So, that's a thing? Guess I should start doing it, had not heard about that.
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So, that's a thing? Guess I should start doing it, had not heard about that.
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If I don’t put the X3 in neutral before going into park it’ll lunch forward (or backwards if I was backing in) after I remove my foot from the brake once in park. I’ve never experienced that in any other AT car but have heard similar stories from other X3 and X5 owners with that GM-supplied gearbox.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
I've always done that. My father told me years ago to set the brake first - "it takes all the weight off the parking pawl."Quote:
Originally Posted by papa_g
So now years later, (many) you've made me look that up.... From Wiki regarding parking pawls:
Recommendations
Most vehicle manufacturers and auto mechanics do not recommend using the transmission's parking pawl as the sole means of securing a parked vehicle, instead recommending it should only be engaged after first applying the vehicle's parking brake. Constant use of only the parking pawl, especially when parking on a steep incline, means that driveline components, and transmission internals, are kept constantly under stress, and can cause wear and eventual failure of the parking pawl or transmission linkage. The pawl might also fail or break if the vehicle is pushed with sufficient force, if the parking brake is not firmly engaged. Replacement can be an expensive operation since it not only requires removing the transmission from the vehicle, but it's usually the first component to be installed in the gearbox case during a complete rebuild.
Thanks Dad!
This is definitely not a BMW thing. Every old school automatic car I've ever witnessed parking (traditional non-electronic parking brake models, meaning older cars) lurched forward after being placed in park and the foot off the brake, regardless of the make or model. Some may be better about it than others, but I always wondered why it would be designed like that whenever I saw it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
My original comment was actually geared more around the act of putting the transmission in neutral first, then applying the parking brake, letting the foot off the foot brake and letting the handbrake take the full load, then finally engaging Park, all in that order. I noticed a difference between doing this and just simply pulling the parking brake before putting it into Park. I think it's an important difference to take the weight off the transmission before putting it into Park, not just in one fell swoop. The instructions in your post make it seem like just pulling the handbrake and then putting it into park is enough, but there's still a little bit of stress on the transmission when it finally goes into Park because the stress wasn't completely relieved first before being put in Park.Quote:
Originally Posted by pedro2u
Are you guys just pulling the parking brake and putting it in Park without letting foot off the brake in between or are you putting in neutral, parking brake and relieving stress, then Park? I'm curious if you notice a difference. On mine, it still feels like there's a tiny bit of stress still on the tranny if I don't put in neutral/pull handbrake/foot off brake first before putting in park.
I never thought I'd think so much about an automatic transmission before... I need a good drive in the ZHP to cleanse me of this automatic mayhem. LOL
Thoughts on paint correction price?
Took it to a local detailer who is very well known in town for doing a fantastic job and when he looked at the car he said my paint was in pretty rough shape with tons of imperfections and pointed out some stuff i didn't even realize/notice. He said to bring the imola fully back and "pop", that it'd need a decontamination & paint correction. The price? $900. I know it'll come out looking great but if "really good" somewhere else is a lot cheaper it would be worth it to go to that somewhere else.
Is this price a "pricey, but not extraordinarily given the quality you're getting", or is it "dude, you can press charges for rape on that deal. Run for safety".
Edit: he couldn’t fit me in til 2nd week in December and had to put 50% deposit and will have car for 4 days. Deposit is refundable assuming I give enough lead time.
Seems pricey to me. I got this quote 2 years ago for $300 : "wash, paint decontamination, wheels cleaned, tires dressed, sealant applied. Includes stage one machine polishing to enhance gloss and remove light scratches."
My black Saab had some holograms, the above took care of it.
BP, this my sequence :
1- stop at designated spot, my foot is on brake pedal
2- put car in neutral
3- engage parking brake
4- release foot from brake pedal, verify car doesn't move
5- put car into Park
Has anyone ordered sunshade clips only to find the screws won't fit? The screws provided are too coarse a thread for my shade, which uses fine threaded screws...
The part number says it fits my car. I don't get it...
PN: 54137134516
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Yeah I do it exactly how you described: neutral, let go of brake, apply parking brake, put gear into park. I do notice that when I do this, there is less NV when putting in D or R, versus the conventional parking method.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
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What is this automatic you guys speak of?
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Damn, automatics are hard to drive!
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Sounds like better deals in TX - that's the rate here in the DC area for a light detail at a fancy car wash vs. true paint correction from a detailer. There are bargains out there, but too frequently you get what you pay for. For $900 you should be ecstatic with the results - that's still cheaper than some pros here.Quote:
Originally Posted by fredo
Newfangled invention.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
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I can't believe I'm in my late 60's and I'm Googling this for the background.... :facepalm I'm really loving my 6MT now!
I'm not finding by Googling that anyone is suggesting putting the car in neutral before setting the handbrake, but it certainly seems like its the same thing. Most sites just say to set the handbrake and put it in Park. And I always thought that mechanically Neutral and Park were essentially equivalent with the exception that the Park positioned included the parking pawl to lock the drive train.
I'm sure both methods achieve the same result since the end result is being in Park (drive train locked) without any stress since the hand brake has locked the wheels via the braking system
This is exactly what i do with an auto. Most of the time when i do this there’s no resistance the next time i shift out of P.Quote:
Originally Posted by fredo
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I have an acquaintance looking to see is someone has a surplus zhp diff input flange?
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Hey, sorry to bring back this question, but I think I am more concerned about the actual leak at this point. Figured out this is the output flange that needs to be replaced. Thankfully it is on the passenger side (exhaust not in the way). Does anyone know any DIYs out there, I was not able to find any. Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by papa_g
Anybody here from Texas? Got a line on a relatively cheap blower from ActiveAuto but want it inspected before pulling the trigger.
I’m also in contact with VFengineering to see if we could potentially get a group buy going here through this forum... hoping they say yes otherwise the Stage 1 active auto is mine [emoji2371]
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Austin TX here.
Houston here
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I believe he’s located in Spring so idk how far that is from you lolQuote:
Originally Posted by rguti153
Truth be told, Just want someone to inspect the kit and if possible meet up at a shop that knows turbo’s/superchargers to see if it’s worth his asking price or if it will be needing a rebuild
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Thanks for the offer Fredo! Should’ve been more specific, the guy is in Houston lolQuote:
Originally Posted by fredo
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That's probably wishful thinking... lolQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon
I don't think most of us have a few grand just lying around waiting to be spent!
There are other reasons not to get it like added weight, complication, and the fear of more force on the RACP.
In addition to cost and other cons mentioned above I’d like my car to stay NA.
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Bought some butyl tape, but was worried it wouldn’t fit in that small of a gap. Bought some 3M emblem and trim adhesive, and it’s holding. Says water and heat resistant so we shall see...Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon
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You can probably work knead it to be thin and pliable enough to just adhere the trim to the body. I’ve heard good things about that 3M product, hope it all works out!Quote:
Originally Posted by papa_g
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Keep finding folding M3 mirrors over seas and no one wants to ship me them :(
Does anyone know if E9X folding mirror motors are the same as E39 M5/E46 M3 folding mirror motors?
They fold the same way and share the same mirror glass & housing basically.... just wondering if there’s another alternative to this lol
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Been a while since I posted last, I searched for battery threads and these kept popping up. Short story below.
Need a new battery for my 2005 330i ZHP, the factory Bosch batteries seem to be discontinued at least at the local retailers. What is a good alternative, or do i just bite the bullet and buy whatever BMW feeds me, and an excessively marked up price?
The one that I just pulled out is model: 94R-730B
Pep Boys carries them. The H7 size is the equivalent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xceler8
I just reached out to 3 local stores and non of them had any that would fit. They were being super evasive on the phone too, they are apparently going to stop carrying them and kept trying to push a Champion battery on me which I guess is their in house brand.
I just know these cars are high maintenance and I'm going to be having a local shop reflash everything since I was having issues with the car before I parked it and dont want that to cause issues. I guess worst case I'll just get one from BMW but I know they will bend me over.
... sorry so the H7 is the equivalent size for the Champion battery, from what I read they need the AGM battery type aswell. I appreciate the quick response, my 2003 VW TDi Wagon lost a timing belt on the highway last so its pretty much dead, so wanting to get the ZHP back on the road again. So below is the battery that I need to get correct?
https://www.pepboys.com/champion-agm...662?quantity=1
Honestly, I have one of these: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...000%7CL3*15597Quote:
Originally Posted by Xceler8
Thing's a monster, but it's made in Germany, has a pretty damn good warranty, and fits with factory mounts. You should also be able to find a coupon to save you some cash.
Make sure to save the venting tee from your current battery.
900 CCA :oQuote:
Originally Posted by Chaplian
Yep! I LOVE it. Back when I used to daily E46s in winter, it laughed at starting in -15f or -20f.Quote:
Originally Posted by papa_g
My OE AGM from BMW lasted 13 years.
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You don't need the AGM battery, but the Pep Boys offer is decent at $50 off. Wet cell is fine - also $50 off. Buying from the dealer is insanity. Advance Auto, Autozone, Walmart or Costco should also carry what you need.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xceler8
I would definitely recommend an AGM battery. They don't need to be vented, which is a big benefit, and they last longer and perform better until they give out.Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
Thanks guys for the input, I would have overthought the situation. Glad these aren't as high maintenance as I would have originally thought on the battery front.
While I have you guys engaged here, I know there are a few issues that I'm going to want to address immediately since they were at the point of needing work when I parked the car for the power steering pump failing.
- What is the best resource to source OEM or better quality coil packs without getting bent over
- Same as the above for spark plugs, and are their specific specifications for the ZHP models, or other considerations here (mods below)
- How often do the fuel pumps fail, and will a good shop be able to test fuel pressures. Car was falling on its face after about 3500 RPM and more than 60% throttle where when it was running right would pull harder all the way to redline.
Relevant Mods:
- Dinan Intake
- Dinan Catback
- Shrik Cams (not sure on spec)
- Shark injector tune
If you plan on keeping your car for a long time, get your parts at fcpeuro. If not, just search for cheapest deal. Bosch coilpacks and NGK spark plugs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xceler8
Fuel pumps, properly maintained, can last a while before giving soft failure symptoms like poor fuel pressure and long crank starts. With fuel pump, it depends on how long the car is on, not necessary how many miles.
I would just rent a fuel pressure test kit at autozone and read fuel pressures over the course of a few hours. See if they gradually drop or stay static.
Good practice would be to let it prime in key position 2 before starting the engine, and not letting tank run to E, to get the most life out of your pump.
Not really sure about the mods.
Agreed, but not sure about the choice of Bosch coils. Here's the forum conversation re: coils - see the last few pages:Quote:
Originally Posted by papa_g
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15721