Thanks for what is going to be a very helpful link. Love how the OP recapped the best points of the thread at the top: great!
Definitely a DD who loves to push the car hard. Thanks!
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That's two strong votes for the Koni. If installed now only on the rears they should do fine with the stock front units, I'd assume?
Thanks to you both for your help.
ON EDIT: on sale now, with additional rebate.
I don't think you can go wrong with Konis if you're car is a DD that you like to push often or even track from time to time. Either FSDs or Sports.
The thing that always appeals to me about the Koni yellows is the fact that you can adjust them for what you want
I would suggest getting all 4 at once but to answer your question, it should be ok, depending on how you adjust the stiffness...
+1 to what Rob said, I do adjust the damper stiffness on the fronts quite a bit and the difference is quite noticeable. Also keep in mind that to adjust the rears you have to remove the strut...
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All very interesting and very helpful. I went with a full set of the FSD's: will install the fronts when they need to go in. FSD's seem not to be adjustable, amirite?
Thanks very much to everyone for their assistance above.
I think you're really going to like the FSD's. I haven't yet installed them on a ZHP, but have them on another car and they completely transformed both the ride comfort and cornering stability. This discussion confirmed for me that they'll deliver similar results in this car:
http://www.bimmerfest.com//forums/sh...=135049&page=3
Nothing against the adjustables at all, though. I like FSD's for my driving because my commute is riddled with both railroads and twisties and the shocks are well tuned for both without me having to pull over and make adjustments between obstacles.
Trust me: I've had adjustables before and just set them a notch harder than the middle and went on my way. Even that was more attention than I wanted to pay to the matter. I'm going to enjoy the FSD's.
What are the part numbers for our front control arms? The standard part numbers seem to be 31122282121/31122282122 but those seem to be superseded by 31122341297/31122341828?
Then there's a BMW kit that has both, part no. 31120429578.
Seems like you are right. 31122282121/31122282122 (BMW branded ones) have been superseded by 31122341297/31122341298. I see ECS Tuning's website confirming that:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/31122341297/
However, the Lemforder branded parts still carry the old part numbers:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/31122341297/
Maybe call FCP Euro or ECS Tuning and confirm. It is possible that they might not have updated the website.
I got the Lemforder versions of the ZHP LCA and LCAB as a kit from FCP Euro...
Any way to swap bases on the mirrors - my passenger mirror broke and looking to see if I can keep the gloss black trim.
JB Weld has failed.
Attachment 29743
Get a mirror from a member parting out a car here on the forum & swap over your painted backing if the used one isn't the correct color.
I hate to be THAT guy, but I must ask as I play around with the idea.
I'm quietly shopping and saving for a new E46. My requirements are that it is steel gray facelift coupe with M54 (M56 is a concern in CA). Naturally, this gives me some ZHP's. In a perfect world, I would love to have 6-speed as my signature suggests, but these typically seem to be ZHP's, and ZHP's seem to be remarkably inflated. I've seen one with 150k miles for $7.5k, one with 99k for 6k, and some well north of $15k. It just goes all over the place. Do you guys have a buyers guide or a suggested "don't pay over xx" for a ZHP? thanks :)
Here's a graph on what members have paid vs mileage for their ZHPs in the last three years. This is a very rough estimate and doesn't account for coupe vs. sedan, manual vs automatic, number of previous owners, condition, etc:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...at=interactive
A spreadsheet of all the data can be found here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...Jr7lGTmtw/edit
I'd say that yes, ZHP prices are highly variable. Manual sedans will normally command the highest price since they're the closest BMW came to selling a factory E46 M3 sedan and is what enthusiasts are most often after. Personally I have found that convertibles have the lowest average miles (they were most likely a second car meant more for pleasure drives than daily duty) and tend to have a higher price (both from the mileage and they had the highest base MSRP of the three body styles), but I believe they are often inflated as I would think the convertible appeals to a much smaller group of people. Coupes are somewhere in the middle.
Furthermore, low mileage examples are becoming increasingly rare. They are now 11+ years old minimum for coupes and verts, 12+ for sedans. That's pretty old for a car that many people daily drove. If owners only drove 5k miles/year, that's 55k miles, and most people drove much more than that. That increasing rarity of low mileage examples are raising selling prices, while the number of ZHPs entering 100k+ miles are increasing and I think their prices are falling or at least flattening out for that reason. I personally don't think the price premium is worth the low miles. I bought my one owner coupe (really a two owner but the second owner only kept it for two weeks) two years ago with 49k miles and a manual transmission for $14k. At the time I thought it was still high but I'd been searching for ages and this one had everything I wanted short of four doors which I haven't really needed. Despite the low mileage, I basically did all the preventative maintenance I would have done on a car with twice the mileage because the car was nine years old when I bought it (plastic becomes brittle and rubber dries out). So I paid a several grand premium for a car that would most likely be just as mechanically sound as a car with much more mileage because I would have done a similar amount of maintenance. That said, I don't regret my decision in the slightest. But it's all up to priorities. If I had to do it again, I would widen my search for cars under 125k miles in good condition with good maintenance history and use the saved money for maintenance.
Thanks for the thorough and in-depth reply, I truly do appreciate it. It looks like I might not be ready for a ZHP quite yet....I'll have to see how this year plays out.
I have noticed there's a plethora of convertibles. I guess when I have the funds, I'll just be checking every week for when the right one comes on the market!
You sure you got the color right? There are no factory steel grey ZHPs that I'm aware of. (And no, Stiggisimo's car doesn't count - that is a converted car :) )
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Yes I am! https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ctd/6096812782.html
^^that's one I was looking at. Body looks pristine. That's all I want - a good facelift steel gray coupe. I don't care what M54 is under it, be B30, B25 or ZHP. M54's are a dime a dozen for when you blow one or want more power
Both the CL ad & VIN decoder state it is Silver Gray. Good luck with your search!
2004 BMW 330CI ZHP M-Sport 6-Speed Manual
VIN: WBABD534X4PD97495
Mileage: 153,260
Exterior: Silver Gray Metallic
Interior:Black Leather
Engine: 6-Cyl
------------
Vehicle information
VIN WBABD534X4PD97495
Type code BD53
Type 330CI (USA)
E series E46 (2FL)
Series 3
Type COUPE
Steering LL
Doors 2
Engine M54
Displacement 3.00
Power 170
Drive HECK
Transmission MECH
Colour SILBERGRAU METALLIC (A08)
Upholstery STANDARDLEDER/SCHWARZ (N6SW)
Prod.date 2004-03-08
I can't find the color sheet...can someone give me a link to the color sheets or a comparison between the two colors? My virgin eyes can't tell the difference
Steel Gray Metallic color code: 400
Silver Gray Metallic color code: A08
It seems that the steel gray is darker...Shoot. I think I'd have to see the two side by side. The steel gray looks nicer in my opinion and it's not available for facelift? Decisions decisions...
edit: BMWCurves: I got the color codes, just didn't see the difference. Threw them in Google and found that 400 is darker that A08
My buddy has a Silberblau ZHP with RCR, looks fantastic. Has a 3.38 diff and is fast no doubt.
I now think I'll be looking for a preface steel gray. I like the color that much more. I think the preface looks just as good as facelift. Facelift just makes the car look more modern in my opinion, which I don't care about. Prefaces come significantly cheaper and in much higher quantity. As you said, some Mtech bumpers and bam!
PS:704sw, my buddy and I were both planning on painting our cars Estoril Blue! I just want a gray... but he's still planning on painting his! You should check out Audi's Ava Blue. You can find a pic of one at my local dealer on my IG: https://www.instagram.com/p/BS0DNc0A...n-by=drivingfm
And don't get me started on Silver Grey Metalic.
So something weird just happened a minute ago, went to a Shell gas station to fill up about a half tank. 93 Octane as usual(no 91 available), but after 30 seconds the meter clicked stopping it at 4 or so gallons? Got back in my car and she's only a little over 3/4 full, the handle for the gas was still depressed so it's not like I clicked it to stop. Any ideas? Gas station fluke or something with my car?
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Did you try again after it stopped?
I've had it stop early before, but rarely.