Anybody have experience with a foggy, dull almost oxidized appearance of the trunk tails on their ZHP? I’ll post pics once I get outside but it appears like mine are oxidized from the inside which is strange.
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Anybody have experience with a foggy, dull almost oxidized appearance of the trunk tails on their ZHP? I’ll post pics once I get outside but it appears like mine are oxidized from the inside which is strange.
I think the UV coating on them is just weak af, so they tend to crack/spiderweb with age. You could always try cleaning them first, but I think replacement is the only option.
http://www.impee.co.uk/bmw_rear_light_clean.htm
Thanks for the link. Looking at them again, I think you're right. They're toast.
Attachment 33956
Okay familia, can someone educate me on fighting insurance battles?
I just got a call from the other person’s insurance adjuster and she is trying to tell me they cost of repairs “are getting very close to being considered a total loss.” You’ve got to be f***ing kidding me. Now obviously this has upset me greatly, and I may or may not have told her “if you classify this car as a total loss we’re going to have a pretty serious problem.” What are my options? If they call it a total loss, how does one go about buying the car back from the insurance company? Is there anything I can do to prove to them this car is worth more than a run-of-the-mill 330ci? I just want my car back...
For them to classify it as a total loss, they must’ve valued it pretty low. Do you have an estimate for the repairs from them and know how much they valued your car at?
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Is the Insurance Co State Farm?
If so, they devaluate and lowball everything.
Your improvements and their value can be presented - throw the receipts at them
and then beat them like the liberal protesters they act like.
i have bought the "total Loss" car back from the Insurance and fixed it for less than the difference. Now it shows as a Salvage title - but its not like you had plans to sell it.
So they valued the car at $4400 which is BS.
If you don’t mind having salvage/rebuilt title then you will have to prove it to them that your car is not a regular 330, which I’m sure they think it is. Now I think some insurance companies/agents take a look at other listings as a factor and some don’t so you will have to find out what they need in order for you to prove that your car is worth more. There is no point in wasting your time and making a list of all FS ads for zhp‘ only for them to say they won’t consider those.
If you want to maintain a clean title then I think there is a way to make them pay partially. I haven’t heard this from anyone else apart from a friend who drove his f30 into a low hanging metal wire which cause scratches all over the bonnet, tiny few scratches on sunroof glass, boot and roof. His deductible was $500 and when he got the estimate back they said they would paint the panels that have scratches but would have to replace the sunroof glass since they can’t remove the scratches any other way. Now he said he didn’t mind the few scratches on the sunroof glass so he was able to negotiate with the insurance company (geico) to not replace the sunroof glass (saving approx $500) and he would pay $0 deductible instead. Now the reason I brought this story up is because I remember you saying the headlight needs to be replaced as well which might be pushing the price up (price of new e46 headlights are quite expensive iiirc) into the total loss territory. So if the headlight just needs a new lens cover (can pick up from a yard as can’t buy em new), then you can try and negotiate to see if they can fix everything else except that and once you get the car back, you can fix the headlight yourself out of pocket. Even if the headlight is completely broke, you can get another once from a yard. Hope this helps.
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Takes some aggressive negotiating. It has never happened to me, and I don't claim to be the best negotiator, but my best friend once got his Infinity G35 coupe t-boned in an intersection. Total loss, and he got paid roughly the same amount he bought it for 2-3 years prior through some negotiating using receipts and other facts about the car. Just my $0.02
Being angry ain't gon help nothin fam
Be sweet to em, ask them what you can do to help them value the car or what they're seeing as the high cost items and they might actually want to help you. Their job is to spend as little as possible and they get a hard on for sticking it to people that are assholes.
I was absolutely pleasant right up to the point where she said it so nonchalantly, as if totaling the car would be some kind of a relief for me. As if she was doing me a favor. I asked her what I could do and she said nothing. I’m going to call her back this afternoon to discuss further.
My wife sees this all the time with insurance claims. They lowball everything and if the customer doesn't protest, that's what they get.
6 months ago, State Farm tried to make them put a used engine in a 5 series with only 6k on the odometer. That car is still sitting there...
I think they are definitely lowballing the value of your car.... sounds like they're basing it on a 325 or something
Send her over to Bring a Trailer to look at the completed auctions for the ZHP, just put zhp in the search engine and it will bring up quite a few and remind her they are all paying the buyers premium over the auction price ........ she has to have documentation to be able to pay over the book price and this should do it ...
Does anyone have experience with these metal wall posters?
They look amazing.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/5964932...?ref=related-2
Attachment 34020
I think I’m gonna swap out the beige carpet for a black one. Does anyone know if there are any differences between the sedan and coupe carpet? Sedans are hard to come by and coupes are a dime a dozen.
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I have arc8 17x8.5” et40 wheels and have stock alignment. Does anyone know if I can run 12.5mm spacers at the rear with rubbing on my zhp coupe?
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You could give these a shot and go from there
2pc 3mm 5x120 Hubcentric Wheel Spacers (72.6/72.56 Bore) Extremely Lightweight for many BMW Vehicles: 318i 320i 325i 328i 335i M3 428i 435i M4 525i 528i 530i 535i M5 Z3 Z4 640i 645ci E36 E46 E90 E92 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQGVGWC..._djnVBb83CG0MM
Well at 3mm, there isn't really much point if you're doing it for the look... It's not going to look much different.
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Has anyone experienced a really loud squeak coming from the clutch? Every time I press or release the clutch quickly it squeaks. This weekend I'll work on figuring out if the sound is coming from inside the cabin (like the pedal spring) or from behind the firewall.
There is a bushing on the clutch pedal that wears through. That can cause a squeak. UUC makes a Delrin replacement if that turns out to be the culprit
For those of you who have Z4M front control arm bushings, what is your Caster setting for Left and Right? Actually, now I am curious what that caster is for the ones with the regular FCABs too, Left and Right.
not sure if this is what you need, but I just looked on my last alignment receipt and it says Front caster: min 5.10 max 6.10
for regular FCAB's not Z4M
From what I’ve read, between worn out components and what I’m guessing is slight strut tower deformation, it seems like most E46s aren’t able to achieve a proper caster numbers.
Has anyone done a repair to the antenna rear glass connection?
I have ordered some electrical conductive adhesive, anything else?
When i took it to get the oil pan gasket fixed i noticed in the invoice they put 8 quarts in. Today I looked at the oil level and the entire center block is wet and oil touches a bit of the next section covering the 1st number in whatever that code represents. Is it too much oil and if so, how do i drain a little bit without ramps? Attachment 34106
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Ok cool. Thx. Wish the dipstick had the max line the way others do
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