2004 BMW 330i TiAg ZHP/// 6MT(purchased from forum 6/06/16);
KONI Yellows | Akebono Brake Pads | ECIS cold air intake system;
Hotchkis Sport sway bar | ECS Tuning Carbon Fiber front strut brace
Vibrant Performance Muffler | Coby Wheel Tri-Stitch steering wheel & shift boot
Michelin PSS | Blizzak WS-80
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...FcW4wAodGFoASw
Had to find a dual mass flywheel. As I have not had to do a clutch on the car yet, there might be a chance that the flywheel could be resurfaced by milling it. You will need to discuss this with the shop you took it to. Otherwise, I would strongly recommend getting a new one. It makes for a very smooth clutch engagement.
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Can you post what is on your car, I can look at the install on it.
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I wish I could remembered right now, I'll have to call the shop and ask them to check the receipts for me. All I know is that some part of it is Kevlar and it was like JG or something similar:/ and yea that $3k price on the bill still sticks in my head too. I'll do some looking around myself
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2004 BMW 330i TiAg ZHP/// 6MT(purchased from forum 6/06/16);
KONI Yellows | Akebono Brake Pads | ECIS cold air intake system;
Hotchkis Sport sway bar | ECS Tuning Carbon Fiber front strut brace
Vibrant Performance Muffler | Coby Wheel Tri-Stitch steering wheel & shift boot
Michelin PSS | Blizzak WS-80
When you turn off the car with clutch depressed and you can hear rattle/chatter, your flywheel is done.
Don't try to resurface flywheel, it just won't work long term and this is not something you want to do again.
Do you track the car? If you don't, it might make sense to just go with a stock setup from a cost standpoint. There is a strong possibility that there is a custom lightweight flywheel that is installed and that will add additional cost for replacement if the clutch is failing. The lightweight flywheel allows the motor to spin up faster as there is less rotational mass. You may notice a difference in the performance, but if you are not tracking the car, your wallet may approve of the stock setup
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Oh no I was talking about chatter without the clutch depressed, when I press it the chatter goes away(which I think is normal right?)
But what made me take it in was the grinding when I took my foot off the clutch in first and second, kind of a whaling metal on metal noise
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2004 BMW 330i TiAg ZHP/// 6MT(purchased from forum 6/06/16);
KONI Yellows | Akebono Brake Pads | ECIS cold air intake system;
Hotchkis Sport sway bar | ECS Tuning Carbon Fiber front strut brace
Vibrant Performance Muffler | Coby Wheel Tri-Stitch steering wheel & shift boot
Michelin PSS | Blizzak WS-80
The clutch disc, if failing, will make noise when it is being engaged. A clutch assembly consists of a clutch disc and a pressure plate that has springs on it. When you engage the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder is engaged which then moves what is more or less a yoke assembly with a throw-out bearing that presses against the Spring Assembly to disengage the clutch. When you let the clutch out, the opposite happens, the springs on the pressure plate will now release and engage the clutch disc, which pretty much is like a set of brakes, there are two friction surfaces, one on the pressure plate side and one on the flywheel side. This is why it is imperative to have a smooth flywheel surface when you do the clutch assembly. It is really not much different than the surface your brakes see and a set of rotors.
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I have heard a rattling noise on my sons car if you turn the car off with the clutch let out and car in neutral. I am guessing this is the yoke having some slop in it. Because it does this, I have a tendency to turn it off with the clutch engaged so I don't have to hear that noise. I am sure others have heard this as well.
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2004 BMW 330i TiAg ZHP/// 6MT(purchased from forum 6/06/16);
KONI Yellows | Akebono Brake Pads | ECIS cold air intake system;
Hotchkis Sport sway bar | ECS Tuning Carbon Fiber front strut brace
Vibrant Performance Muffler | Coby Wheel Tri-Stitch steering wheel & shift boot
Michelin PSS | Blizzak WS-80