It's supposed to sit flush, no gap.
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Sexy gap imo
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You're not wrong. If you haven't figure it out yet, I am...the HOMUNCULUS MAN!
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...Homunculus.jpg
Dane,
I have the same non-autodimming manual knob, and mine appears to sit pretty much flush.
It looks like a rhinoplasty is in order.
Attachment 32213
Salty
Lol. I gave it a half ass push up and it didn't move. I'll mess with it tomorrow. Thanks for the help boys.
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I want to apologize for the photo I linked earlier when referencing the gap in Dane's clown nose. I linked a photo of a pair of female legs, legs that were petite in nature and possessed a small gap. I realize now this post was insensitive and could easily be offensive to anyone browsing the forum who do not agree with this beauty standard. Offending the reader was not my intent. I was simply poking fun at the gap in Dane Wilson's clown nose that he seemed to dislike, with the gap in a petite women's legs that is often found attractive. It was both an attempt at humor and to make Dane feel better about his ever so slight imperfection on his beautiful car. We are all on this earth together, big, small, short, tall - it makes no difference as we are all beautiful human beings. I hope you all can move past my mistake and continue building on this wonderful family bond that we all share and love.
Regards,
-Rob
:waldo
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Lol to that meme. No apologies necessary but nice that you did. All good.
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I bought a new key for my ZHP about a year ago and the batteries in this one seem to already be going. Had to do the ol’ climb-through-the-trunk stunt to unlock my car.
I’m not about to dish out another $130 for a new key, do you think it has something to do with my car? Lately the clock has been resetting itself every time I get it, or when I switch my lights on my radio will go off for a few seconds. Bad battery? Or bad connection somewhere?
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Also the car battery is only a year old as well, bought from BMW
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Any idea on the whole clock resetting issue? As I’m getting closer to 111,000mi it’s worrying me that I won’t be able to reset the trip to get all those 1’s lined up
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Have you checked the alternator or noticed a trend with when the battery dies?
is there an ECS BMW Performance brake Front and Rear kit for the M3 application? the only thing I could find is the front kit for NON M
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble.../341136462akt/
would love if there was a front and rear kit available for M3 application.
Here: http://site.revolutionbrake.com/
And his ebay store: https://www.ebay.com/usr/perfect-bra...?ul_noapp=true
Speak to Kevin there. He has kits, mounting brackets, etc that make the ECS and UUC (UUC can eat a fat dick) kits look like third world trash.
i think he was referring to the BMW Performance one specifically. But I mean the M3 wouldn't have any BMW Performance ones. You would just stick a better BBK on it like PFC, Brembo, or something. The stock M3 rotors are like already the size of that kit I believe.
I really like the 996 brakes on the E46. I think it keeps a pretty good brake bias, and it’s clearly a very proven solution at this point. I think there’s also a pretty extensive thread on M3f about running M4 brakes on the E46 M3 (if your objective is keeping that somewhat OEMish look).
I'm confused..... The link I just posted up there is a link for the green 6 piston BMW performance calipers for E46 non-m.
I thought those brakes also fit on M3s with slightly different modifications or brackets. I'm really not looking for any other brakes besides the green 6-piston ones those are the ones I want. I've seen other and threes with them as well.
I'm very happy with my UUC third world trash Wilwood kit, thank-you-very-much. :p
I don't think there is a bolt-on solution for the rear. The rear requires modifications to the dust shield in order to accommodate the M3 rear rotors it needs. If you don't mind modifying the dust shield then I guess you can call it bolt on. lol
Charlie knows more about this mod than I do.
i found the ECS E46 M3 FRONT 135i performance brake kit on their website eventually. it comes with CSL 2 piece rotors, SS brake lines, pads and fluid
now since im running complete M3 front and rear suspension and brake setup.. im curious on how to run the Rear 135i calipers.... it sounds like since i already have the M3 rear brakes in place , that the 135i performance caliper should just bolt on with no modification to the dust shield? I will go dig through Charlies project thread since I remember seeing some chatter in there about his setup.
i had planned on getting that setup then sourcing a set of rear 135i calipers, purchasing CSL rear rotors which are the same size as US M3 rear rotors just 2 piece and cross drilled and then some SS lines as well for the rear.
Didn't realize you had the M3 suspension and brakes as well. I don't know how the fitment would work for you then. I know that brake components are not compatible between M3 and non-M, despite their similarities. So, with that in mind, you have to buy the kit that is designed for what you have, in this case the M3. Looks like you're on the right track though.
BTW, CSL rotors aren't 2-piece. They are semi-floating, in that they are still solidly attached but have thin veins holding the rotor to the hat. True 2-piece rotors have screws/bolts holding the braking surface to the hat.
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Don't know if you know this ...Be aware that when sourcing the 135 calipers, all of them that came on 135's are silver/grey not yellow
I'm working on install the G.A.S. DISA Gold repair for preventative maintenance. I noticed the gasket that seals around the DISA flap (in closed position) is worn. Is the wear beyond reusing?
I see FCP euro has replacement unit for $160...
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...544805#reviews
Attachment 32331
Do I really need to take my car to a dealership for an alignment? Firestone says they can't do it and I don't understand why not.
Firestone is hit or miss. The one the next town over did my alignment, no questions asked. The one down the street did my alignment as well, but they gave me the "we don't usually align BMWs" and gave me some BS reason, but they caved in eventually.
Interesting. I've never heard of a shop that uses sandbags. Every place I've been to, including the dealer, just uses the rack by itself.
Find you a good service advisor with a tech that knows his stuff:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3702110438.jpg