Most likely leather boot as well, if that's the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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Most likely leather boot as well, if that's the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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Correctamundo. Looks like they all head perf leather wheel and seat colored leather shift boot.Quote:
Originally Posted by danewilson77
ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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I like a zhp badge, why not? Agree, verts came w/leather, but not 100% sure Alcantera was not available.
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This 'vert in the FS section is an '06 with Alcantara seats & perforated leather wheel. http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...-vert-6sp-101kQuote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
My '06 coupe with Alcantara seats came with the perforated wheel & leather shift & e-brake boots. I swapped boots to Alcantara, because!
I think I'll skip the ZHP badge. Maybe get a black 330i badge instead. it's easier anyways.
Anyone run these on their ZHP? I just picked up another ZHP and need control arm bushings badly. It's between these and the Z4M bushings. Car will be daily/autox/HPDE car
http://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensio...-Mounts_2.html
I didn’t even click the link. Get Z4M.
Z4m
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Are those the ones that position the wheel forward in the wheel well?Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Yes, a wee bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
Yes. It’s only noticeable if you know to look for it and are facing the wheel perfectly.
I’ve had stock 18” wheels and 17”; no issues.
I was thinking of replacing the OFHG, alternator pulley, and oil dipstick. The dipstick is in preparation for the CCV kit.
Does the alternator pulley usually go wrong? I'm a complete noob and don't want to venture into things that will get me stuck. But the alternator has to come off for the OFHG anyway, right?
Any tips for fool-proofing this? Tools needed?
Alternator doesn't need to come out for the OFHG no. You can replace the pulley, stock is plastic but it doesn't tend to break. Unless your me and hit it with a rubber mallet trying to put in a new expansion tank and then yes you would need to replace it.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
If you feel like replacing that pulley, you might as well install power pulleys if you don't have them. Best power mod I did to the ZHP, you really notice a difference.
Get rogue pulleys, they are the original. All other pulleys are copies of the rogue.
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Yeah, I have the rogue pulleys on. I'll have to check if I have the right alternator pulley. I thought people were having issues with the replacement.
Today my coolant temp gauge was doing weird things. I turned on the on board digital read out in the test menu.
It would jump from 60 to 90 degree C or visa versa in about 1-2 seconds.
My thermostat is only 4 years old, and this behavior is not what I experienced when it got stuck open and would just stay too cold.
I’ve been having P0118 temp sensor error codes (this is the sensor under the intake manifold, not the fan switch in the lower rad hose).
I want to know if this problem I had today was just more symptoms of that sensor failing, or if this is related to the thermostat.
Strong evidence pointing to a failing sensor. The thermostat would affect the actual operation of the car. The sensor would affect the operation of the gauge/OBD readings.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
? I watched some DIY videos and the alternator is coming out in each video. Alternator pulley seems to be steel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
I need to restore the clip at the front of my passenger kick panel-
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_4312
Attachment 32754
I would like to order both the body-side and panel-side part for the frontmost attachment point.
Can someone tell me which parts I should order? Many thanks...
My mistake, I was talking about the power steering pulley not the alternator pulley.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
I did my OFHG without removing the alternator. Did mine and Justin's old 330i at the same time. It's not hard, just a lot of removing different pieces to get to the gasket.
is it loose at the top of the skirt, or underneath?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dual
if the top, you want #5 and #2, but most likely #2 is still there in the body. how it works is that #5 actually snaps into a channel in the skirt, and then that plugs into #2, which sits in the body. what you don't want is for that channel to be broken in the skirt - then you either have to live with it, or replace the skirt.
Thanks much! My 5 has no 'nipple' as pictured so needs replacement. I will have to examine the skirt more carefully to see if it is intact! Much appreciated.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Any one running 18x8 18x9 with ET35? Have pics?
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Can you provide more details? I'm not sure how that can be done without removing the alternator.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f231ec7880.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by JETSET303
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9994ae0ff5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6e55cb9c3d.jpg
Thank you for the pics. What tires are you running? Using spacers? And is your suspension stock?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
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H&R sport springs, no spacers. Running Hankook ventus V12 Evo... which are narrower than the previous generation of the same tire. Fenders are rolled. Get occasional, minor rubbing with me, wife and two kids in the car going over big dips, etc.
Thanks. Looking at a set of wheels. My suspension is stock for the moment but will be looking to upgrade, or at least refresh, in the near future.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
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I wouldn't go any further out than ET35... even with ET35, you're going to have to roll the fenders...
That's your rear fitment with 18x9 et35? Weren't you afraid of 18x9.5 et35??Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Hmmm. Anybody in Denver got a fender roller I can borrow? Lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
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Yes, the 9.5 ET35 is just a little too far. The the outer edge of the wheel on the 9.0 ET35 is about even with the outer edge of the fender. Another 1/4'' ain't going to cut it and I don't want to deal with aggressive camber and rubbing to make them fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
yep... and you're running a narrow 255 already.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
and... the sectional width increases with a wider tire (it'll be wider on a 9.5" than on a 9"), so that sidewall angle increase will come into play (contact) more with the fender lip too.
we just all need M3 arches. :)
Group buy?Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
ha. there's always the hard motorsport flares... i might do those eventually.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
If I do any flares, they will be welded in... I'll revisit that maybe in a couple of years.
Going to take the money I was using for the wheels and upgrade the heat exchanger for the Laminova cores in the super charger... going with a huge one for the Ford Lighting with dual cooling fans. It will take up the whole lower grille. I've noticed a pretty big drop off in performance once the ambient temperature goes above 75 and it's above 75 down here for a minimum of 9 months out of the year.
https://cfc7329ad537523a5de1-b21544d...s_58ac569e.jpg
cool!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
:ducking
get outQuote:
Originally Posted by slater
I hope so! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
I just put on 18 x 8.5 ET 35.Attachment 32759
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