That actually hurt my heart when I read it.
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Came home to find a box from ECS :applause2
Guibo, CLB, steering coupler, oil filter, bottom engine cover window door.
Now I need a friend with a lift :)
drive on over
:)
Cleaned the under-side of the car. It was pretty filthy from the OFHG leak and installed the little door that covers the oil drain bolt area. Finally get to drive it tomorrow! :roundel
Borrowed this pic from another member but this is exactly what it looks like installed.
Attachment 11202
Nice! :chuck
Replaced the old steering coupler. The old one had noticeable play in it but not as much as I thought. I guess the steering wheel amplifies it a bit. Other than that, it looks just fine and rubber doesn't seem degraded; at least on the outside. I reckon I'll take a dremel tool to it and see what rubber looks on the inside. This should serve as a good guide as to whether hammering rivets is worth while.
Also changed the oil. Fresh oem filter. Detailed the bottom of the engine, engine cover and reinforcement panel from ofhg oil. Working under the car sucks. Just sayin`
Sent from outer space...
Nice! Working under the car only sucks when don't have a lift :(
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Flying high! Center support bearing (CSB) and guibo replacement project is under way. The plan also includes AT oil change when the exhaust is off. Bit more room to work with. Word on the street, getting old AT oil on the exhaust means mean stench for days. Will top it off after exhaust is back on and car is running.
Pretty happy this is a California car. No rust to corrosion to deal with.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/03/yru4uhe4.jpg
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Front grill still not painted. :facepalm
Oh Dario is dissapointed.
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Replaced the CSB/Guibo last night. This also involved new guibo bolt self-locking nuts (x6), new butyl tape, and a new intermediate ring. The centering sleeve looked very good so I didn't replace it. Lowering the exhaust on my own was especially entertaining. Took about 6 hours overall but I did take my time with it to make sure I can put it back together correctly.
Big thanks to LivesNearCostco for his excellent DYI.
Bit of a PIA without a lift but not too bad when you have all the right tools and just enough room under the car. My friend lent me his truck-grade 4-ton stands so I could almost break dance under there (NOT!).
What was surprising is that the rubber around the bearing wasn't broken up like I've seen in other people's reports. The the movement of the drive shaft was so limited that, at first, I thought of not replacing the CSB at all. But after taking a closer look, the rubber showed cracks in the flex areas. Moreover, the bearing had about a 0.5mm play in it, which probably contributed to the mild drive-train hum while driving on a highway.
Quick video
The bearing wouldn't come off by hand so I had to cut off the housing and pull it with jaw-pullers. It popped right off then.
Pic
I pressed the new bearing on by hand about 1/4 of the way and then finished it by bolting down the front half of the shaft. Big note, make sure you have an 18mm ratcheting wrench for this. Must have!
Pic
The rest was just paranoid reassembly to make sure everything goes back the way it was. Not sure if it was needed by I aligned transmission flanges with drive shaft's to match the original relationship. The bolts between transmission and drive shaft sides were same size/grade but different cap color. So I made sure they went back where they came from.
Gave the area a bit of cleaning and put the heat shields back on.
Pic
Got my friend helping me to put the exhaust back on this evening and then will take it for a test drive. Fingers crossed, nothing will fall off or blow up. :scratchinghead
Glad you got it done. I like the Sharpie arrows!
Got the automatic transmission oil/filter/gasket changed last night with the ECS kid (Redline ATF). The sump looked normal for the mileage, no metal debris! The oil was definitely toast. Bit of a messy business but I'm glad it's done. Doing the rear diff this evening and on to the test drive. :D
Rear differential fluid change is done, which concludes the drive-train maintenance schedule. Let's hope I won't need to go back under the car for at least 40k miles. This stuff is seriously no fun at all, especially in a cramped tiny garage space. But it sure feels good to be done. It's hauling winds and pissin' rain outside so going to keep her dry and test drive in the morning. Fingers crossed, nothing blows up. :fingerscrossed:roundel:cheers
Good work! Getting some heavy rain here as well.
Went for a nice drive this morning. The difference in how transmission shifts and feels is stunning. Everything feels wonderful so far. Great note to kick off the weekend on.
Pleased to change my view from this
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/08/qebuqyvu.jpg
To this...
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/08/y8ezubyt.jpg
Now I can focus on fun stuff like putting on 10mm spacers on the rear.
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Great maintenance, Giya! You're making me look bad. :) When finals end, it'll be time to dig in as well.
Thanks Dane. I've already had set of two ready to go on. At the moment, I am undecided about the fronts as I've heard they alter handling adversely. I need to do a bit of research on that. I'll hit you up if I decide to go with it. 50/50 chance right now.
Just installed the rears and results are very satisfying. Here's a quick snap:
School takes precedence! I wrote my finals last week; that's why I've been so productive with my car. But my next class already has started so I'm glad I squeezed it all in. There is no doubt in my mind that you'll catch up on all the due diligence when your finals are over. Looking forward to following your progress.
Ignore my other post. Just saw the pics with spacers. Looks good!
Looking good Giya
Looks good!
Getting my lens restoration did--professionally. Will post results soon. And yes, I've tried the 3M kit, it sucks; at least for the face-lifted coupe headlights.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/09/e8e7a8ag.jpg
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I'm for review. I'm trying to decide if I want it done professionally or if I'm buying new lenses...
Is he going to clear coat or use film over them?
Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.
No clear film. The guy was unbelievably experienced at this. In his opinion, he highly advised against clear film, as doesn't really make a difference. According to him, it is there only because of an NTSB mandate and is a nightmare to sand-off. Mind you, maybe an aftermarket film that you can manually peel-off yourself would be a better alternative. Apparently, he's been doing this for the past 4 years and he has yet to see one of his jobs go bad. I thought that's inevitable, especially if you drive on dirty highways a lot but only time will tell. He guarantees his work for 2 years with an option of a free refinish within that time. He was at it for good 2 hours and charged me his standard rate of $60/job.
P.S. so what I got from the guy is that once the OEM clear film has been sanded-off, future re-finishes are very easy and that's when the 3M kit will actually do the job.
Here're the before and after results:
Attachment 11287
Attachment 11288
Attachment 11289
Looks Good Giya, they look like new. I bought some tinted Laminx for my headlights. They go well with the SGM and black kidney grilles. Best part is you can peel them off if needed.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/10/me3u4u6a.jpg
Ohhhhh I like!
Was it a pain to put on? or is there a trick to it?
Not bad at all.
-Clean lights
-Heat up film slightly with a hair dryer. This makes it easier to work with.
-Spray lights with water mixed with a touch of Dawn.
-Apply film and squeegee the excess water out from behind.
-Use a hair dryer to finish.
-The using an exacto knife trim any excess film.
It's just like tinting windows. I got the Laminx from ECSTuning.
Very nice Giya. The factory film is terrible :\
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Also had a chance to install the ///M strut brace off of Sean (Pip's) ride. He soon will be sporting the BMW Performance CF bar on his ///M ;)
Attachment 11292
Why did you decide to swap the BMW perf bar for the ///M bar?
Looks good. You gonna add drawp?