The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

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Originally Posted by ryankokesh

Yup!

If you use the turkey baster method seems like people recommend a quart. I used two the first time I did it to make sure everything was new.

http://www.impee.co.uk/powersteering_fluid_change.htm

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Thanks a lot Ryan!

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Originally Posted by san

Thanks a lot Ryan!

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Np, good luck!

:thumbsup

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ryankokesh

Yup!

If you use the turkey baster method seems like people recommend a quart. I used two the first time I did it to make sure everything was new.

http://www.impee.co.uk/powersteering_fluid_change.htm

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Somewhere way back when....some guy showed me to disconnect a fitting from the steering line somewhere below to drain the whole fluid system. Unfortunately, all I did that time was to just watch and no retention. I should have paid better attention then.....

I just picked my car up from an alignment and didn't notice the rest to settings until I got home. They set rear toe to 0 deg instead of .1 in. How will this effect handling and should I take it back?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ad17aab367.jpg


-Holden

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Originally Posted by hcbeck2689

I just picked my car up from an alignment and didn't notice the rest to settings until I got home. They set rear toe to 0 deg instead of .1 in. How will this effect handling and should I take it back?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ad17aab367.jpg


-Holden

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They used e36 m3 specs with 17 inch wheels on your zhp? Um...

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Originally Posted by Vas

They used e36 m3 specs with 17 inch wheels on your zhp? Um...

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Haha, no it's the m3. Regardless zero toe should effect ride the same no matter the car. Just wondering if I should have it toed in, like I originally asked them to do. All other toe and camber was done per my instruction.

Do the rear sway bar end links have the same life expectancy as the fronts?


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The rear end links are just a rubber bushing. If you look at them and they are cracked and dry rotted then I'd replace them but you wont get a knocking noise upon failure like the front ones unless the rubber falls out completely...

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Originally Posted by Sockethead

The rear end links are just a rubber bushing. If you look at them and they are cracked and dry rotted then I'd replace them but you wont get a knocking noise upon failure like the front ones unless the rubber falls out completely...

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Gotcha, thanks!

So I have these codes. P0456, P0442

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...98d88883bd.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...5c6aae5841.jpg

And found this tonight. DMTL leakage. I assume they are all related. Not sure about the implausible petrol tank level...?


http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...4670c7f43c.jpg

Think it could be the emissions diagnostics pump?