I think an easy way to check was whether it had a duct or not. Mine didn't and had the rounder plug.
FWIW try swapping just the voltage regulator first, seems to have done me and a bunch of e46f guys the trick rather than replacing the whole thing
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Have a buddy who works for Bosch in Germany and he says all they do is cut costs all day. I made the mistake of buying a Bosch coil that ended up lasting 3 WEEKS. Replaced it with an actual quality part and haven't had issues since. I would avoid Bosch at all costs.
I've replaced my 90v with a 120v remanufactured Duralast alternator. It was less expensive than the 90v with lifetime warranty. It's been a year with no issues.
Maybe this place, Maniac Electric Motors, has applicable parts (link). I don't have experience with them, but might try one of their rebuild kits.
Is Rein a good option for power steering hoses?
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What was the actual issue in using Rein power steering hoses? Just curious to know the discussion that was had regarding use of Rein power steering hoses...
I found this discussion and with exception of the high pressure power steering hose, the use of Rein hoses was okay.
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...+steering+hose
I believe for ZHPizza the hoses collapsed soon after installation. For me they started leaking soon after installation. Quality is simply bad on Rein parts.
I think mine made it 8 months but basically disintegrated and collapsed. I remember getting on FCP Euro and seeing similar feedback in the reviews. This was a few years ago though they may have fixed it since then.
@san if you're willing to risk doing the job twice FCP did of course make good on their warranty and gave me credit towards the genuine BMW hose when I said I wanted that instead of more Rein trash.
For folks that got fuel injector cleaning done, would you recommend it? I’ve heard pros and cons, with some saying it brought back lost performance and the other side saying it does more harm than good…
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If the car has >150k miles then it's prob worth it, in my opinion. The upsides are the injectors will be balanced and spraying as it should be, and the performance maximized. The downside is you might find an injector that's beyond cleaning and require replacement - this I see as an upside, too.
There was a guy on the forums, "MEPEH," that was doing it for people. I had it done on the m3 at around 160k, he sent me before and afters. It's nice to have objective data to confirm the difference.
Prices seemed to have gone up quite a bit in the last few years. RC Injectors are now $29 each. InjectorRX.com is about $22 each.
Before, looks like all but #2 was low:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ps...-no?authuser=0
After, not perfect, but much better:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pc...-no?authuser=0
I'm not sure how the different providers compare. For $5 each, I was pretty happy with the outcome. I can't seem to find him anymore.
Thanks Will!
I’m inclined to get them refurbished since I’m at 215k miles for the reasons you mentioned. But just trying understand if there are any negative reasons that I haven’t thought of and so far the only complaint I’ve heard from some folks is possibility of injectors leaking post refurb…
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What all is needed to swap an S54 into our cars the best way possible? front to rear bumper, whats the best way to make that swap work.
I'm not sure, but user "nextelbuddy" on nam3forum.com has a great example of what you're talking about. Maybe he has a build page in his post history (link).
https://nam3forum.com/forums/filedat...6&d=1687239707
User Bry5on has a great example. Wagon, too!
(link to build page)
https://nam3forum.com/forums/filedat...0&d=1670813853
Edit:
Here's another s54 engine swap thread, maybe it'll have some more info:
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...and-sedan-swap
https://nam3forum.com/forums/filedata/fetch?id=220736
How complete do you want it to be? If you want it to be an as close of an M3 replica than IMO you have to by an M3 to donate all of its bits. If you just want an S54 then you can get away with piecing it together. *This is in regards to everything BUT the body work.
This is 99% of the parts for an S54 conversion the way I do them.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CXERewHL3N_/
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2ec3dba7_z.jpg
Hi, George. That's a good drone pic. :thumbsup
Does anyone where the black internal torx screw, that looks like the DISA valve screw, only shorter goes in and around the intake manifold?
I’m struggling to upload pictures using Tapatalk for some reason, but basically it’s a small black internal torx screw that I removed when I was replacing the coolant lines under the intake manifold it I cannot seems to remember where it goes now.
It’s this screw-
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...10-11611708274
Thanks in advance!
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Did you remove any of the metal brackets that attach various things to the manifold? I took my manifold off the other week, the only place I remember encountering internal torx on mine were on the 3-4 brackets, and there were 2 different head sizes if I remember right (T25 and T30?)
Okay sorry for the delay. I see 3 fine thread T30s
-2 below the throttle body facing upward
-1 to the right of the ICV, it attaches the bracket that holds the “sucking jet pump” thing on the brake booster hose
The other 4 torx I see are coarse thread and smaller than T30.
Hmm, I’m not missing those…
I had to remove the intake again today (dropped the cylinder 6 fuel injector between firewall and engine, got stuck right next to the starter) and didn’t see any missing screws.
I think I’ll just leave it in my lost and found box and hope that my car doesn’t miss it.
Thanks again Spenser!
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Dropping things into the abyss is so frustrating!
While you have that apart let me ask you: are the metal spring clip doo-dads that hold the O2 sensor wires to the fuel rail all rusted up on your car? I’m addressing some rusty hardware while I have stuff taken apart and those 2 things look particularly bad…but since they’re just raw metal with no coating I’m assuming they get crusty on everyone’s car.
Does the vacuum line between the fuel pressure regulator line and F connector need to be something special, or will any vacuum hose be sufficient since it’s only fuel vapor and not direct fuel contact?
Thanks, that confirms what I saw when searching the part number I got off RealOEM. That short section of flexible line on my car has a different texture than normal vacuum hose—it’s the same as the flexible bit on the purge valve lines. I’m assuming it’s factory original, and that it was “fuel rated,” but there’s no text or anything.
Anyone have experience with the Üro aluminum PS pump pulley? My pulley is cracked, that aluminum one is the same price on Amazon as a Febi plastic one from FCP.