I been using costco gas for a while no. I believe it is considered a top-tier gas
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I been using costco gas for a while no. I believe it is considered a top-tier gas
I’m about to buy a kit to hardwire my helmet for communications sets (I’m a germaphobe, and using instructor gear grosses me out). Does anyone (and by anyone I mean @theothersawyer @az3579 @stephenkirsh or anyone else who tracks) know if I’m more likely to encounter the NASCAR or IMSA style connector for in-car comm units? I’m fine buying an adapter too, but I’d rather get the one with the more common plug.
Boogity boogity boogity
Believe it or not, there is one particular Shell station in my town that's cheaper than all the other gas stations. Score!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
I've always wanted to look into this but never got around to it. Do tell once you figure it out!Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
BTW, is the @username supposed to do anything? I don't get notified when you do that for my name, so I'm not sure what purpose it serves.
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I got an email notification from Tappatalk when he used that to alert me...
Well I got bored during a conference call and ordered an IMSA wired kit, and an IMSA to NASCAR adapter. I’ll be using the guide in the below link.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...-helmet-radio/
Re: the “@username” yea it’s supposed to notify you that you were mentioned in a post. But come to think of it, the last couple times Nate mentioned me I didn’t get an alert either.
This is what I got when you used @Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7ac927d1a3.jpg
Costco is Top Tier. I use it regularly (esp. the price of Premium).
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Not so much of a question than a rant. Battery in key died. Not a big deal until that stupid plastic clip in the lock cylinder snapped. Now I can’t lock my car. In the middle of a basement bathroom remodel that has turned into a cluster f@$k so can’t get the car into my garage. Holiday weekend so no chance of getting a new key or cylinder until next Wednesday from the dealer and can’t find anyone else that can do it in Denver. Beautiful holiday weekend with no ZHP. Going to have to put it in the in-laws garage and hope to hell my father-in-law doesn’t accidentally scratch it or drop a ladder on it or something. Does anyone know an Indy or locksmith in Denver that can cut and program a key like now?
Huh, guess there was a question in there.
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Mine comes on when it's about .4-.5 quarts low too. Not big enough of a deal for me to replace the sensor.Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
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Ive only ever encountered the instructor sharing style.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Oil pan or front main seal? Don’t say both [emoji15]
Attachment 33022
Classic oil pan leak....
How long does that job take?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Pelican says about 7 hours
I have not had to do mine yet. But his estimate has been close on other jobs
https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm
The subframe has to come down; it's not a quick job.
I’m going to be replacing the OFHG and Oil Cooler Gasket on the X3. Is there any reason to pay for the official BMW gasket instead of a Victor Reinz one?
Does that mean I’ll need an alignment afterwards?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Yep.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Anybody else’s e46 lopsided when jacking up? My passenger side is always 1-2” lower than the driver side.
Driver:
Attachment 33054
Passenger:
Attachment 33055
nope. leave the steering rack attached.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Every time.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
HmmmmQuote:
Originally Posted by slater
What’s up with that?!Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Yup. Happens to me all the time. I assume it comes down to a series of factors including uneven floor, the car not being jacked up quite evenly, the parking brake gripping each rear wheel a little differently, etc.
I swear I heard someone say supposedly the driver side sits higher when empty to account for the weight of the driver. Possibly related?Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Update on the leak:
Dropped it at the shop last night for the dreaded oil pan gasket leak that 3 different shops over the past year+ had told me was the cause, quoted between $800-$1,100, but got a call in the afternoon saying the gasket was fine, just that the oil pan bolts to the timing cover were leaking, so they removed and sealed them, topped me off for the .4 quarts i was low and that i was good to go, all for $66 + tax.
I had started taking my cars there recently because they were highly recommended in town for doing good work and being honest, but this is amazing. It would have been so easy to nail me for the expensive job as the others had tried, so props to them.
Let's hope that was the correct diagnosis for you!Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
Man I wish that was the diagnosis on mine.
Very cool you found a shop like that.
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need to order new grommets, clips and clamps for the sedan door side molding trim.
found the parts on real oem but cant remember how many i need for each door. I want all new clips and grommets for all 4 doors. numbers 4, 5 and 6 in the image.
does anyone know how many there are in total?
Attachment 33068
Does anyone know the difference between the 140mm and 180mm starter? Or how to know which one I need? They’re both listed as compatible with the car.
Me too! He said something about putting some sort of dye in the oil and that if i see any oil on the ground to bring it back in and they'll be able to trace it but was confident i'd have no issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
Last summer i had a lot of water getting into the car and i mentioned a couple weeks ago i had condensation in the headlights so when i took it in for the oil leak i told them about possible clogged drains and they found all of air conditioning, front cowl and sunroof drains clogged, so they cleared them and now my headlights no longer get any condensation :biggrin
Looks to be about a 40mm difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Yea, i am very happy. They did a similar thing a couple weeks ago when i brought in my wife's Jeep because it is having starting issues where it fires up but then sometimes shuts right back down, so i have to wait a couple seconds, cycle through the run/acc/off modes then fire it up again. I thought it was the spark plugs (103K on it) and mentioned it to them but they said it was not the plugs as they were in good shape and could not replicate the problem (of course when it's at the shop it's fine, fking cars) but that after looking it over they thought it was the fuel relay pump (or something like that) for which i had done a recall in the past, so suggested i take it to the dealer for a current recall i need done and have them look at the fuel relay while it's there.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
While i wish they had found the problem, i was happy they didn't try to make me change other things and only got charged half hr of labor.
Thanks, Rob.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
:roflQuote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
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LOL sorry I couldn't help itQuote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Maybe they switched to a different manufacturer later on in the E46 cycle? They did some weird stuff with the alternator that I remember Johnmadd having to deal with when his failed.
Is this a common problem with the bolts? Were they just not tightened fully?Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
I might need to do my oil pan gasket this year. Looking for tips.
You'll need an engine support bar. Other than that, it can be done with common hand tools.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9d189247a7.jpg