Do you remember if your front subframe was secured with hex or bigboy e-torx? Everything on the interwebs says it should be a 16 or 18mm hex, but mine are either E16 or E18.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
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Do you remember if your front subframe was secured with hex or bigboy e-torx? Everything on the interwebs says it should be a 16 or 18mm hex, but mine are either E16 or E18.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
I don't remember buy I have a feeling they were torx
Okay, I’ve got another question.
Since doing my clutch I’ve noticed vibrations when coasting/maintaining speed when I’m right around 2500-2600rpm. It seems isolated to that range.
Could it be that I didn’t get my driveshaft perfectly lined back up, and thus isn’t perfectly balanced? Maybe I was off by a one or two teeth when I put the two halves back together, idk. My giubo and CSB were replaced back in November when I did my subframe bushings. Maybe I didn’t “preload” the CSB correctly, or the CSB carrier wasn’t pushed back up into the butyl enough, even though the nuts were tightened to spec? Any ideas?
Your new flywheel has a pilot bearing in it right?
Mhmm. I feel like the clutch engagement is way too smooth to be coming from the new installation, but honestly I’m not sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
You need to check and see if the flywheel came with it preinstalled. If it didn't, you need to install it. If you run the car without it, the transmission input shaft bearing will eventually fail. I made this mistake 30 years ago with a Ford V8 and and a nice close ratio toploader 4 speed transmission.
Mine did, and they are supposed to, so I can only assume that Spenser’s did as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
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Yep it was preinstalled. I’ll probably drop the exhaust this weekend to make sure I got the driveshaft halves aligned correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Does anyone know if Shawn still offers the M3 mirror retrofit service? I can’t get any DIY’s that properly explain what to do to the mirror base and I’ve given up on my M3 mirror mod as a diy
I’d rather just pay to have it done for me at this point lol
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That's good news.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Can someone tell me what thread the front tow hook needs? I might do a DIY front tow hook license plate mount. Thanks!
M15.8xP3.175Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankeefan
Your best bet is to buy a cheapo towhook off eBay and use it as a base. That thread size doesn’t exist anywhere else, based on my research.
Why. Why did BMW choose this thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Thanks for the info!
Because German Engineering ^TM.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankeefan
I was trying to rig up a GoPro mount that wouldn’t cost $40, saw the thread size, laughed, and hadn’t thought about it again.
What’s the maintenance interval for the fuel filter? The PO changed it at 90k miles and 4 years ago. Car has about 163k miles now.
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Lifetime filter :D
It might not be a bad idea to change it now. I've heard recommendations of 40,000 - 50,000 miles.
I believe it's every inspection II which would be every 30k
30k is way too soon.
Last I checked, the type of filters we have with integrated fuel pressure regulators last between 60-100k. I doubt you'd have to replace it before then unless you're running low tier gas.
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I feel like a lot of service intervals I see online are anecdotal, but it's a relatively cheap part to replace every 50-60k miles on the lower end. $60 for MANN last time I checked.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
99% of my fill ups have been at shell until recently (moved to Costco). Guess I’ll buy it next time I order from fcpeuro and get it done when I have sometime. Thanks guys!
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Any thoughts on what a set of 2 Burger Tuning 12mm spacers should cell for with 9! Extended lug bolts?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...80f4eca5c.heic
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...970ef8fe0.heic
so i removed my back seats tonight to fix my seat belts, and noticed this wire just hanging out not connected to anything. Does anyone know what it is for? I started the engine and it seemed to run fine, so i don't think it is from the fuel pump? Just a little concerned something that should be plugged in is not...
Attachment 33222
Your best bet is to add a 10th bolt to your next ECS order and sell them as a set.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
We all have that little guy hanging around. Prevailing theory is that it's used in transport and never again.Quote:
Originally Posted by papa_g
Oh thank God
I love how to this day, nobody truly knows wtf that was used for.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Part of me hopes the answer is never confirmed. It’s good to keep a little mystery in the relationship.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Im in the process of replacing my front fender. One T30 screws on top is being a pain in the ass. I've been soaking it WD40 but it won't budge. Anyone have any other tips for loosening it up? Its starting to strip a bit and i don't want to take any more chances with it.
I assume you’ve hammered the bit into the head and everything? One of the torx on my DISA was stripped, and I had to drill it out. I’ve replaced a lot of the torx bolts with new SS hex hardware.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
hmmmm. no thats a good idea tho. let me run out and give it a shot.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
you know, i'm all about doing things like james may, but sometimes you gotta take a page out of clarkson's book. Hammers are good. That worked perfectly.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
https://i.imgur.com/2IfuCO3.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
https://i.imgur.com/UAktKmk.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Need to step my hammer game up...
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Using a "real" penetrating oil vs. WD-40 makes a difference, too. PB B'laster, Kroil, 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
gonna keep that in mind. thanks for that!Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
Thanks. Or maybe I'll just sell as-is (or without the bolts) and let the buyer buy them. I actually somehow have two extra sets of 12mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Any rubbing with 12mm?Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
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So I’ve been wanting to do some leatherique treatment to my interior and I feel like my drivers side I going to need some touch up dye. Because of this I’ve toyed with the idea of just getting new covers. I don’t have heated seats currently, but thought about doing the retrofit in the future.
I saw this pop up last night.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123207412461
I’m thinking of just letting the leatherique set on this for a couple of days and then swap it into my drivers side, that way I’m “pre-wired” for heated seats. I would just keep an eye out for a new passenger side and then do the same.
I was watching a DIY on YouTube and the guy said the heated seat connection wasn’t the same as what he had in his car already. Dose anyone know if there are different connections for heated seats? I would have assumed they were all the same.
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I haven't found Leatherique very helpful on BMW leather later than the mid-90s - BMW used a different process where the leather color is more painted on & sealed vs. older leather (E23/24/28/30). The Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil doesn't soak in very well. I'd try some Griot's or Sonax leather cleaner.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
I did not know that was true of Montana, but I definitely knew Leatherique was useless on Napa. Thanks for the heads up.Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
I just tried (yesterday) Leather Rescue Leather Conditioner and Restorer on just the front seats in my convertible.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seats are black leather and at 79K miles were showing lighter colored creases and some wear on the driver bolster. They darkened up nicely and seem more pliable. The visible bolster wear has almost disappeared. I'd give it a thumbs up. I could already live with the result, but I may try another application to see if that makes any further improvement.
Wish I had taken before pictures, but here's the drivers side/bolster after: