William's 330Ci ZHP Maintenance and Project Thread

[san]

Interesting, just a normal ol' adjustable wrench?

Attachment 38805

And which BMW part no. did you use for the transmission fluid?

That can work yes. I think last time I undid them, a friend was just able to tighten them using an impact wrench. But the first time, I used adjustable wrench and pliers.

I unfortunately have red line right now, so I know it’s not great. I drove a friends car with OEM fluid and it was much better. I was going to try this next time-

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/75w...mw-83222339219


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[BMWCurves]

That can work yes. I think last time I undid them, a friend was just able to tighten them using an impact wrench. But the first time, I used adjustable wrench and pliers.

Lol in the LEMFÖRDER packet that it comes in, it specifically says not to use any sort of powered wrench. Love it.

Pliers? On which side? I can get the nut on fine with a socket wrench, its the back side holding the end link still that's tough.

I unfortunately have red line right now, so I know it’s not great. I drove a friends car with OEM fluid and it was much better. I was going to try this next time-

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/75w...mw-83222339219

Ah okay, so the 83222339219 stuff, 75W80 MTF-LT-2.

[t.er]

I forget, do those end links have an internal hex on the end of the ball stud? You could run it down with a regular wrench (painful) or ratcheting wrench (less painful) while using an allen key. You can still torque it up once the joint has enough friction to hold itself together.

Or yeah, use an impact on the low setting with less of a trigger finger, and you can still torque it as well

[san]

Lol in the LEMFÖRDER packet that it comes in, it specifically says not to use any sort of powered wrench. Love it.

Pliers? On which side? I can get the nut on fine with a socket wrench, its the back side holding the end link still that's tough.



Ah okay, so the 83222339219 stuff, 75W80 MTF-LT-2.

Lol ya, I think as long as you don’t damage the rubber seals, it’s fine. I used pliers to hold it from behind to stop it from spinning while I tightened it down.


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[ZHPizza]

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N52WJRT/

[BMWCurves]

Y'all out here being too smart

[sillieidiot]

Yeah, pretty much just holding that back part so it doesn't move. This one time, I just used a metal fork (like eating utensils). I just cut the 2 middle ones and bent the outsides until it could hold it. then tightened down the nut. It's not stupid if it works lol

[RUS_ZHP]

I just noticed that you're approaching 100k mark. Two more years or so?

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[BMWCurves]

Date: 02/17/22

Mileage: 86,777 miles

• I changed the differential fluid using just over 1 quart of Red Line 75W-90 GL5 (purchased two quarts). Read my old post to remind myself that it needs a 14mm hex to remove both the fill and drain plugs. The drained oil itself was dark but certainly not overly dirty so I'm happy with this 30k mile interval I have. I had previously installed crush washers on both (part no. 07119963355) but that seems to be for cars with drain/fill plugs that don't have a rubber washer built. My plan is to replace both the drain and fill plugs next time as the rubber looked a little worse for wear (part no. 33117525064). For the job I couldn't find my fluid pump but purchased this one I found on Amazon and it worked fine despite the description specifically saying it will not fit Red Line bottles. The pump can't screw down on the threads of the Red Line bottle but it functioned fine. Torqued them to 44 ft-lbs (60 Nm) per this thread that states it is from their TIS manual
• I also changed the transmission fluid. I was debating between Ravenol 75W-80 stuff per this thread, or BMW's transmission oil (83222339219), but I felt a little less comfortable with the Ravenol, and then my local BMW dealership was billing me $48/liter so I went with the two liters of Red Line D4 ATF this time around. I'd like to replace both the drain and fill plugs because they were stripping (part no. 23117531356). Per the above thread, I torqued the bolts to ~38 ft-lbs (50 nM).
• Finally I was able to connect the new LEMFÖRDER end links (31356780847) using this slim wrench. I was only able to get a torque wrench into the wheel well at the strut (48 ft-lbs per ECS Tuning's guide), but not on the sway bar so I tightened it to "won't fall off" Nm of torque.

Unfortunately, I still have chirping coming from the alternator so I would like to have that looked at, as well as the OFHG at some point, Bimmerworld spherical RTABs installed, power steering fluid flushed / checked for leak at the high pressure hose, and check the battery since the car would not turn over after only sitting for a week.

[Galapolis]

I went with the two liters of Red Line D4 ATF this time around

Hope you like not being able to put your gears in when it's cold.