Gracias!
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LOCTITE LB 8008 C5-A Copper Based Anti-Seize Lubricant (Known as Loctite C5-A )
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I also use the Permatex stuff - sems to work just as well:
Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant - A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol – Level 3*
https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/...6/02/80078.jpg
I've e had the same can of the permatex for like 30 years lol, that stuff lasts forever. Recently I started using the copper based stuff I found in the wife's car chemical collection...
On the RAR taillights, are there any protective layers or stickers?
I'm seeing a bump on the transition from amber to red. Also, the inner taillights have a clear strip showing between the transition from red to amber, which I'm not sure is supposed to be there.
Who has used Dr. Colorchip before? How did you like it? I'm considering using it if I hand over my car to have paint correction done and then ceramic coated.
I ended up going with Loctite C5-A/LB 8008. Appreciate all the input, everyone!
Pics?
Mine stock RAR's are like that, as well as much RCRs.
I've used Dr.C before. It was super easy to apply a d the car looked decent from 10ft after I was done. Unfortunately, the car looked just as peppered less than a year later than before the application. I'm not sure if it's because it just didn't last or if I really got that many new rock chips. I can't see the ones I filled anymore...
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This was part of it. There is clear between the red and orange. I believe the orange, among other things, is some kind of sticker overlaid on top of the light.
Attachment 30498
Dr C works great but if you decide to paint they say it interferes w it, not sure of the details.
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I believe DW reported the issue, maybe he has more details. :dunno
I'm struggling ordering LED bulbs for the OEM RCR setup. Can someone weigh in to let me know if this sounds correct for the rear end of RCR?
1 Pair White Reverse Lights 1156 P21W
1 Pair Amber Turn Signal Lights (For the Clear section)- 1156 P21W
4 Pairs Red Brake Lights (1 pair for Trunk lid, 3 pairs for Main Side Lamp Assembly) 1156 P21W
Sounds right to me. You might change your mind on the 3 bottom pairs though; let me know how they work out for you. On my car, the bottom row of lights was WAY too bright at night, and wasn't much different in brightness as the brake light, as though the car didn't know how to turn them down to 50%. Hopefully yours work as intended.
Make sure the red and amber bulb pairs are CANBUS bulbs, otherwise you'll find yourself searching for resistors to add.
Awesome, thanks for the info. Saw your other post in the lighting section and I think I understand better now. Returning all the bimmian/weisslicht lights except for the side indicator LEDs (as your note mentioned you have yet to find bright enough ones) and going ebay Cree canbus sets for 1/5 the price. win!
I've been fighting with my sun/heat trashed door panels for a few weeks now and am about to call the time of death on them. I have alcantara interior, so the door panels have the black/silver fabric that's in the center of the seats. I'm thinking about swapping them for black leather panels.
Has anyone ever done such a blasphemous act?
Am I the only one that would buy a 12 year old Florida car that never had window tint?
Doth ye sun hath nay mercy?
What does the fabric look like now?
It has some separation issues
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And getting this broken down foam out of the fabric to reglue may be impossible
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Oof. I'm not experienced in upholstery stuff, so I can't really give you advice. If you would like to convert your whole car to leather though, I know just the guy with a mint leather interior for sale...
Speaking of Dr. Colorchip.
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For those of you that have a TSE3, did you put that mounting bracket that was on the stock exhaust and connects the exhaust to the transmission, back on the TSE3? It's not in the Corsa directions, but it seems like it could fit on there fine and give it more stability.
This is all that was there when I bought it haha.
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Peter thought the missing pieces might've been the source of a rattle, but I actually think it's coming from the bottom of the down pipe. Those connections are completely shot, so they'll get replaced with the new noise maker.
And no, not yet; it'll probably be late August or September before I get around to it. I'm job hunting right now. I have to escape telecom before the grey hairs take over.
Huh. I went back under there and could not get that bracket to mount properly to the TSE3. Doesn't seem to be affecting anything though. Appreciate it.
Oof. You're the living reason why I don't plan on buying a car that's seen winters in places that salt their roads.
What job are you looking to move to?
When changing the manual transmission fluid, is it a good idea to use maybe half a quart or so to just flush the transmission? Did not do it the last time and I was thinking if I should do it now as I am planning to replace the fluid as it's been about 50k miles. Planning to go with red line MTL btw...
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Airbag light + no horn + no steering wheel buttons means bad clock spring, right?