
These are the parts within the clutch assembly. Part number 5 is the yoke assembly that I was referring to, they call it Clutch Release Fork Lever. I am guessing that my sons car has a worn out part 6 and perhaps 5, thus is rattles a bit. Until it is taken apart, this is speculation. There is supposed to be a rubber tip on the slave cylinder as well, this could cause some noise so it might be something that gets inspected as well.
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I see you are in Chicago, what dealer did you take it to?
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Local BMW dealership, Knauz Auto, I've had them do some stuff to my car before and I can trust them. Thanks so much though for the information on the clutch, did you go to school for automotive? Because you're very well versed in it haha, I just love soaking up the information
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I worked at a Machine Shop and Auto Repair place in Houston when I was in High School and College. I have done a ton of brakes, old GM 350 diesel replacements in the 80's. I also change more than my fair share of transmissions in my day. I have done numerous clutch replacements. Now all it get to do is work on one of the 5 BMW's we own. 2 E30's, 2 ZHP's and one 2014 328d.
At the time I am a Regional Sales and Business Development Manager for a Instrumentation Company. So I guess you can say that I am still in a very technical field of business. I'm the guy that keeps all of the refineries, ethanol plants, and power plants running. [emoji57]
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I guess I could have looked at his signature 🤦🏼*♂️
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Here's the kit, think someone else also posted the link in the thread. Now I gotta find this Kevlar disc
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...FdgcgQodAhoIuQ
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Well that is a damn good question, I guess it is because I have always liked the way they drive from that first drive in a 1986 325i 5 speed.
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The kit that was posted includes the clutch disc. The big question now is how do you get it from Ohio to Chicago in time for the weekend if the clutch is dead? I would see what the diagnostic is on what the noise is, then just drive it this weekend. Take it easy though as if it is indeed the clutch, as it is very close to compete failure, which means AAA.
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Let me know the outcome, that lightweight setup is pretty cool, might be worth looking at if the sons car needs a new one. Cheap performance gain
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I don't think clutches fail this dramatically so quickly... wouldn't have it been slipping for a while before it would wear out like this?
Well I looked a little closer at the ECS Tuning link and that setup is for a 5 speed E46. The flywheel has a different input bearing on it and will not accept the 6 speed input shaft. Take a look at this link. http://www.jbracing.com/flywheel-bmw6.php
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My friend the independent mechanic said I need one Toyota. He said that way, no matter how many miles are on it and or how crappy it looks, I will at least have one car that will get me somewhere. At one point about a month ago I was down to 1 and 7/8th cars . . . My 328d was good, but all of the others had something going on with them. The 7/8th's car was the wife's ZHP which had about $1000 worth of parts that needed to be installed, but I was dealing with cooling systems and SES lights on the sons car, the 89 325 hiccuped and had a thermostatic fan clutch fail and it rubbed a hole in a crossover hose.
Her car then got the VANOS replaced with a Dr Vanos unit, DISA redone with German Auto Solutions kit, Cold Weather CCV and let's just go ahead and throw a front set of brakes and rotors. Also all new upper and lower intake and all gaskets and O-rings for your typical wear items. I need a dedicated bay after the rash of repairs I went through. Oh, and she also needed her transmission serviced, that was done a week after all the other things were done!
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Alright so I just got off the phone with the dealership, quoted me at $1738 including labor without tax for the pressure plate replacement. They said they'd have to actually look at the flywheel to see if it needs replacing, but they're only allowed to put OEM parts in(oh well) so if anything else is wrong it's gonna have to go back to stock. Some other news... my vanoss tube(?) has a small leak or something, nothing major to worry about apparently but something to monitor. That and my rear control arm bushing is starting to wear down so that needs to be monitored as well. That and my rear brakes are beginning to grind.
It's a laundry list but also a sigh of relief for now knowing that my whole clutch doesn't need to be replaced
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If they are already taking everything apart, I wouldn't take a chance and not replace everything including the flywheel.
It's a big job and not something you want to do again.
If you can hear rattle/chatter from the flywheel like you described, I would definitely replace it.
It might go like that for a while but even if the clutch kit is new you will still be stuck with that sound.
That is quite interesting as there assessed diagnostic as the pressure plate is essentially a surface that is smooth just like the flywheel surface. The clutch disc is what wears out as it is like a brake pad and provides the friction material between the two. I am hoping that they said one thing but meant another. If they are taking this car apart, I would hope they would be doing a complete clutch assembly, especially for that price. http://techtonicstuning.com/main/ima...es/141_204.JPG
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I concur with these comments. As you are wanting to drive this car this weekend, I would go back with the stock setup and do everything. You will not regret it as the clutch will engage nice and smooth. We used to machine the manual transmission flywheels at the place I worked at to achieve a smooth surface prior to reassembling the clutch assembly.
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Yikes I didn't think about that, I'll have to check in with them after school, they said they'll be getting the part in by today hopefully and have it done for tomorrow so I'm excited either way. Crossing my fingers that they don't find anything else after disassembly. Like I said before I really can't go back to a stock flywheel [emoji30]
Is the price actually high though for what they're suggesting?
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There is nothing wrong with the stock clutch parts. My car is putting out close to 300hp on the stock clutch with 142k miles on it. It still works great!
Ok, I'm confused. I thought you said the metallic noise was being heard when you were releasing the clutch in first gear when taking off and also when engaging second. Is that not the case? Are you saying it is at idle in neutral with clutch out and not engaged?
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Just to clear up potential confusion about "engaging" and "disengaging" the clutch:
"Engaging" the clutch means the pedal is coming out.
"Disengaging" the clutch means the pedal is being pushed in.
If the chatter from the lightweight flywheel only occurs in Neutral with the clutch engaged (clutch pedal is not being pressed), then that chatter is normal for a lightweight flywheel, especially if it was just replaced in the past few years (not a ton of miles on it). If the chattering occurs any other time than when the clutch is engaged while in Neutral (such as when in gear with the clutch engaged, or if in Neutral but the clutch is disengaged [pedal is pushed in]), then that is not normal.
The jist of it is that for a lightweight flywheel, the only time you should be hearing chatter is if in neutral with your foot off the clutch pedal.
I need a new clutch... whole thing needs to be replaced. Fml just got the call from the dealership, total would come to $2400 including the flywheel.
I honestly don't want a 25lbs flywheel, so they said I can order one and bring it in to have them install the whole clutch set.
God damnit
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At least they are letting you bring your own parts. Most dealerships, especially BMW dealerships, won't let you do that...