Wahler is the one to go with.
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And now I forgot, people's preferences on water pump manufacturer? I have Graf in mine I believe (can't really remember, honestly), and BMW in my sister's.
I want OEM too. 2 year warranty and they last much longer than that.
Of course if you go FCP euro no matter what you get it will be a lifetime warranty
Alright guys, back with another dilemma... think I broke my sunroof[emoji22] usually the cover on the inside of the car is pretty sticky and I have to force it back behind my head, so today when I went to do it I anticipated the stickiness and all of a sudden I push it back and it just glides back back back into the roof... so I'm like "oh shit" and start messing with the sunroof buttons, clicked it around(now that I think about it should've clicked it up and or not messed with it) and the roof went back about halfway then stopped. Tried clicking it forward, went an inch then stopped. Drove around with my roof open for awhile(shop is closed today) and then tried it again after trying to shift it around. This time it went forward a couple inches but then made the most awful grinding noise. Read up that it was all of the clips just snapping, so THAT'S AWESOME.
Anyone else ever experience this problem? Had to clear out the garage just to park the car so it doesn't get crap in it overnight, won't be able to drive tomorrow because it's supposed to rain.
Taking it to the dealership tomorrow, want to know what I should expect they'll charge me and how long it'll take.
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They will charge you a boat-load to fix that. There are a bunch of people that have fixed issues with them. I'm sure they will chime in soon enough... I think Dane and his son removed the whole cassette from the roof...
Mine hasn't broken.... yet So I can't help you other than to tell you don't let the dealer fix it.
Puzzled by this:
Hadn't moved the car since last week, so it didn't see any of the rain we got all week. Today (sunny and 60 degrees) took it out and on the way home i had put a manila envelope on the floor of the front passenger seat and when i got home and picked it up the envelope was wet. I put my hand down on the floor and it was very wet and the rear passenger floor is a bit wet as well. The left side is dry. I had the a/c going on the way home (about 30min ride) so the only thing i can think of is that it's draining inside? Any ideas?
Prestovie, the clips broke on my e46 some years ago. I got the parts at the dealer and asked my PDR guy to install them. I can't remember the price, but it was cheap. Another option could be a body shop. Don't go to dealer for this.
The sunroof thing just sounds like broken clips for the shade. It's an easy fix, just requires a second person to get the glass off carefully. The clips are super cheap too.
What area does the vapor barrier cover? Which side of the firewall is it located on? Thanks: just seeking learning....
Thanks!
Frequently the bottom of the vapor barriers become (or are left) unattached to the door when the window regulator is replaced. This allows the water that enters the door at the window to make its way across the door sill & onto the carpet. Get a roll of butyl caulk strip & use it to reattach the foam barrier to the metal door around the perimeter. Warming the door & caulk makes for better adhesion.
Vapor barrier is # 12:
Attachment 29627
Pic from ECSTuning:
Attachment 29628
^and use butyl tape.
Alright well good news is I managed to fix it just now! Had a friend in the car so I told him to try to push the glass back into place while I clicked the button, and after about 5 minutes of robot noises and gunshots it finally went back into place. Obviously not a permanent fix but now I don't constantly have it open, and I figured that if it's already broken I'm paying for a new one anyway, so I can break it a little more.
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Yea mine is starting to malfunction too. I haven't opened it since last summer :)
lol mines was working perfectly fine, and i still took it out. it took forever to sell though.
I think about doing that myself. I rarely use it... well, I don't use it at all now...
Is the Bilstein B8 (corrected from earlier B6) a good call for rear shock replacement? Alternatives? Any other 'while you're in there' components beyond the shock mounts (assuming no subframe work)? I think I recall someone mentioning this job as about as simple a DIY that could be undertaken, so I'm giving it some thought.
I understand this has been discussed a lot in the past: I just can't seem to master searching in this forum.
question on LED tail lights for sedans.
i really want LED tails and it looks like the most common popular ones online are the clear up top and red on bottom however it looks like the red clear red is the proper one to get??
is it safe to assume that regardless of which one you get, brake force may not work or the final stage 3 brake force may not work if enabled in the LCM?
trying to find some good comparison pictures of both styles to see which one wins me over because i really cant decide between the 2 styles.
Don't forget the third option:
OE rear RCR tail lights with LED bulbs in them. This is what I have and IMO it looks better than any aftermarket setup out there.
on the LED tails, which ones come tin inner led tails as well? and do they light up with your parking lights? do they light up when you brake? or are they only used when brake force is triggered?
i want to make sure the tail lights I get have all 4 lights ON when parking/headlights are engaged. i hate when only outter tails show at night.
ok so after looking hard it appears that the:
- Red/Clear/Red LED tails have leds in the inner lights
- The Clear on top red bottom (M3 look) for sedans only have leds in the outer tails in all of the knock off variants as well.
I planned on getting these, they say DEPO no error BUT after looking at the pictures, they look cheap. they look like LED STRIPS with just halogen bulbs instead of what i expected which was just LED ARRAYS that light up. it looks like the only light that has an actual array is the lower inner tail light lol
are the DEPO from Khoalty like this as well? i cant find any pictures of the back of their depo lights.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-DEPO-200...bac8pg&vxp=mtr
http://www.speedstersource.com/FISH/...4PCS_LED_E.jpg
Look at that hotspot in the middle of the turn signal
http://www.speedstersource.com/FISH/...RCR_4PCS_K.jpg
I can't answer your question about bilstein b8 since I have koni yellows but regarding "while you are in there" components, here's a good list from William-
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16182
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I have experience with the Depo RCR LED tails. Here's my perspective:
The brake and running lights are LED. The turn signal is NOT. That is why you see that hotspot; that's an incandescent bulb. The reverse lights also aren't LED.
I think the lighting of the trunk light is cheap looking. They didn't try to arrange the LEDs to "flow" with the shape of the light, so you get that cheap square cluster of LEDs.
Here's the deal breaker for me and is why I got rid of them. When you step on the brakes, the third brake light in the rear windshield comes on a split second before the taillights. So, the tails have a lag between pressing the brake and actual illumination.
The pre-facelift style light seems to work for the most part, but there have been numerous stories of LEDs dying prematurely on them. Also, it's pre-facelift style, not RCR, so you'd have to get over that as well.
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right but look at the first picture of the back of the housing.. it looks like there are bulbs in all of the sections. I assume there should only be bulbs in the turn signal and reverse section only and the other sections should have electronic array boards inside the housing.
did yours have bulb holders attached to each section like that?