If your trunk doesn't sound like a goose, there's a good chance you aren't driving an e46...
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If your trunk doesn't sound like a goose, there's a good chance you aren't driving an e46...
OK guys, thanks! I think, LOL! Saved me money...
Follow-up: does anyone rent this bad boy (or Koch equivalent), or should I just plan on buying my own?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018V...s=pmd+bmw+tool
I’m renting the subframe tool from Shawn, but I’m thinking the rear arm bushings will be far too small for that tool.
I think my climate control is starting to die. It won’t be hot out but I’ll crank the AC(w the snowflake button clicked) all the way up and I won’t feel anything come out of the vent. It works maybe every other day. The heat is what worries me now too going into winter, I just don’t feel the fan at all
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This dude sells them pre-pressed yo
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1119519
When is everyone planning on switching to winter tires?
I'm seeing some lows in the 30s this week with a 32 on Saturday. However the next week the lows move into the 40s. It's getting a bit close, but I think I'll plan for the week after and see how the forecast goes.
Alright guys so my brother wanted to pull my spark plugs last night to check on them. Apparently they’re fuel fouled, not the biggest deal buts it’s an issue.
But that’s not the problem. The problem is that he obviously didn’t put everything back together properly, so this morning 10mins into driving I went to start her up to go to school from the parking lot and I start feeling misfire wobble. I legged it to school on 5 cylinders(which felt dreadful) and now I’ve got my car stuck here until my brother gets out of school.
Anyone ever experienced a misfire before?
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Does anyone know the part number for the cap that should be here?
Attachment 31314
Could it be 64538387437 or does this one look different?
It’s probably a little late for me to be asking, but how stupid am I for doing all this work with the subframe dropped, and not having a reinforcement kit to add in there?
Thanks Justin. I know the later years are supposed to be better, but I also know all E46s are susceptible.
Re: this bushing tool. I definitely it expected it to be a lot easier to use. I’ve only gotten 2 bushings out, and I’ve been working on it for longer than I care to admit.
foam isn't the answer... cars have failed with foam. it does not address the root of the problem.
are you using the koch tool? how do you have it setup? i removed all 4 of mine subframe bushes in about 10min.
as for the RACP... your car has the best fighting chance because it was built after 10/2004, so it has the factory reinforcement panel. this doesn't guarantee it won't fail, but it definitely helps.
the best solution is the VinceBar kit... it addresses the root of the problem and if you don't have any cracks in the RACP, you can install without VinceSkinz.
Cap comes with the pipe. Just go to an auto parts store and get a low side ac cap
Quick question: how many people downshift in day to day life when coming to a stop? Dumb question I know, but my brother claims it’s better to neutral brake than engine brake, says it’s better to replace brakes than a clutch. Opinions?
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For me it depends on traffic (read: traffic dictates if I’m having fun. The turn lane into my neighborhood is on a decline, so I like to rev match into third, engine brake down the hill, and cook it through the turn. I typically only downshift/engine brake with third/fourth in my daily driving.
Edit: but yea pads are obviously a lot cheaper than a clutch.
Rev matching is not going to kill a clutch. It does the opposite. Using the brakes and the engine in unison will keep the car in the right gear for acceleration.
It's not about revving to 6k and then adding the brakes. It's about slowing the car in gear to 2k and then shifting to the lower gear and repeating.
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I’m getting a manual swap next year.. keep talking guys lol I’m here reading everything and taking everything in. Anyone want to mention some mods I can do to a manual and a clutch while we talking about this? [emoji848] lol
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Yup, I do it plenty (even more now that I have my UUC TSE3 exhaust). From my understanding, if you're rev-matching properly, there's minimal added wear on the clutch, transmission, or the engine itself.
Use your brakes; they're cheaper than synchros
Ditto.
I heel & toe fairly often but only when it has a purpose, and to maintain the skill. If you're just in traffic or coming to a stoplight there's no point. It's easier and cheaper to replace pads and rotors than to fix a transmission.
I don't double-clutch. Modern synchros have made this extra step obsolete. It just puts 2x the amount of wear on the clutch pedal/assembly.