Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
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  1. #671
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Bend, OR
    Posts
    797
    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Lazlo View Post
    Try recoding your keys: http://www.bmwgm5.com/key_recode.htm

    My keys died and the above did the trick for me.
    Thanks, man! It worked like a charm!
    -Dimitri; 19

    98 Dakar Yellow M3
    Recaro - Ground Control - Macht Schnell - AP - Mashaw - UUC - Schroth - Apex - TMS

  2. #672
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    6,875
    Quote Originally Posted by wsmeyer View Post
    I'm pretty sure it's just speed sensitive because if I put it at a setting that works well with the top down it will make it way too loud with the top up.
    Road noise wouldn't change depending on the top because it's detected from under the car. At least that's how it makes sense to me.

    Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
    2004 E46 Imola Red 330i ZHP
    2008 E90 Sparkling Graphite M3
    2011 E70 Black Sapphire X5 35d

  3. #673
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    316
    What do you guys think of hooking up a set of jumper cables from a running vehicle to the battery in my car as a power source for a Shark Injector flash? I posted on my autoX club's forum looking for somebody with a suitable charger for the flash, and somebody suggested this. Personally, I'm not convinced that its a good idea, but I thought I would run it by the Mafia guru's. My suspicion is that the donor vehicle/battery would not provide a stable enough power supply.

    My car is coded for daytime running lights, so Conforti says to use a continuous 20 amp charge. Somebody suggested pulling the DRL fuse so I would only need a 10 amp charger. Looking at a fuse panel chart, I don't see a fuse specifically for the DRL's, just a reference to a "light module". Again, what do the Mafia guru's think of this idea?

    I asked a local indy shop for a quote on having them do it. They wanted ~ $175 + tax to do it. For that money I could by a 20amp charger and do it myself.
    __________________________________________________

    2008 128i ZSP Sedonarot

    ---

    2004 330i ZHP Imolarot
    Conforti Shark Injector - Installation Pending!
    AFE Magnum FORCE Stage 1 PRO 5R Intake
    ECS Tuning Strut Bar
    ECS Tuning Magnetic Drain Plug
    German Auto Solutions DISA Gold Valve
    CDV Delete
    BSW and Polk Drivers
    Ziza LED Interior Kit
    Khoalty CREE LED Reverse Lights
    BMW strut tower reinforcement plates


  4. #674
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Redondo Beach, CA
    Posts
    1,944
    Quote Originally Posted by Avetiso View Post
    Road noise wouldn't change depending on the top because it's detected from under the car. At least that's how it makes sense to me.
    Honestly it never occurred to me that there would be a sensor outside the cabin, or external to the radio unit for that matter. Sounds overly complicated and counter intuitive to the fact that the noise you're most concerned about is that inside the cabin.
    2006 CiC 6MT
    ZHP, Cold Weather, Xenon
    Sapphire Black / Black Leather / Black Cube

  5. #675
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Redondo Beach, CA
    Posts
    1,944
    Quote Originally Posted by Stewbie View Post
    What do you guys think of hooking up a set of jumper cables from a running vehicle to the battery in my car as a power source for a Shark Injector flash? I posted on my autoX club's forum looking for somebody with a suitable charger for the flash, and somebody suggested this. Personally, I'm not convinced that its a good idea, but I thought I would run it by the Mafia guru's. My suspicion is that the donor vehicle/battery would not provide a stable enough power supply.

    My car is coded for daytime running lights, so Conforti says to use a continuous 20 amp charge. Somebody suggested pulling the DRL fuse so I would only need a 10 amp charger. Looking at a fuse panel chart, I don't see a fuse specifically for the DRL's, just a reference to a "light module". Again, what do the Mafia guru's think of this idea?

    I asked a local indy shop for a quote on having them do it. They wanted ~ $175 + tax to do it. For that money I could by a 20amp charger and do it myself.
    I think battery charges come in handy and a replacing / reprogramming a DME is probably going to be in the $600 range. Plus the whole issue that you don't just run down to the local auto parts store to get one.

    That being said, I'm an impatient guy and running jumper cables to a running car is the type of thing I'd be tempted to do. The potential problem is that it's not that uncommon for idling cars to kick their fans and momentarily dip the rpm's. When this happens the drop in voltage may cause problems with the programming. Other than that, you're typical alternators can kick out at least 60 amps even at idle so in theory would provide more than adequate current / voltage to keep the Shark happy.
    2006 CiC 6MT
    ZHP, Cold Weather, Xenon
    Sapphire Black / Black Leather / Black Cube

  6. #676
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    2,974
    Quote Originally Posted by wsmeyer View Post
    Honestly it never occurred to me that there would be a sensor outside the cabin, or external to the radio unit for that matter. Sounds overly complicated and counter intuitive to the fact that the noise you're most concerned about is that inside the cabin.
    Makes sense to me too.

    I'm saddened to learn there's a dedicated sensor for this. Cars are getting too complicated, even in he e46 era lol


    His: 05 330 ZHP Imola Red - 07 Z4 M Coupe Imola Red
    Hers: 04 330i ZSP
    2004 325 M56 Steel Blue Metallic - Sold
    Stephen's DD & AutoX/HPDE Build Thread
    Stewart WP - Z4M LCAB - M3 trans/motor mounts - DICE MediageBridge Duo - ARC-8 17x8.5"
    DrVANOS - Mason Engineering Race Strut Bar - E30 Exp. Cap - Custom Black+Beige Interior - M3 Seats
    Bilstein PSS10 - Turner Sway Bars 27/21 - ECST RTAB Limiters - R.E. RSM


  7. #677
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    58
    Does anybody know the part numbers for the two screws that hold the radio and the two screws that hold the vent above the radio?

    They're circled in this picture: http://www.bokchoys.com/differential.../parrot_06.jpg

  8. #678
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Ottawa, Great White North
    Posts
    343
    BSW recommends turning the auto volume off completely, as it adds distortion.

    Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk
    orange260z

    2009 Porsche Carrera S Coupe PDK/Sport Chrono Plus - Porsche Racing Green / Sand Beige Full Leather
    1999 Miata - Brilliant Black/Tan Leather

  9. #679
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
    Posts
    14,444
    Quote Originally Posted by TristanHunter View Post
    Does anybody know the part numbers for the two screws that hold the radio and the two screws that hold the vent above the radio?

    They're circled in this picture: http://www.bokchoys.com/differential.../parrot_06.jpg
    Did you try realoem.com? I'm on my phone and can't.


    Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

  10. #680
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    6,875
    Quote Originally Posted by wsmeyer View Post
    Honestly it never occurred to me that there would be a sensor outside the cabin, or external to the radio unit for that matter. Sounds overly complicated and counter intuitive to the fact that the noise you're most concerned about is that inside the cabin.
    I'd agree. It was even worse in my VW so I'm not complaining but I'd definitely rather live without it.

    Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
    2004 E46 Imola Red 330i ZHP
    2008 E90 Sparkling Graphite M3
    2011 E70 Black Sapphire X5 35d

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