The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

Getting ready to do the CDV delete as I wrap up Inspection II with the fuel filter, could I use the leftover amount of ATE Type 200 brake fluid I have had since April to bleed the clutch afterwards or should I buy a new unopened can?

It's been sealed tight in it's original can since about mid-April, stored indoors.

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Originally Posted by NoVAphotog

Getting ready to do the CDV delete as I wrap up Inspection II with the fuel filter, could I use the leftover amount of ATE Type 200 brake fluid I have had since April to bleed the clutch afterwards or should I buy a new unopened can?

It's been sealed tight in it's original can since about mid-April, stored indoors.

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I would think that this should be fine, though it may have marginally higher moisture content then if you were to open a brand new container. That said, I cannot imagine that it would cause you any trouble, unless you are driving 10/10ths at the track. (Sometimes I do this myself - use an already open container to top off, etc. and have not had an issue.)

What oil catch pans do you use? I'm looking to get a better one.

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Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy

What oil catch pans do you use? I'm looking to get a better one.

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Mine isn't deep enough and I often slosh oil out of the spout. I saw one at Advance the other day that looked deeper and like it had a cap that screwed onto the end of the spout (to prevent sloshing).

Might have been this one: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...searchTerm=pan

Don't forget they will take your old oil (no gas or anti-freeze).

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Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy

What oil catch pans do you use? I'm looking to get a better one.

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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one and it is great.

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Originally Posted by NoVAphotog

Getting ready to do the CDV delete as I wrap up Inspection II with the fuel filter, could I use the leftover amount of ATE Type 200 brake fluid I have had since April to bleed the clutch afterwards or should I buy a new unopened can?

It's been sealed tight in it's original can since about mid-April, stored indoors.

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Reminder from Bruce on Colin's project thread: "note to self, don't wear a long sleeve shirt when you do the CDV removal. It's going to run on your hand and down your arm, I had 2 layers of long sleeve on today and could feel the wetness until I finished my other job. You only need 2-17mm open ended wrenches and 1-11mm open ended wrench. If you're quick in doing this, you lose a little bit of fluid but no pressure bleeding required. A 2nd set of hands is very helpful to be quick.
Bruce" Though I guess you won't have that issue as warm as it has been.

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Originally Posted by ELCID86

Mine isn't deep enough and I often slosh oil out of the spout. I saw one at Advance the other day that looked deeper and like it had a cap that screwed onto the end of the spout (to prevent sloshing).

Might have been this one: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...searchTerm=pan

Don't forget they will take your old oil (no gas or anti-freeze).

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Thanks. Generally I don't change my own oil (I know, I know, I just hate it). However, the few times I have done it, I discovered quite a few places will take it for recycling. I think I still have oil from my Subaru in the garage to be dropped off.

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Originally Posted by NoVAphotog

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one and it is great.

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Thanks. I have that one you linked to from Amazon. Maybe I'll just get a extractor. Dane still seems like his.

I'd change it prior to storage. When it comes time to drive it, the last thing you'll want to do is change the oil.

WWDWD


Goin' HAM mobile

I use the wally world $5 pan... Works perfectly fine. http://www.walmart.com/ip/RhinoGear-...n-Pan/20440557

It has shitty reviews and I definitely wouldn't use it for transportation. I drain into it and immediately transfer in empty 5qt container for recycling.

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Originally Posted by danewilson77

I'd change it prior to storage. When it comes time to drive it, the last thing you'll want to do is change the oil.

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Yup. And that way it'll be fresh for a 'spirited' drive :)

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Originally Posted by UdubBadger

WWDWD


Goin' HAM mobile

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Rofl

You're crazy Seth.

The friendliest forum on the planet.

LOL

Anybody have any tips on removing the dome light housing on the C pillars? Supposedly you just pry along the forward edge, but I'm concerned about the amount of force I'm having to apply.

I Have a video of me doing it on YouTube. It's in my diy thread in e46f somewhere lol. But you want to apply more force than you think. It may bend the 2 metal tabs, but that's fine.I Think all the fits are based off mines or something.

What's this?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/16/dave3equ.jpg


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Originally Posted by ELCID86

What's this?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/16/dave3equ.jpg


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I think its a road noise sensor. Goes into your lower fender liner.

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Originally Posted by Avetiso

I think its a road noise sensor. Goes into your lower fender liner.

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That is where it mounts. I had to replace the part of the wheel well as it got damaged by road debris. I thought maybe it was hooked to the xenons or something. Does it work with the stereo?


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There's a road noise sensor?

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Originally Posted by ELCID86

That is where it mounts. I had to replace the part of the wheel well as it got damaged by road debris. I thought maybe it was hooked to the xenons or something. Does it work with the stereo?


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

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Yup. What it does is adjust the loudness of the sound system with response to road conditions. So, if you are going 80mph on a crappy freeway and then you hit a perfectly paved offrampat 35mph, obviously your sound system will be too loud. So it quiets it down, and vice versa.

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Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

There's a road noise sensor?

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Yup.

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Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

They're not nearly as bright and they use more energy than xenon. I was surprised my ZHP didn't come with them as an option.

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I had a car with both and was fine with the halogens. Though the xenons were a bit brighter (and have the coolness of the shutter!)

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Originally Posted by Avetiso

Yup. What it does is adjust the loudness of the sound system with response to road conditions. So, if you are going 80mph on a crappy freeway and then you hit a perfectly paved offrampat 35mph, obviously your sound system will be too loud. So it quiets it down, and vice versa.

Yup.

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I new that this could be adusted in the audio setting, but didn't know it was actually tied to a "pickup". Makes sense. Thanks!

Yea I thought it was speed sensitive, not based on a sensor for noise.

I don't even like that feature!

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Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

Yea I thought it was speed sensitive, not based on a sensor for noise.

I don't even like that feature!

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Nah, if it was speed sensitive you wouldn't need the sensor. I don't mind it. I've only found it intrusive once or twice.

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Yea I didn't know there was a sensor lol

It's a good idea in theory but it bothers me in reality, so I turned it down to the lowest setting. Maybe being in a vert makes it tougher on the system?

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Originally Posted by johnrando

It's a good idea in theory but it bothers me in reality, so I turned it down to the lowest setting. Maybe being in a vert makes it tougher on the system?

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Perhaps. The worst is when it breaks. Fluctuates like crazy.

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Both of my key fobs have stopped working. I replaced both of the batteries with CR 2016s and I'm still getting no response. Am doomed to buy a new key?

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Originally Posted by NorCal-Dimitri

Both of my key fobs have stopped working. I replaced both of the batteries with CR 2016s and I'm still getting no response. Am doomed to buy a new key?

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Try recoding your keys: http://www.bmwgm5.com/key_recode.htm

My keys died and the above did the trick for me.

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Originally Posted by Avetiso

Nah, if it was speed sensitive you wouldn't need the sensor. I don't mind it. I've only found it intrusive once or twice.

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I'm pretty sure it's just speed sensitive because if I put it at a setting that works well with the top down it will make it way too loud with the top up.

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Originally Posted by Karl Lazlo

Try recoding your keys: http://www.bmwgm5.com/key_recode.htm

My keys died and the above did the trick for me.

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Thanks, man! It worked like a charm!

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Originally Posted by wsmeyer

I'm pretty sure it's just speed sensitive because if I put it at a setting that works well with the top down it will make it way too loud with the top up.

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Road noise wouldn't change depending on the top because it's detected from under the car. At least that's how it makes sense to me.

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What do you guys think of hooking up a set of jumper cables from a running vehicle to the battery in my car as a power source for a Shark Injector flash? I posted on my autoX club's forum looking for somebody with a suitable charger for the flash, and somebody suggested this. Personally, I'm not convinced that its a good idea, but I thought I would run it by the Mafia guru's. My suspicion is that the donor vehicle/battery would not provide a stable enough power supply.

My car is coded for daytime running lights, so Conforti says to use a continuous 20 amp charge. Somebody suggested pulling the DRL fuse so I would only need a 10 amp charger. Looking at a fuse panel chart, I don't see a fuse specifically for the DRL's, just a reference to a "light module". Again, what do the Mafia guru's think of this idea?

I asked a local indy shop for a quote on having them do it. They wanted ~ $175 + tax to do it. For that money I could by a 20amp charger and do it myself. :)

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Originally Posted by Avetiso

Road noise wouldn't change depending on the top because it's detected from under the car. At least that's how it makes sense to me.

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Honestly it never occurred to me that there would be a sensor outside the cabin, or external to the radio unit for that matter. Sounds overly complicated and counter intuitive to the fact that the noise you're most concerned about is that inside the cabin.

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Originally Posted by Stewbie

What do you guys think of hooking up a set of jumper cables from a running vehicle to the battery in my car as a power source for a Shark Injector flash? I posted on my autoX club's forum looking for somebody with a suitable charger for the flash, and somebody suggested this. Personally, I'm not convinced that its a good idea, but I thought I would run it by the Mafia guru's. My suspicion is that the donor vehicle/battery would not provide a stable enough power supply.

My car is coded for daytime running lights, so Conforti says to use a continuous 20 amp charge. Somebody suggested pulling the DRL fuse so I would only need a 10 amp charger. Looking at a fuse panel chart, I don't see a fuse specifically for the DRL's, just a reference to a "light module". Again, what do the Mafia guru's think of this idea?

I asked a local indy shop for a quote on having them do it. They wanted ~ $175 + tax to do it. For that money I could by a 20amp charger and do it myself. :)

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I think battery charges come in handy and a replacing / reprogramming a DME is probably going to be in the $600 range. Plus the whole issue that you don't just run down to the local auto parts store to get one.

That being said, I'm an impatient guy and running jumper cables to a running car is the type of thing I'd be tempted to do. The potential problem is that it's not that uncommon for idling cars to kick their fans and momentarily dip the rpm's. When this happens the drop in voltage may cause problems with the programming. Other than that, you're typical alternators can kick out at least 60 amps even at idle so in theory would provide more than adequate current / voltage to keep the Shark happy.

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Originally Posted by wsmeyer

Honestly it never occurred to me that there would be a sensor outside the cabin, or external to the radio unit for that matter. Sounds overly complicated and counter intuitive to the fact that the noise you're most concerned about is that inside the cabin.

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Makes sense to me too.

I'm saddened to learn there's a dedicated sensor for this. Cars are getting too complicated, even in he e46 era lol

Does anybody know the part numbers for the two screws that hold the radio and the two screws that hold the vent above the radio?

They're circled in this picture: http://www.bokchoys.com/differential.../parrot_06.jpg

BSW recommends turning the auto volume off completely, as it adds distortion.

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Originally Posted by TristanHunter

Does anybody know the part numbers for the two screws that hold the radio and the two screws that hold the vent above the radio?

They're circled in this picture: http://www.bokchoys.com/differential.../parrot_06.jpg

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Did you try realoem.com? I'm on my phone and can't.


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Originally Posted by wsmeyer

Honestly it never occurred to me that there would be a sensor outside the cabin, or external to the radio unit for that matter. Sounds overly complicated and counter intuitive to the fact that the noise you're most concerned about is that inside the cabin.

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I'd agree. It was even worse in my VW so I'm not complaining but I'd definitely rather live without it.

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