I have a rattle of sorts coming from the passenger door or possibly the B pillar. It kind of sounds like a ping pong ball bouncing around. It intensifies based on the size of the bump, and reverberates until it dies down. Any ideas?
Printable View
I have a rattle of sorts coming from the passenger door or possibly the B pillar. It kind of sounds like a ping pong ball bouncing around. It intensifies based on the size of the bump, and reverberates until it dies down. Any ideas?
Could be the seatbelt bearing, any issues pulling it in and out?Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I checked the seatbelt. Everything seems fine. I'm pretty sure it's in the passenger door, and it rattles with the window up or down. Best option is probably to take the door trim off and take a look inside. Too bad it's a bit cold here.Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
That sounds like the best bet, somethings probably just loose, hopefully it warms up soon enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m doing a zkw kit from The Retrofit Source. They include nearly 0 instructions.
Anybody know what all these extra rings are for? I purchased the optional bulb holder, so I’m assuming they’re not needed, but who knows.
And the retrofit source’s cust support is shit.
The customer support used to be incredible back when it was just “Matt @ TRS” running the show out of his garage. As with most small companies, they completely lost that with growth.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Do you have pics of what you have? Is it just the ZKW clear lenses or total projector overhaul?
The picture didn’t post in the first one. Oops.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Attachment 34448
Hey everyone. I really need help with this. Straight up, I've self taught myself everything I know about cars. I've only had auto's. I have a ZHP 6spd transmission and am thinking of doing the detent pins. Is there any DIY for this? The transmission was properly expensive and frankly so are these detent pins if I'm looking at the right things.
This is the diagram I've been referring to: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=23_1054
Essentially thinking about grabbing everything on that page except the caps.
My transmission has 77k miles on it. Is this perhaps something to put off for a few years? Or is this like, probably so necessary that I should just do it now? I'm not afraid to drop the transmission another time in a few years, but I am currently scared of messing up the transmission by doing this job. Any advice on if I should do it, only certain ones/certain gears, and a DIY would be greatly appreciated.
What about the detent pins, exactly?
You shouldn't have to do anything with the transmission's detent pins. Are they defective?
I've never heard of issues with anything other than the clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing. If you're referring to preventative maintenance, then I guess my answer would be "there's no need" for replacing those.
detent pins are usually an issue on the 5spd zf gearboxes iirc
Okay glad I asked! Then I won’t be doing them. Again sorry I’ve only dealt with autos and the way people talk about the 5spd I assumed the 6spd needed it too
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
question for anyone who has taken apart the center console and put it back together for whatever reason (e.g. to refresh that peeling rubber mess):
Why is this happening? I put it back together and it seemed very straightforward. took it apart again to see if maybe something was getting the in the way. I cannot for the life of me figure out why this part won't fit back flush again.
Attachment 34495
I wish I could help, but the only time I took my armrest console apart was to remove it.
I think you can manhandle that piece by hand to get it into place. That piece is separate from the armrest.
Are the two wires into the ambient temperature sensor polarized (not sure the right word) at all? They are the same color, and when my car was hit they ripped out of the plug. I’m trying to splice them together but don’t want to short or damage anything.
You just snap it in. The arm rest needs to be up a bit (like 45 degs or so) I believe as you push it down. You want to do it with the rear tray removed first though.Quote:
Originally Posted by papa_g
I'm pretty sure they aren't. But you could just test them like I did. I just strip some wire and just tie it together enough to make a connection then go to the car and see. It takes a bit to register and then you'll see the temp change.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Aha!! Going to try this nowQuote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
So my dumb ass put the screws in before putting the unattached piece in. Didn't go down all the way because the screws were in the way. Probelm solved.
I'm curious if there's anybody that has the OEM BMW performance kidney grills sedan fitment. do the grills themselves have the full part number anywhere on them or do they have like a partial different number on them?
I just picked up a zhp' parts car a few weeks back starting to tear down now the grills on it were damaged and the sense that the back has were broken at the clips but the fronts are still good so I can repair them I look at the pictures online of the OEM performance grills and they look just like it but I can't find anywhere that showed the part number on the plastic anywhere.
The only numbers I see on it BM 07010 - 2 and -3
if they are not OEM then I'm just going to trash them not worth saving but if they are the oem ones I will try to fix them.
Does anyone have a good diy on adjusting the door handle? A while back, I did this DIY and I think it made my door more difficult to open and close (like the latching mechanism doesnt fit right anymore: https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=647631
I also adjusted the screw inside the door with this DIY, and did not help: https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=372060
Appreciate any help on this
G
I quickly took a picture this morning before leaving to work. It's a little hard to see but that's what I see written on my grills from under the hood. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...185387e67e.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Thanks man, that confirms mine are not OEM. �� Appreciate it!
Anybody ever had a defective floater in the ET? It sinks no matter how full the fluid is.
Attachment 34601
Maybe the foam broke off the bottom of the stick?Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
Still can’t get it up!? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
That’s the white thing, right? If so, it’s still there.Quote:
Originally Posted by 3LiterStraightSix
I'm at almost 191k and I have my FCPEuro cart loaded with like 50 things. I'm pretty much wanting to shotgun everything that hasn't been replaced since the birth of the car (Mostly suspension stuff and sensors and the coolant pipes under the intake). Is this a good idea or am I jumping the gun cause it's kinda expensive lol. I do plan on trying out some autocross this year (2019)
I’d think preventative maintenance is key before any type of hpde.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes on cooling system.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
Depends on suspension. It’s most likely shot, but if you start getting into autox you may want to do upgrades.
This is for a stock refresh. Upgrades are in the cards, but I need to establish a baseline first.
I'm tired of doing preventative in bits and pieces, time to cry once and smile for the rest of the year. :D
With an aging BMW, that's just a dream. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
It definitely suits the OCD to do it all at once though. It's nice not having to do them in pieces for sure.
Makes life a lot easier having everything apart, just have to be a bit more meticulous keeping track of everything.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
What's the preferred BMW VIN decoder these days ? My favorite one was bmwvin.com but it's not working anymore.
https://www.mdecoder.com/ does a good job usually.Quote:
Originally Posted by fredo
I use this one too:
https://decoder.bvzine.com/
Has anyone experienced a low grumble from what sounds like the transmission/drive shaft tunnel when starting from a stop when they've driven in heavy rain and through a few deep puddles? It does not affect driving, does not occur at other RPMs or driving situations, and goes away after ~20 minutes if you've parked. I'm assuming 20 minutes is the time needed to drain whatever water got into some nooks and crannies. Thoughts?
Yup, all the time. It's more of a grinding noise than a grumble.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
It's a loose exhaust clamp in my case, and allows the pipes to move around more than they should. The last time we found it, we tightened it and it was fine for a long while, but it has come back.
So why the association with heavy rains? Driving through puddles knocking the exhaust bracket loose?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Don't know. The only thing I can think of is the temperature difference when the cold water hits the hot pipes.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
What are the common causes of poor gas mileage? Today i put in 15 gallons after 302 miles and been getting 20-21 consistently, probably since i've had the car. Seem to remember getting mid 20s (24-26) in my previous zhp?