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Dinan intake + exhaust do produce nice sound, can confirm, my son has that combo and gets constant compliments.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I do like it more than Afe + stock exhaust on mine and thinking of getting Dinan exhaust.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AM1GO
I have not heard the DINAN intake and DINAN exhaust on the ZHP but can say from experience that the Gruppe M intake and UUC CORSA TSE3 exhaust with stock headers does sound amazing and the car was peppier in performance as well... the other thing I really loved about the setup I had on my last ZHP was the burble sound the car made while cruising at low speeds... just sounded right with the ZHP...
Been thinking about that DINAN intake for some time now for that little extra sound. Wish I could hear it in person though, hard to make a decision based on descriptions.
Getting the DINAN badge is nice to have but in my opinion, you're overpaying for the performance gain and the name... there are better solutions out there for the money....
Unfortunately there aren't though, DINAN is the only affordable intake that maintains the stock box design. Would also love the BMW Performance intake but I think that train has left the station a long time ago considering the prices.Quote:
Originally Posted by cakM3
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...00729ace42.pngQuote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
You're right because the Gruppe M intake I use on my ZHP run around $400 used and retails close to $800 brand new...
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The GruppeM intake is my favorite noise-related modification if I could only choose one item. The TSE3 exhaust bundled with it is really great. Sometimes I find the burbles a little childish, but it really puts a smile on my face and that's all that matters to me (and isn't overly obtrusive to neighbors, which is also important).Quote:
Originally Posted by cakM3
I wish I had an actually good mic to record what it sounds like. It's maybe 10-15% more volume than stock, and a deeper, throatier sound overall. I'd be pretty happy with a Dinan setup. This is an okay example video of it:Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMq_3AMA8N4
I don't remember much of a change in performance when I swapped to the GruppeM / UUC TSE3 exhaust combo in either throttle response or otherwise, but my butt dyno isn't very sensitive. I think almost any bolt on intake/exhaust shouldn't be purchased with the expectation it'll drastically improve performance for the E46. Mostly go down to preferred sound / price point.Quote:
Originally Posted by cakM3
For any non-M you need to consider boosting the car any significant performance related "upgrade" and that alone will cost $$$$ if you go down that path. For me it has been purely for sound and some performance but not entirely for HP gains.... I have an M3 and Porsche to scratch my "go fast" itch... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Thanks for the video. It actually sounds quieter than my current setup (stock intake + ZHP exhaust), but I think that's mostly because I get a lot of metallic rasp through the Group N mounts.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
We'll see, given the reasonable price I might just impulse buy the DINAN intake one of these days.
Cell phone videos don't really capture sound well at all for this purpose. If you watch a video of a stock ZHP, it sounds quieter, almost anemic compared to that video.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
I like the sound of the Gruppe M, but on my car, it actually felt like it lost performance vs. stock. I forgot that I swapped it out with my buddy when he needed a stock intake for smog. I was wondering the whole time why my car felt a bit sluggish but sounded better lol
That's funny Hieu because I experienced the opposite. Better intake growl yes but my car also feels peppier after installing my Gruppe M intake. I actually look forward to driving my car with this intake installed.... I don't have actual data but just feeling the car as I drive it tells me having the Gruppe M installed is better than stock. Just my observation... but then the air where I am is much cooler then it is where you're located....:)Quote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
Updating my list for my own reference
Green = parts already purchased
Maintenance
Fluids
- Brake fluid: Flush every two years (previously every one year). Continue to use 1L ATE SL6-1.
- Transmission fluid: I've passed the 30k mile mark and should probably change it for cheap maintenance. Currently Redline MTL, but will try Ravenol 75W-80 stuff per this thread.
- Differential fluid: At 30k miles, should flush sometime soon. Continue to use Redline 75W90.
- Power steering fluid: Overdue by a few thousand miles (30k interval) and about one year overdue for flush (five year interval). Continue to use ATF. See below regarding power steering lines.*
Mechanical items
- Power steering lines: Leak noted previously by my mechanic. Relatively sure it's the feed line (32416774215[?]), but may also be the return hose (32416796390) or suction hose (32416750155). Should also just assess if other lines/components need to be replaced.*
- Track down source of significant coolant leak or replace the cooling system.
- Replace leaking oil filter housing gasket (OFHG, 11421719855): Will purchase recommended BavAuto Viton version from ECS here, since BavAuto was absorbed by ECS.
- Replace soft fuel lines to/from fuel filter
- Replace differential bushings: One of them (unclear which) was found to be cracked by BMW dealership during complementary inspection. Will purchase OEM rubber parts (front: 33176770788, rear: 33176751808).
- Adjust upper (13541438761) and lower intake boots (13541438759): Replaced when installing ZHPizza's large bore throttle body, but don't seem perfectly aligned (some bend in the upper intake boot).
- Replace AC blower: Although squeaking/fluttering sound has improved, will at some point need to replace the AC blower motor
- Replace driveshaft guibo/flexdisc (26117511454) and the center support bearing (26127501257). DIY guide here.
Exterior
- Repair cracked/dying rear window gaskets using this guide
- Replace or renew fading side markers
- Replace the hood and trunk gas struts (51238202688 / 51248254281, respectively) with Stabilus units
Miscellaneous
- Replace spare tire: I believe mine is original and should be replaced (I think it is T125/80R17)
- Get alignment following Bimmerworld spherical RTAB installation (see below)***
Modifications
Suspension
- Install used M3 27mm front sway bar (31352229755) and install correct bushings (31352229756).
- Install front sway bar end links (31356780847)
- Install Bimmerworld Spherical RTABs.***
- Install 330Cic or Xi rear sway bar (33556751267) w/ correct bushings (33551096669)
Engine/drivetrain:
- Install M3 fuel baffle (16112229656)
- Install M3 motor mounts (11812283798 [2x])
- Purchase/install LSD of some sort with 3.23 or 3.38 ratio
- Purchase/install the M56 valve cover per this thread or purchase German Auto Solutions CCV Replacement Kit
- Fabricate/install custom brake duct air scoop: Using this guide
Electronics
- Recode the car as a convertible to have one touch up/down windows: Using this guide. Would also require new center console trim and window switch (61316902183)
- Install M3 gauge cluster if someone can figure out coding the shift lights for a manual, non-M car.
- Install Bavsound Stage 1 speaker kit
Interior
- Repaint the Black Cube Trim to Silver Cube trim: Using this "guide" and Precision Grey paint from Advance Auto.
- Fix lower steering wheel trim through this guy
- Install the euro tray (51167038323)
- Consider ID4Motion's digital cluster
Exterior
- Purchase/paint brake calipers black using G2 kit
- Install used OEM Shark Fin
If you are looking for a clutch based LSD that’s BTO let me know. I had an excellent experience with Performance Gearing. He has a race and street version. You can spec the final drive and ramp angles. I have been very happy. I chose to buy my own for the more acceptable final drive over an M3 read, and because I had concerns over the M3 clutches. I also heard the ramp angles are aggressive on the M3 differential to make the car feel edge and exciting rather than performance.
I personally chose him for the lack of core return and he has some adaptable mechanical clutch mechanism. More clutches for the money and adaptable locking depending on driving habit. I don’t want to attempt to explain it as the owner would do a better job. He oozes passion for what he does.
Looking forward to a review/feedback on the spherical RTAB’s.
Nice, I'll tuck that info away!
Yeah, these are all not immediately being addressed, with the exception of finding the coolant leak. But am hoping to get that taken care of and then do the RTABs and the front sway bar.
Current mileage: 86,777
Some maintenance:
My car has sat for the past couple of weeks because it has a significant coolant leak. Ostensibly the only fault point was the junction between the upper radiator hose and its connections to the expansion tank and the radiator. Whenever the engine was running, coolant would pool at below the filling neck and then slowly spill out, but it was so bad that basically every other trip I had to fill with coolant.
I tried to see if any other leak existed using some dye and seeing if it reflected under UV light. No additional leaks were identified. Another symptom was increasingly loud chirping from the engine compartment, which, by the state of things, could be any of the pulleys (including the idler and tensioner pulleys that were recently replaced) because of how much leaked coolant was being sloshed around during regular driving. I thought it was the alternator as it was covered in coolant and made me nervous, so I purchased one of those automotive stethoscopes, but by the time they arrived, the chirping had died down a bit and was tough to localize at idle (now only present when under acceleration).
So backing up a bit, I figured I had a coolant leak with likely culprits being the upper radiator hose (17127510952, Rein) or expansion tank (BMW, 17117573781). Since I was replacing those, I bought a new coolant level sensor (17137553919, BMW), some coolant (82141467704, BMW), and figured it wouldn't hurt to replace the return coolant return hose (11531436410, Rein). Unfortunately, I thought I had purchased a lower radiator hose (11531436408) as cheap maintenance while I was in there, but looking back through my receipts, I hadn't :facepalm. To chase down the chirp I decided to again replace the idler (11287841228, INA) and tensioner pulleys (11281748131, INA) and return them using FCP Euro's warranty in the near future. I again thought I had purchased an additional pulley for the AC compressor, but realized I just foolishly purchased an additional idler pulley.
Yesterday I put those parts in without too much problem. I referenced a few videos and guides (see below), but for the most part remembered how things should go. The one thing that annoyed me is I could not get the engine block drain plug out. I think my mechanic must have torqued it like crazy, which is unlike him, but I couldn't get it off with a ratchet, a breaker bar, a bigger breaker bar, or an electric ratchet. Defeated and not wanting to strip the plug, I left it be for someone else to deal with. I put it all back together and couldn't find any leaks. I had to bleed the circuit twice but it finally blows hot when it's at 91F and high fan speed. Additionally, the chirping I had heard seemed to have been eliminated so I am left with trying to decide if the chirping was somehow the pulleys I replaced or magically the alternator stopped being sad. Any thoughts on if an alternator gets sprayed with coolant, it could damage it in some way that I should be concerned about?
Cooling system references:
- https://bmw330ci.net/maintenance/completecoolant.php
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne1TYgnTCCg
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKFE919xuoA
While I had the car up on jack stands, I also installed a used 26mm front sway bar I purchased in 2019 from an M3 part out car (31352229755, BMW) and then some new sway bar bushings (31352229755, BMW). I used some copper anti-seize lubricant both inside the bushing and outside against the bracket. Unfortunately, when trying to install some new end links (31356780847, LEMFÖRDER), I couldn't find (or only imagined I had) my thin set of wrenches so I couldn't tighten them down. I removed them and I'll leave it either for my mechanic or I'll buy a set of thin wrenches.
Sway bar references:
- http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...stallation.pdf
- http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_front_eibach_sway.shtml
Both my hood (51238202688, Stabilus) and trunk struts (51248254281, Stabilus) were quite weak - my hood has attempted to kill me several times by just "giving up" and falling on my head). I followed a couple of videos, but it seems pushing the connector clip forward rather than up is the better method to releasing the strut.
Hood / trunk strut reference:
Finally, I rotated my tires because it was due.
I plan to have my mechanic give the car a once over for the power steering line, put in my Bimmerworld spherical RTABs, install the end links, and if I'm feeling lazy, have him install the oil filter housing gasket and replace my differential, transmission, and power steering fluids.
I've been able to tighten it with a regular adjustable wrench. It will seem like you are damaging the rubber but it will be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Also for the transmission fluid let them put in Genuine BMW. I used it for 50k miles and when I drained it, it looked identical to the new fluid and had no visible wear or shavings. Shifted smoothly too, which can not be said of the Red Line stuff I have now.
I was definitely doing damage to the rubber and I'd rather not pierce the rubber prematurely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
Also, what's the part number for the normal transmission oil? I found 83222339219 and 83222339221 but don't know which. I'll happily try it.
+1 about end links and using genuine bmw tranny fluidQuote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
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Interesting, just a normal ol' adjustable wrench?Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Attachment 38805
And which BMW part no. did you use for the transmission fluid?
That can work yes. I think last time I undid them, a friend was just able to tighten them using an impact wrench. But the first time, I used adjustable wrench and pliers.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I unfortunately have red line right now, so I know it’s not great. I drove a friends car with OEM fluid and it was much better. I was going to try this next time-
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/75w...mw-83222339219
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Lol in the LEMFÖRDER packet that it comes in, it specifically says not to use any sort of powered wrench. Love it.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Pliers? On which side? I can get the nut on fine with a socket wrench, its the back side holding the end link still that's tough.
Ah okay, so the 83222339219 stuff, 75W80 MTF-LT-2.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
I forget, do those end links have an internal hex on the end of the ball stud? You could run it down with a regular wrench (painful) or ratcheting wrench (less painful) while using an allen key. You can still torque it up once the joint has enough friction to hold itself together.
Or yeah, use an impact on the low setting with less of a trigger finger, and you can still torque it as well
Lol ya, I think as long as you don’t damage the rubber seals, it’s fine. I used pliers to hold it from behind to stop it from spinning while I tightened it down.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N52WJRT/
[emoji102]
Y'all out here being too smart
Yeah, pretty much just holding that back part so it doesn't move. This one time, I just used a metal fork (like eating utensils). I just cut the 2 middle ones and bent the outsides until it could hold it. then tightened down the nut. It's not stupid if it works lol
I just noticed that you're approaching 100k mark. Two more years or so?
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Date: 02/17/22
Mileage: 86,777 miles
- I changed the differential fluid using just over 1 quart of Red Line 75W-90 GL5 (purchased two quarts). Read my old post to remind myself that it needs a 14mm hex to remove both the fill and drain plugs. The drained oil itself was dark but certainly not overly dirty so I'm happy with this 30k mile interval I have. I had previously installed crush washers on both (part no. 07119963355) but that seems to be for cars with drain/fill plugs that don't have a rubber washer built. My plan is to replace both the drain and fill plugs next time as the rubber looked a little worse for wear (part no. 33117525064). For the job I couldn't find my fluid pump but purchased this one I found on Amazon and it worked fine despite the description specifically saying it will not fit Red Line bottles. The pump can't screw down on the threads of the Red Line bottle but it functioned fine. Torqued them to 44 ft-lbs (60 Nm) per this thread that states it is from their TIS manual
- I also changed the transmission fluid. I was debating between Ravenol 75W-80 stuff per this thread, or BMW's transmission oil (83222339219), but I felt a little less comfortable with the Ravenol, and then my local BMW dealership was billing me $48/liter so I went with the two liters of Red Line D4 ATF this time around. I'd like to replace both the drain and fill plugs because they were stripping (part no. 23117531356). Per the above thread, I torqued the bolts to ~38 ft-lbs (50 nM).
- Finally I was able to connect the new LEMFÖRDER end links (31356780847) using this slim wrench. I was only able to get a torque wrench into the wheel well at the strut (48 ft-lbs per ECS Tuning's guide), but not on the sway bar so I tightened it to "won't fall off" Nm of torque.
Unfortunately, I still have chirping coming from the alternator so I would like to have that looked at, as well as the OFHG at some point, Bimmerworld spherical RTABs installed, power steering fluid flushed / checked for leak at the high pressure hose, and check the battery since the car would not turn over after only sitting for a week.
Hope you like not being able to put your gears in when it's cold.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
List updated as of 02/21/2022
Green = parts already purchased
Maintenance
Fluids
- Brake fluid: Flush next year (half way through two year cycle). Continue to use 1L ATE SL6-1.
- Transmission fluid: Replace in 30k miles. Currently Redline D4 ATF, but will try either Ravenol 75W-80 stuff per this thread or BMW's transmission oil (83222339219)
- Differential fluid: Replace in 30k miles. Currently Red Line 75W-90 GL5
- Power steering fluid: Overdue by a few thousand miles (30k interval) and about one year overdue for flush (five year interval). Continue to use ATF. See below regarding power steering lines.*
Mechanical items
- Power steering lines: Leak noted previously by my mechanic. Relatively sure it's the feed line (32416774215[?]), but may also be the return hose (32416796390) or suction hose (32416750155). Should also just assess if other lines/components need to be replaced.*
- Replace lower coolant hose (11531436408) at next coolant flush (82141467704) next year.
- Replace leaking oil filter housing gasket (OFHG, 11421719855): Purchased BavAuto Viton version from ECS here, since BavAuto was absorbed by ECS. Will use this guide.
- Replace soft fuel lines to/from fuel filter.
- Replace differential bushings: One of them (unclear which) was found to be cracked by BMW dealership during complementary inspection. Will purchase OEM rubber parts (front: 33176770788, rear: 33176751808).
- Adjust upper (13541438761) and lower intake boots (13541438759): Replaced when installing ZHPizza's large bore throttle body, but don't seem perfectly aligned (some bend in the upper intake boot).
- Replace AC blower: Although squeaking/fluttering sound has improved, will at some point need to replace the AC blower motor
- Replace driveshaft guibo/flexdisc (26117511454) and the center support bearing (26127501257). DIY guide here.
Exterior
- Repair cracked/dying rear window gaskets using this guide
- Replace or renew fading side markers
Miscellaneous
- Replace spare tire: I believe mine is original and should be replaced (I think it is T125/80R17)
- Get alignment following Bimmerworld spherical RTAB installation (see below)***
Modifications
Suspension
- Install Bimmerworld Spherical RTABs.***
- Install 330Cic or Xi rear sway bar (33556751267) w/ correct bushings (33551096669)
Engine/drivetrain:
- Install M3 fuel baffle (16112229656)
- Install M3 motor mounts (11812283798 [2x])
- Purchase/install LSD of some sort with 3.23 or 3.38 ratio
- Purchase/install the M56 valve cover per this thread or purchase German Auto Solutions CCV Replacement Kit
- Fabricate/install custom brake duct air scoop: Using this guide
Electronics
- Recode the car as a convertible to have one touch up/down windows: Using this guide. Would also require new center console trim and window switch (61316902183)
- Install M3 gauge cluster if someone can figure out coding the shift lights for a manual, non-M car.
- Install Bavsound Stage 1 speaker kit
Interior
- Repaint the Black Cube Trim to Silver Cube trim: Using this "guide" and Precision Grey paint from Advance Auto.
- Fix lower steering wheel trim through this guy
- Install the euro tray (51167038323)
- Consider ID4Motion's digital cluster
Exterior
- Purchase/paint brake calipers black using G2 kit
- Install used OEM Shark Fin
Eh, I had trouble with MTL, so we'll see if this is any better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/min...47#descriptionQuote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I used this FEBI fluid after MTL and have had pretty good results. Not perfect in the cold but I do think its a bit better than MTL in that regard
Mileage: 86,790
Not much to report. While I was on my last vacation for the foreseeable next few years (bicycled from Siagon to Hanoi in Vietnam!), my mechanic took a look at the chirping coming from my alternator that I was concerned about the significant coolant leak splashing all over the alternator having damaged the alternator in some way. My car had been sitting for some time before he laid eyes on it, and couldn't reproduce it for several days straight so for now it's "fixed."
Since replacing the coolant system items there hasn't been any noticeable coolant leak and everything has been running well (he yells confidently over plastic rattles throughout the car). Took her for a trip down to Eugene for the marathon this past weekend without a hitch. Finish line photos show how I choose to approach life: blindly, yet confidently.
https://i.imgur.com/wJfMwNQ.jpg
Lots to do between now and when I start as an intern in June, but I am also poor. We'll see which way my heart leans
*Top gear flashbacks*Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
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I briefly thought about renting a moped in Vietnam to live out my Top Gear dream, but am thankful I opted for that option when my girlfriend and I stopped in Thailand for a few days before we flew home. Apart from Thailand apparently driving on the wrong side of the road, it was a lot less busy/hectic. Just look at this suave, self-assured, renaissance man:Quote:
Originally Posted by san
https://i.imgur.com/8fZGsqn.jpg
Cool pics. And GL with internship!
Haha, that pic is great!
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This thread should be marked NSFW for that much thigh action [emoji91][emoji91][emoji91]
Thanks! It's going to be a funky year learning not only to be a surgical intern, but I'm reapplying/pivoting to anesthesia so that'll be a nice wrinkle to the year!Quote:
Originally Posted by fredo
You know it, bbQuote:
Originally Posted by san
Pale thighs save lives (from skin cancer)Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza