When the ac is on and I step on gas, I get a hint of burnt oil smell through the vents. Any ideas on what causes this?
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When the ac is on and I step on gas, I get a hint of burnt oil smell through the vents. Any ideas on what causes this?
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So, my AC wasn't working on my 330xi-6MT. I tried recharging the system hoping I'd get lucky but, as usual, that didn't happen. Hoping to get the job turned around quick, I brought the car to my non-certified but beloved mechanic. Well, he found a leak in the evaporator, and he said so much work is involved in getting at it (pulling the dash apart) that he passed on even doing the job. Since I'd prefer to buy a new LSD for my ZHP with the money it'd take to have the dealership fix it, I say "Screw the AC!" The big question is, Should I remove the compressor and other AC-related components to lighten the load?
Removing the dash takes no time at all... you can have it out in an hour if you know what you're doing and two if you don't.
Is Pentosin MTF2 a good manual transmission fluid option for the Zhp?
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Yup it's currently running with red line MTL. At first the gears shifted smoothly but as I put on more miles, the tranny doesn't seem too happy, especially the 1-2 shift. Just thought I'd try a different fluid this time. I was planning on going with the OEM oil but I did a little googling and found that pentosin works very well for the e46 M3. I'm fairly confident it works for the Zhp too but I wanted to confirm. Pentosin also stopped production of the MFT2, so they're not easily available but I found a shop close to work which has it in stock.
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I misspoke... it was the evaporator that's leaking--hence the access issue and excessive labor. Got my second opinion and it was $1,500 as expected. To hell with that... fortunately, we hardly ever sweat in Vermont.
What's the difference? Is ATF fluid less viscous?
https://www.redlineoil.com/news_article.aspx?id=13
Quote:
From 1993 on, we recommend D4 ATF (yes, ATF in a manual transmission).
Redline D4 ATF is where it's at. It's what I've used in my cars since I started driving.
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Like a dumb ass, I left my passenger window open last night and it rained. There was an inch of water in the door cubby and a this stain from a red piece paper on the seat. Anyone know how to get that out?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d3fc82bc0d.jpg
No bueno. I have a similar stain on the Saab. In my case it was a plastic toy. It stayed there for several days and thanks to the TX heat the color transferred to the seat.
If you or your wife have a fabric steamer, I'd try that first. Wrap the end in a washcloth, and let the steam do the work.
Next option I've gotten to work on lighter colored leather, but haven't tried it on black: rubbing alcohol and a nylon brush followed by a couple rounds of leather conditioner.
Ok thanks! Yes, we do have a steamer, I'll give that a try.
Had the weirdest issue with my tail light last night.
Was backing up to the garage and saw that my LR brake light wasn't coming on (no errors). Got out and verified that the inner section of the LEDs (lit in the picture below) were completely out, but the outer ones were on. Weird.
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/wQA8clp1asU/hqdefault.jpg
I dug around and noticed that the lights would flicker on when I pressed on the cable connector...bad connection, right? No.
Finally realized that it wasn't the connector and was actually from me pressing on the board itself. I used a plastic tool to press on a few exposed spots (you can see the green board in the below pic) and it started working fine.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...7&d=1267422967
w.t.f.
Are those OEM? Eagle eyes have varying issues but usuall its with the LEDs themselves. I have a bunch out in one of my turn sugnsls
Thanks for the advise guys. Think I will go with redline D4ATF
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I'm pretty sure they're OEM and were replaced about a year ago when the car was rear ended. I don't see a part number anywhere though.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6768675c27.jpg
Failure when pressing on a circuit board is usually a bad trace on the board or a bad solder joint. It should be fairly easy to re-solder all the connections...
Here's some great reading about the patent: https://www.google.com/patents/US6575611
What's the number on the sticker? 75923681?